Floating through the Canterbury skies

Hot-air ballooning over the Canterbury plains.

Methven feels a bit like a selfish little secret, a place so special that once you discover it, you want to keep it to yourself and don't feel remotely inclined to share it.

Nestled among the checkerboard farms of the Canterbury plains and dwarfed by a picturesque snow-capped mountain range, Methven is, alas, no secret to the ski crowd. They come in droves from around the country and the world to ski the world-class alpine terrain of Mt Hutt (30 minutes from Methven township and 90 minutes from Christchurch).

But if you're a bit like me and fancy yourself as a part-time skier and full-time chalet queen, don't be dismayed. This rural village is just as much for you. The welcome mat was out.

Methven - as I discovered over a long weekend - has a little something for everyone.

There's no denying that Methven has a reputation for being a sports lovers' Mecca. You name it, you can do it, from skiing, fly fishing, golfing, jetboating, horse trekking, bungy jumping, parachuting, tramping, mountain bike riding and paragliding to hot-air ballooning.

But don't go thinking sporting finesse or skilful co-ordination is vital. Take it from me, as someone who counts running in high heels when late as their only form of exercise: anyone can partake in these activities.

Let me elaborate. You're floating gently above breath-taking scenery in a rainbow-coloured hot-air balloon with a handsome Australian pilot who skilfully lands in a friendly farmer's paddock and serves you a champagne breakfast. Sound like your tipple? Then Aoraki Balloon Safaris is for you.

Believe me, I'm the first to 'fess up to twitches of acrophobia, usually. But my nerves were washed away once I was ensconced in the wicker basket, sandwiched alongside 10 other bodies at a height of 4000 feet.

Never have I been so grateful to hear the beating hearts of complete strangers! Being huddled close together was a kind of human security blanket. Not that I needed to feel secure.

Our hot-air balloon pilot Markham Boston was perfectly capable. He has flown some high-powered people, most recently president George W Bush's friend and treasurer of the American Republican Party, Larry Reid.

If hot-air ballooning is too sedate for your kind of pace, then get your ski gear on and hit the slopes. You can drive up to Mt Hutt or hop a ride with the many buses and shuttles that leave from the various Methven resorts.

As a self-proclaimed ski bunny (ie one who has all the flash designer gear but absolutely no skiing style), I chose the lap of luxury option - helicopter.

Mt Hutt Helicopters choppered in and picked us up from our hotel, literally. The pilot landed in the snow-covered backyard of Methven Resort Hotel and delivered us to the base of the mountain after a 15-minute scenic tour of Methven. How's that for service?

Joining me in the helicopter was Mark, a middle-aged surfer giving snowboarding a whirl, and Anna, a first-time skier and long-time Cantabrian. The slopes of Mt Hutt offered something for each of us.

We rented our skis and snowboard, boots and poles on the mountain. Wise move, as the rental gear is practically brand new - though there is a premium performance range available to those who fancy splurging a bit more - and it avoids the hassle of carting the gear to and from the vehicles.

Anna hit the magic carpet beginner's area, while Mark and I tried the new high-speed 6-seater chair lift.

After a few wobbly runs, I took the plunge and booked myself in for a skiing lesson. Now as all women know, the unwritten rule when it comes to picking any one-on-one instructor is to opt for the cutest male.

As a stickler for rules, I chose Oliver Till, a 6-foot-1 blonde, blue-eyed, strapping 21-year-old uni student.

Hello, ladies, I know what you're thinking. Yes, he was an able teacher, but more importantly he was, to quote Paris Hilton, hot. I rest my case.

After a full day of intensive skiing, there's nothing more relaxing than having a Jacuzzi and a massage. Back in town, Methven Sport Massage is the place to head. It offers deep tissue, therapeutic, and a variety of Japanese massages. My half hour was utterly disappointing. Far too short for my liking. There was only one thing for it: to continue this feeling of merry bliss, I had to explore the bars of the village. For me, Methven truly shines after dark. There's a wide range of cafes, pubs and restaurants to choose from each night, catering to everyone from boisterous families to romantic couples and lonesome travellers.

If a casual have-a-pint-and-meet-the-locals place is your taste, try the aptly named Brown and Blue pubs (so identifiable, even the colour blind could spot them) that flank Main Street. Ski Time is a little harder to locate, tucked away in a quiet leafy street, but it's the place to go if you're looking for fabulous food in a family-friendly apres-ski environment. But bring your appetite: the servings are ginormous.

For the more discerning diner, the Last Post Cafe would be my pick. The restaurant was originally the Methven Post Office, though the place has been completely renovated, leaving only the schist-brick fireplace and the security vault, which now conveniently serves as a wine cellar.

Rather aptly, the night we dined there the All Blacks thrashed Australia at Jade Stadium, so it was only fitting to choose the special: wallaby medallions with kumara mash and black jus, accompanied by a Marlborough chardonnay. But for something unique, you can't go past the Bavarian Restaurant at Forest Lodge for traditional German beer, wiener schnitzel and schnapps. You'd be forgiven for thinking you'd time-warped to Oberammergau.

If you fancy some ski tips, don't embarrass yourself and bail up owner Ian Mclean. He's a ski legend. If there was a Methven hall of fame, his mug would be in pride of place.

Mclean trained both the Olympic Austrian and German women's ski teams before moving back to his native Methven and setting up home with his family.

The Americans tried to lure him away to coach theirs, but the temptation of hundreds of thousands of Greenbacks wasn't enough. He turned them down flat, twice.

I came to Methven looking for fun. I found that unequivocally and also discovered an unspoilt scenic paradise tucked away that everyone can enjoy.

NEED TO KNOW

Getting there: Air New Zealand flies daily to Christchurch. Go to www.airnewzealand.co.nz

Aoraki Balloon Safaris: Phone (03) 302 8172 (request pilot Markham Boston). www.nzballooning.com

Mt Hutt Helicopters: Phone (03) 302 8401. www.mthuttheli.co.nz
Methven Sports Massage: Phone (03) 302 8323.

The Last Post Cafe: Phone (03) 302 8259. Email lastpostcafe@ihug.co.nz

Forest Lodge and Bavarian Restaurant: Phone (03) 302 8116. Email stay@forestlodge.co.nz