5-star luxury and tradition sit superbly together, writes Sarah Thornton
I think I've found out what the overused term "barefoot luxury" actually means. And I discovered it in a place called Kokomo, a new private island resort in Fiji.
Kokomo sits on the edge of the Kadavu archipelago, cocooned by the Great Astrolabe Reef, one of the largest reefs in the world. This luxurious resort opened in April this year, the passion project of Australian property magnate Lang Walker. If you're wondering about the name, some say Kokomo was named after Walker's mother's favourite Beach Boys song and some say it was named after his first rowboat — the jury's still out.
Getting to Kokomo is an adventure in itself. After the short plane trip from Auckland to Nadi, I board a private helicopter for the 45-minute trip to the island, flying along Fiji's spectacular Coral Coast in all its sapphire-coloured splendour. Aussie pilot Brian makes the trip enjoyable with his witty banter, putting even the most nervous of fliers (me) at ease.
From the minute I arrive at Kokomo I know I'm in for something quite special, made more so by the greeting song from the staff in full voice.
Kokomo has 21 beachside villas and five hilltop residences spread over its 57ha. The resort is still a work in progress, with a 150-strong construction team on site. Kokomo's 242 staff, mostly Fijian locals, are on hand to look after guests, a ratio ensuring your every desire is catered to.
There is a lovely mix of Fijian culture and five-star luxury. The villas and residences are all different in layout, but are designed with the same approach and palette — soft, neutral colours that don't compete with the stunning views and surroundings.
I'm taken by golf cart down lush pathways to my beachfront villa, complete with private infinity pool and walled garden. The interior is contemporary and luxurious; there are big soft couches to sink into, huge baths to soak in and day beds to curl up on. Authentic Fijian touches are everywhere — shell mobiles sway from coconut palms, sculptures adorn walls and floors and the gardens have been carefully designed for sight and sense — these are relaxed spaces you feel totally at ease walking into with sand on your feet.
I meet Martin and Lynn, a Swedish couple who are, respectively, Kokomo's general and marketing/sales manager. We tour the residences, which are larger than the villas, with huge open-plan spaces and infinity pools that hang over the rainforest's canopy.
Australian artist Chris Kenyon was commissioned to produce paintings to adorn Kokomo's interiors. Staying on the island for a year, he produced 242 beautiful abstract works including a mural in the Beach Shack restaurant which is definitely worth checking out, as is the magnificent cinnamon tree table sourced from a neighbouring island owned by Mel Gibson.
Kokomo Private Island, Fiji.
Kokomo already has a reputation for fine cuisine and there is a multitude of eating options, including three restaurants and poolside, beachfront or in-villa dining.
I join Martin and Lynn at the Beach Shack for a degustation dinner prepared by head chef and Australian export, Anthony Healy. We eat local prawns, reef fish curry, wagyu and one of the best kokoda I've ever tasted, all accompanied by a Craggy Range pinot noir. I discover soursop — a prickly green tropical fruit that tastes sweet but with a hint of citrus and it's delicious. The menu changes daily depending on the fishermen's catch and what the gardens offer. There are no set rules around eating — if you fancy a dish and Anthony has the ingredients, he'll make it.
The next night I dine at Walker D'Plank with two new friends I've made during my stay. It's a small, informal beachside dining space headed by chef Caroline, specialising in Asian flavours and Fijian curries. Caroline asks us what we'd like — there are no menus. We opt for a curry degustation and it is fantastic.
Sustainability is an important part of Kokomo's ethos. Chef Anthony takes me on a tour of his kitchen garden, which has every type of vegetable, herb and fruit you can imagine growing on its terraces, including a vanilla plantation. Thatched bures shelter seed-raising beds and there's a new henhouse to accommodate Kokomo's 200 chickens.
Growing their own produce complements the sustainably sourced fish, shellfish and meats.
While the food is extraordinary, it's the water surrounding the island I think defines the Kokomo experience. Designed for every level of water confidence and ability, there are more water toys than you can shake a ski at. Kokomo owns its own transport — a fleet of private aircraft and boats — important to Walker, who didn't want guests at the mercy of third party suppliers dictating activity times.
For the adventurous, Kokomo is a PADI five-star dive resort and although I didn't don any scuba gear, apparently the diving is spectacular.
I choose to go fishing, and leave early in the morning with my guides Wanga and Bill. I catch three, but Wanga is disappointed I didn't snare the big ones — there's plenty of marlin and tuna out there, he tells me. The boys regale me with stories of the islands, interspersed with offering picnic delights as we tour around the Astrolabe's atolls.
The next day Bill takes me snorkelling off the beach, where I get to explore strange underwater coral structures and make friends with fish of every shape and psychedelic colour who call these crystal waters home.
After so much aquatic activity, I opt to unwind with a full body Himalayan salt rub at the island's Yaukuve Spa. It's a quiet, refined spa offering restorative and invigorating traditional therapies and beauty treatments. As someone who has had many spa treatments, this is up there with the best.
Kokomo Private Island, Fiji.
Kokomo Must Dos
For the adults
• Snorkelling around the magnificent reefs and islands. • A guided walk up to an impressive waterfall. • Kayaking — watch for dolphins and whales. • Spotting a manta ray or turtle. • A helicopter trip with pilot Brian — he's a legend. • Fishing with Bill and Wanga • A full body salt rub or massage • The cocktail of the day created by the mixologists at the Beach Shack • Breakfast served to you on the beach • Dinner in your villa with your private chef • Ask the chef to prepare you a Fijian curry
For the kids
Kokomo understands what families need and caters for children of all ages in style. There are several different age-appropriate kids' clubs, all with dedicated nannies. There's a huge pool area complete with its own bakery and wood-fired pizza restaurant.
• Adventure playground, pirate style. • Movies on the beach • Treasure hunts • Coral paintings and Fijian craft • Nature walks • Snorkelling and swimming • Crab hunting • Kayaking • Swimming with manta rays • Dolphin safari • Sailing • Tennis
IF YOU GO
Staying there: Nightly rates for Beachfront Villas (2-6 guests) start from $US1995 (NZ$2757) per villa, Hilltop Residences (6-12 guests) from US$6950 per residence, and Luxury Beachfront Villa (12 guests) from US$18,000.
Exclusive use of Kokomo — all 64 bedrooms for 100 or so of your closest friends — starts from US$120,000 per night. Rates include all meals (breakfast, lunch, dinner and snacks), non-alcoholic beverages, private infinity pool, all non-motorised and some motorised water activities, a nanny service and access to the gym and kids clubs.
Kokomo Private Island, Fiji.
Each booking also receives an introductory spa and dive voucher per villa or residence. A butler service is also included in the Residence rate.
