Luxmore Hut on the Kepler Track, which is reached by helicopter on a guided tour with Trips and Tramps. Photo / Supplied
There's always more than one way to do something, it all depends what you want to do, writes Jim Kayes
Many years ago, on our honeymoon, my wife and I had a bit of a disagreement somewhere along the Dart River.
It was all my fault. We were in these inflatable kayaks and I was trying to show off.
I fancied myself as a kayaker and, rather than share the duties as the guide had so helpfully said we must do, I was trying to steer and provide the grunt. But she was meant to be steering.
It meant that rather than being the best of the group, we were easily the worst and it was a disaster of a morning.
Sometimes the alpha dog is better off back in the pack.
The following day was better as we were driven to the top of one Queenstown's surrounding hills, cycled down, and were driven back up. Several times. Now that is the way to do mountain biking.
I thought back to the convenience of this as we flew to Luxmore Hut overlooking Lake Te Anau, on the first day of Trips and Tramps' three day Great Walks package. The tour would give us the chance to take on sections of three Great Walks - the Kepler, Milford and Routeburn tracks - a great option for the time-poor or those not up for doing the full distance.
Normally it's a decent walk to get to Luxmore Hut, the 14km starting out on a flat path but then zigzagging its way up the mountain. Flying there felt like a treat, like being driven up those Queenstown mountain ranges 22 years ago.
There was some effort involved, however. We hiked the remaining 4km to the peak and then all the way back down to Brod Bay, where we caught a water taxi back to Te Anau township.
GUIDED TRIPS aren't for everyone. About 40 of the 90 trampers who hit the Milford Track each day are independent and stay in DoC huts. The other 50 walk with a light tread (they have to carry only a day pack) and stay in luxurious huts with hot showers, en suite rooms and all meals catered for them.
On a tour with Trips and Tramps, lunch is provided but the real feast is the knowledge of the guides.
Geoff, our guide, was with us all three days and, as the best guides do, combined knowledge and advice with banter and jokes.
"The kea has the intelligence of a 4-year-old, " he said, as one pecked at our bags and shoes at the Luxmore Hut. "Which means two years ago, a kea could've been President of the United States."
Over the three days, Geoff's information on the region's plants, insects and birds was incredible and made our hikes so much more enjoyable.
On day two, we drove the Milford Road - ranked in the Top 10 drives around the world, Geoff told us - for a 5km hike on the Milford Track to look at a waterfall at Giants Gate Bridge.
Fiordland is known for its rainfall. The 1.2 million hectares of national park (so big, all of the others in NZ can just about squeeze into it) has an average of about 7m a year but can see up to 10m. That's more than the Amazon. If the area goes without proper rain for a few days, the locals call it a drought.
Our three days on the trails were part of a dry stretch that went on beyond a week and we were told it meant the waterfalls weren't at their best. Well, they were still spectacular, from land and from sea. We spent a few hours later that afternoon cruising on the majestic Milford Sound, a relaxing and enjoyable way to round out the day.
We got to experience the Routeburn Track on day three, taking a relatively easy zigzag walk to Key Summit where we found spectacular views on a hot and windless plateau.
We returned to Te Anau each night, where we stayed at Fiordland Lodge (fiordlandlodge.co.nz) - a gorgeous place with stunning views. But what makes it so good is the people - those who work there, who are superb, but also those you bump into.
With a big lounge next to the dining room, it's the perfect spot for a pre-dinner drink and a chat with other guests about your day and theirs. These mini experiences can add so much to a holiday.
As well as Fiordland Lodge, we spent two nights at the Cinema Suites (thecinemasuites.co.nz) which, as the name suggests, is above the Te Anau movie theatre. Its history involves a classic Kiwi story.
Helicopter pilot Kim Hollows began his working life aged 15. He started out gutting deer, then moved to the shooter's seat in the choppers during the deer culls and, as soon as he was old enough, became a pilot.
His decades of skill and experience were put to good use when he conceived and helped film The Deer Wars and the stunningly beautiful Ata Whenua. Both are about 30 minutes long and well worth watching.
Having made the films, Hollows realised Te Anau needed a movie theatre, so he built one. He likes a beer, so he added a bar and made his own beers, and added the large, plush and well-appointed suite upstairs.
It is an ideal place to stay for a night or two, especially as it provides convenient access to Te Anau's restaurants - Red Cliff Cafe and The Fat Duck are both excellent value. For quick takeaway food, Boa Now is a must-do.
Other things on the must-do list include a trip on the Faith, a wooden motor sailboat with a rich history (fiordlandhistoriccruises.co.nz). It's a peaceful way to end the day and - after three days of walking - you get to sit down.
If you are after a thrill, there's jet boating too - and, well ... as we sat, having a beer with Kim Hollows after watching his movie, another fella joined us.
It was a brief chat. Turns out he rents out kayaks.
DETAILS
Trips and Tramps three-day Fiordland Great Walks package starts from $1175pp ($1025 per child). Price includes three guided hikes (3.5 to 6hrs each day), a helicopter flight, and Milford Sound cruise. tripsandtramps.com
For more travel inspiration, go to newzealand.com/nz.
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