Janet and Phil stopped off for lunch and a swim near the Alkyonides Islands. Photo / Seafarer Sailing Holidays
Janet and Phil stopped off for lunch and a swim near the Alkyonides Islands. Photo / Seafarer Sailing Holidays
Nothing says “freedom” more than a DIY flotilla holiday in Greece. Janet McKeekin ditches her kids, commandeers a small boat and sets off on a whirlwind adventure with her husband.
Just as I was starting to question whether or not our first flotilla sailing holiday as a couple was a good idea, out of the blue a large pod of dolphins magically appeared on the horizon.
My fears were instantly allayed as the exhilaration of witnessing the carefree, awe-inspiring antics of these sociable creatures suppressed my novice sailor concerns.
A couple of years ago, my experienced sailor husband, Phil, and I (an absolute beginner), embarked on our first-ever flotilla, accompanied by our grown-up children.
That family break was a total success and (unexpectedly for me), one of the most memorable weeks of my life.
As both young adults were busy with various commitments last summer, Phil and I decided to go it alone and booked a week’s flotilla with Seafarer Sailing Holidays in the Gulf of Corinth.
I had initially been excited about the prospect of another Greek adventure with qualified skipper Phil, who reassured me that, if needs be, he could sail – an Elan Impression 384 – singlehandedly.
Seafarer yachts anchored peacefully in the Corinth Gulf. Photo / Seafarer Sailing Holidays
However, as our departure date drew closer, niggling doubts crept in. Last time I had, admittedly, been “the weakest link” when it came to the hands-on sailing.
Despite a pre-holiday crash course in knot-tying, I wondered whether, this time, I might have bitten off more than I could chew.
Our briefing was held at the Seafarer base in Kiato – a bustling town, nestling between the Peloponnese and mainland Greece. After meeting the lead crew, Alex and Nathan, plus the rest of the friendly flotilla gang, we all set off as a fleet for our first port of call, Antikyra.
Within minutes, a WhatsApp message revealed that dozens of dolphins were heading our way.
As these creatures ducked and dived playfully under Ageras, I was spellbound and so grateful just to be there – in the moment – humbled by the opportunity to see dolphins in this natural, beautiful and tranquil environment.
Janet at the helm of Ageras during the week’s flotilla holiday. Photo / Janet McMeekin
As they swam into the distance, I was left wondering whether a) the week could actually get any better b) if we’d peaked too soon and c) if there might be a chance to spot more dolphins.
From that moment, I began easing into my new crew role. Rather than shying away from the task of dropping the anchor (as I’d done during our previous flotilla break), I knew that this year I had to step up.
Making sure my hands and feet were nowhere near this rather vicious-looking piece of equipment, I managed. We anchored in a beautiful, secluded bay for a tasty picnic lunch.
Ageras moored at the harbour in the bustling town of Galixidi. Photo / Janet McMeekin
By the time we arrived for welcome drinks beside the lighthouse at Antikyra, I was enthusiastically swapping stories about our first day at sea with our fellow sailors.
The following day, after sailing in light winds to Galixidi – a photogenic town, boasting a striking church, pastel-coloured houses with painted shutters and vibrant bougainvillea – Phil and I hit our first challenge.
Having successfully dropped anchor just outside Galixidi, I got cold feet and suggested it might be better to moor overnight alongside the quay instead.
As Phil and Nathan radioed each other about the side-to-mooring manoeuvre, with adrenaline pumping, I found myself taking the helm and trying to recall my knot practice to help with fender duty.
Sailing towards the pretty harbour at Galixidi. Photo / Janet McMeekin
It was a relief when we finally stepped ashore to explore this picturesque town, jam-packed with fabulous independent shops, including several bakeries, and an Isle de Re vibe.
That evening, almost everyone in the flotilla signed up for Alex’s highly recommended suggestion of visiting the Unesco World Heritage Site of Delphi, which was well worth the early start.
Hopping off the yachts to explore the impressive archaeological site of Delphi. Photo / Janet McMeekin
Leaving this photogenic town the following morning, as “Captain Phil” unfurled the sails, we made our way peacefully towards the popular marina at Trizonia – the only inhabited island in the Corinthian Gulf.
Arriving in brisk winds, Nathan and Alex lent a helpful hand as we rafted up beside their yacht. Hopping across Zynobia, Phil and I ambled through the meandering lanes to explore what this pretty island had to offer.
During our stroll off the beaten track, we happened upon the Trizonia Bay Hotel. Discovering that non-residents were welcome, we spent a couple of hours enjoying a refreshing dip in the hotel’s pool, swimming in the azure waters off the nearby jetty, and sipping iced coffees under raffia parasols.
That evening during another group meal, while watching the full moon rising, we discussed our plans for the next day’s “free sailing” as Alex explained the lead boat would be leaving us.
Teaming up with two other families, we agreed that Agios Isidoros looked like a terrific spot for our fifth day of sailing.
One of the Seafarer yachts leaves Agios Isidoros early in the morning. Photo / Janet McMeekin
The next day, while sailing relatively close to Argo and Thunderbird 1, my day one wish came true as more friendly dolphins (Greece’s official national animal) put on another breathtaking show.
On our last day, Phil suggested it would be a great opportunity to completely go it alone during our first taste of bareboating.
With the wind in our sails, we headed through the Gulf of Corinth, to a tiny bay where local fishermen were enjoying a low-key barbecue lunch.
After an invigorating swim, as we returned to Kiato, I perched on the bow, drinking in the view of lush hills, dotted with eye-catching white homes topped with terracotta roofs. Pondering our week’s adventures, I wondered why I’d ever doubted our holiday would be a success.
Seafarer yachts drop anchor in the Corinth Gulf. Photo / Seafarer Sailing Holidays
When I boarded the plane back to Gatwick the next day, the lady sitting beside me mentioned she had just spent a week with her husband and teenage children sailing around the Corinth Gulf.
When she revealed that her 80-year-old mother had flown over from New Zealand to join them on their bareboat adventure, it made me think.
As our flight touched down, I vowed to take a leaf out of the sprightly octogenarian’s book, learn a few more knots, and look forward to our next adventure on the high seas.
Checklist
CORINTH, GREECE
GETTING THERE
Fly from Auckland to Athens with one stopover with Qatar Airways and Emirates. The drive time to Kiato, Corinth is about one hour 10 minutes.
The base for the Seafarer flotilla trip is at Kiato on the Gulf of Corinth.
To reach the town, travellers can drive there, or catch a train from Athens Airport to Kiato Station and jump in a taxi to the quay, where your yacht awaits.
