Italians have long favoured Sardinia as the place for a perfect beach holiday. Photo / Getty Images
Thought you knew Italy? Tim Jepson sheds light on the lesser-known parts, and why you should visit this year
Even a country as glorious as Italy has overlooked corners – not undiscovered corners: those are few and far between – but towns, villages and landscapes that are wonderfully compelling but for whatever reason lie outside the sightseeing mainstream.
Treat our overlooked quintet as a starting point. Mantua is unmissable, but you could say the same for nearby Vicenza, Modena and Ferrara: see those as well. Ditto the Madonie mountains, Enna, or Erice if you’re already familiar with Noto and the Iblei in Sicily. Add Trevi, Norcia, Bettona and the Valnerina to your list in Umbria.
And remember, of course, that five destinations hardly scratch the surface of Italy’s overlooked gems. Swathes of southern Italy qualify, as do the hill towns of Molise, say, or the mountain enclaves of the Abruzzo east of Rome. Whole cities – notably Trieste – see a trickle of visitors compared to Florence or Milan.
Even sightseeing star turns have their unsung near neighbours. In Tuscany, for example, Lucca or Siena are close to the little-known mountains of the Orecchiella and the Etruscan heartlands of the Maremma: in the Lakes, Iseo and Orta are short drives from Garda and Maggiore. In Italy, once you start looking, the overlooked is never far away.
Southwest of Turin, pushing high into the Alps, are several hidden and half-forgotten valleys, among which the Valle Maira is the most tempting, not only for its magnificent scenery, but also for its food, lovely wooden-housed villages – don’t miss Elva – and wonderful folk and other art.
Ancient Occitan culture – and fragments of language – still prevail, not least on the old trade routes over the mountains, many of which have been linked by the Percorsi Occitani, a superb long-distance footpath, easily tackled as half- or full-day walks or bike rides.
Independent travel is easily organised – with Turin the nearest airport – and there’s plenty to occupy you for a week or more. If you prefer a package, Inntravel offers an eight-night self-guided walking trip in the valley from £1440 ($2944) per person, excluding flights.
Where to stay
On the north side of the valley, perfectly situated for exploring, is the Locanda del Silenzio (doubles from $235). On the valley’s south side, the Ceaglio from $170 per person half board), is equally appealing and well-located.
When to go
Late May to June is perfect for walking, but October, which often brings clear blue skies, is also tempting, not least for runners, who can follow, or take part in the MOT, acclaimed as Europe’s most beautiful trail-running event.
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Mantua’s lack of visitors is a mystery – no obvious airport, perhaps, or the fact that its medieval heyday was followed by centuries of obscurity. Yet it is a glorious and romantic town (and a World Heritage Site), threaded by canals, beautifully fringed by lakes, and home to two of the greatest historic sights in Europe, never mind Italy: the Palazzo Te, a Mannerist masterpiece, and the still more magnificent 1000-room Palazzo Ducale Mantova, frescoed by Mantegna and others, and the former home of Mantua’s rulers, the Gonzaga.
The town’s walled, medieval heart is also a joy, full of shady, arcaded streets, cobbled alleys, verdant gardens and plenty of excellent little restaurants.
Where to stay
Palazzo Castiglioni (doubles from $451) on Mantua’s main square for a treat or Hotel Broletto (double B&B from$173). Mantua’s nearest airport is Verona, 40 minutes by road or an hour by train.
When to go
Mantua has a rich cultural life, especially in early summer, with many outdoor concerts and other events, notably Mantova Live in July.
Umbria’s main towns – Perugia, Assisi, Spoleto and Orvieto – are well known. Less so, still, its smaller centres, of which Montefalco, on its lofty hilltop, is a perfect example. Its heart, centred on the glorious Piazza del Comune, has a medley of tiny, art-filled churches – notably Sant’Agostino and the outlying, fresco-filled Santa Illuminata. Better still it has a museum that is outstanding, even by Italy’s high standards, thanks to an exceptional fresco cycle (1452) on the Life of St Francis by the Florentine artist Benozzo Gozzoli.
Food is divine – eat at the long-established Il Coccorone – and the wine even better, for the town is home to a fine red, the unique Sagrantino, and an even better dessert wine, Sagrantino Passito. Two events in June and September devoted to the town’s wine provide the perfect excuse to visit in 2024.
Where to stay
The Palazzo Bontadosi Hotel & Spa (doubles from $329) is a beautiful Renaissance palazzo, perfectly situated on Montefalco’s main square.
When to go
September for the wine festival and spring (late April to May) for sightseeing, given that Montefalco is a perfect base for exploring Umbria’s other towns. Autumn sees truffles, porcini and other seasonal dishes in the restaurants.
Italians have long favoured Sardinia as the place for a perfect beach holiday. No wonder, for the many white-sand beaches and shallow, warm-watered turquoise seas wouldn’t be out of place in Polynesia or the Caribbean. Foreigners, though, remain largely in the dark, perhaps because the island is little documented, and despite the proliferation of low-cost flights to Alghero, Cagliari and Olbia from the UK.
You have added reason to visit in 2024 when two leading luxury hotel groups launch properties on the island: Belmond, which opens the doors of its Romazzino resort on the Costa Smeralda on May 30, and Rocco Forte Hotels, which will open Liscia di Vacca in 2024 (or early 2025), close to Porto Cervo, the most exclusive spot on the island.
Where to stay
Romazzino is already taking bookings; visit roccofortehotels.com for updates on bookings for Liscia di Vacca.
When to go
Temperatures remain conducive to a Sardinian beach holiday in June, July and September – even into October. August is busy and prices high, whether you stay at one of the new hotels or one of the many smaller beach resorts around the island.
The Monti Iblei is a region of high, hilly country in Sicily’s south-eastern corner. As in much of Sicily, the scenery alone would merit a visit – there’s plenty of hiking and biking – but this superb little enclave also boasts a trio of fine historic hill towns, Ragusa, Noto and Modica, distinguished by their exceptional Baroque architecture and, increasingly, a reputation for outstanding food and wine.
A slow, scenic train is a wonderful way to get between the towns and to visit Siracusa, already well-known for its Roman and Greek remains. Don’t overlook smaller villages such as Scicli and Vizzini, nor Neolithic sites such as Pantalica and several sleepy seaside villages such as Pozzallo and Sampieri, which have fine, unspoiled beaches.
Where to stay
Noto’s Q92 (doubles from $529) and the Locanda Don Serafino (doubles from $267) in Ragusa. More reasonable are Novecento (doubles from $138) in Scicli; Palazzo Failla (doubles from $196) in Modica; and Masseria degli Ulivi (doubles from $181) outside Noto.
When to go
Peg your visit to one or more of the region’s many festivals and events but especially the July food festival. Aim for spring for manageable sightseeing temperatures, especially around Easter (Pasqua), when many towns have spectacular traditional processions.
GETTING THERE
Emirates, Qatar Airways, Singapore Airlines and American Airlines all fly from Auckland to Rome’s international Leonardo da Vinci–Fiumicino Airport with one stopover.
DETAILS
- This story originally appeared in The Daily Telegraph UK
Credit: © Tim Jepson / Telegraph Media Group Limited 2023
When there's nothing as far as the eye can see, you may appreciate the company.