Four days in fun-filled Sydney

The entrance to Luna Park. Picture / Mark Mitchell

Displaying a mean-looking set of molars, the crocodile peered with one eye through the glass-sided enclosure. Dangling off a safety rail staring back, just centimetres away, was my 6-year-old daughter, Sarah.

Logic told me not to worry. The glass had to be croc proof or it would not be there.

Even so, I wasn't exactly relaxed, seeing her so close. The sign on a mezzanine floor above didn't help either: "DO NOT ENTER: If the fall does not kill you the crocodile will."

But I didn't have a chance to panic - Sarah soon tired of staring down the beast and ran off to look for sharks.

We were at aquarium on day one of a four-day trip to Sydney to test its qualities as a family destination.

The suggested itinerary was fantastic: Sydney Tower, aquarium, Manly Beach, kayaking in North Harbour, a coastal walk, Luna Park, Taronga Zoo, unlimited ferry and bus rides, a four-star apartment in the CBD.

But being on assignment with a 6-year-old isn't all beer and skittles. A combination of excitement over many days, a slightly delayed flight, 30C temperatures and a malfunctioning air-conditioning unit forced some strategic changes to our plans.

And, as we all know, if the magic goes wrong a tired princess can suddenly become a demon queen - and then look out. Fortunately, our apartment in Maestri Towers had an indoor swimming pool which helped.

Add a short walk and lift ride to the observation deck of the Sydney Tower, and my princess was happy.

The tower is a good start because it is easy to get a feel for the city's layout from the observation deck.

For the more ambitious, a new attraction is the Skywalk, where those with a head for heights can take a walk on an outdoor platform. Sarah wanted to know why people had to wear a special suit like a skydiver's and a safety harness, just to stand on a deck with waist-high glass barrier that looked more solid than the crocodile's tank. Wind gusts can be unpredictable at 250m above the ground.

Another tower attraction is the virtual ride, OZtrek. Sarah refused to do it that morning, but I took her back the next day and it was worth the effort. Similar to virtual rides at Te Papa, this one is a beaut, taking you through Australia's cultural history and geography.

One child sitting near me was slightly traumatised when a crocodile erupted from the water, jaws agape - but the rest of the children loved it.

From there it is a short ride on the monorail to the Sydney Aquarium.

When visiting any large city, priority for me is to conquer its public transport system. In Sydney this is easy. The State Transit Authority's Sydney Pass, available for three, five and seven days, allows you unlimited travel on its bus, train and ferry network.

Combine that with the clever See Sydney and Beyond Smart Visit Card, which offers entry to a wide range of attractions, and logistics are definitely easier for the tourist.

Having sorted the passes I could relax and pay full attention to the constant demands from the Princess.

The aquarium is a great place to visit, and I could have spent an entire day wandering around the three oceanariums identifying a staggering array of aquatic life. But little tourists are very demanding and have a short attention span.

They don't like to walk far, are always hungry or full and never in between, and always want to go to the toilet at the least-convenient times.

Spare a thought for the poor waiter at Nick's Bar and Grill, Darling Harbour, who stood for a full five minutes by my deserted garlic prawns, swatting away flies, while I stood guard outside the women's toilets.

Sydney has two major pluses. Its public toilets must be the cleanest in the world, and its waiting staff the most professional. The prawns were just fine, despite the delay, as was the peppered kangaroo. It was excellent - similar, I thought, to cervena.

The next three days were full-on. A highlight was a trip on the Bondi Explorer bus, followed by the Bondi to Bronte Cliff Walk where the annual Sculpture by the Sea exhibition was being staged.

More than 100 sculptures were displayed along the 3.5km trail, which is an easy walk, even for a youngster.

Other highlights included a boat ride around North Harbour with Manly Boat and Kayak Hire, a play on Manly Beach, some terrifying rides at Luna Park, and a day at Taronga Zoo.

That was a challenge for me as a photographer. "Dad, I didn't come to Taronga Zoo just to stand around looking at giraffes all day."

Luckily the zoo has all the amenities for children, including a 600-seat food hall, and it's only a short ferry trip across from Circular Quay.

With so many attractions so easy to reach, Sydney is a great place for a family holiday. Every time I ask Sarah about her favourite part of the trip, she has a different answer, but she certainly enjoyed it. In fact, she said she wouldn't have wanted to go home if it wasn't for the fact she missed her mum (you're coming next time, mum).

For a city of nearly 4 million, Sydney has a remarkably relaxed feel about it - similar to Auckland in layout, but easier to get around on public transport.

And friendly too. Everyone we came across took time to make sure Sarah was happy.

Like the woman at Bronte who made the best toasted sandwich possible for a fussy eater. Or the Darling Harbour waiter who ensured no spicy stuff went in her meal.

In four days we felt we only scratched the surface - seven days would really do it justice.

If you're taking the family I would recommend apartment accommodation. Ours was great, with a well-appointed kitchen, washing machine and drier. After a quick trip to the supermarket, I was able to do all breakfasts and snacks, which saved time and money.

But a word of warning. Beer is expensive in downtown Sydney. A six-pack costs anything between $14 and $18. I couldn't find a supermarket that stocked liquor, though I was told there are some in the suburbs. Wine was reasonably priced.

That sort of thing is important. After all, dads need looking after on holiday too, or they might also turn into demons.

* Mark and Sarah Mitchell were hosted by Tourism NSW.

Getting there
Air New Zealand has more than 60 flights a week to Sydney - daily from Auckland, Wellington and Christchurch from $199 one way plus taxes and levies.

Accommodation
Travel agents get the best deals for apartments. Apartment complexes include: Medina Grand Sydney, Medina Grand Harbourside, Somerset Darling Harbour and Saville 2 Bond St.

Getting around
The SydneyPass provides unlimited travel on the Sydney Explorer, Bondi Explorer, Harboursights Cruises, Sydney Ferries network and CityRail trains as well as Airport Link rail transfers. A three-day adult pass costs $114 and a seven-day pass for a family costs $426. See www.sydneypass.info (link below).
For information on Sydney transport options see the Sydney public transport website (link below).

Sightseeing
The See Sydney and Beyond Smartvisit Cards provide entrance to a wide range of attractions including Sydney Tower and OzTrek, Sydney Aquarium, the Rocks Walking Tours and Sydney Opera House Guided Tour. A two-day card costs $74 child, $135 adult. See www.seesydneycard.com (link below).