Fiji: Find 'me' time on a deserted island

Junior warriors on Makogai island, Fiji. Photo / Deborah Dickson-Smith

Remote islands offers chances to share the love, writes Deborah Dickson-Smith.

So, this is what it's really like to be on a deserted island. The ocean gently lapping at my toes as I gaze out over an infinite expanse of ocean meeting the pale blue sky at some distant unbroken horizon. I can hear waves rippling as they meet the sandy shore, a few sea birds calling out to each other, and far in the distance, the kids, splashing about in the water, happily being supervised by somebody else.

This particular deserted island is called Wailagilili, in Fiji's Lau Group, a chain of islands that arcs from Taveuni in Fiji's north, down to the east of Kadavu in the far south. I'm here with Captain Cook Cruises Fiji - who visit these islands four times a year.

There are a dozen or so islands in the chain, some completely uninhabited, others home to a single village. Although some shore excursions are an opportunity to meet the locals who live in this remote archipelago, this afternoon's excursion is more about enjoying the serenity of an uninhabited island surrounded by white sandy beaches and a turquoise lagoon.

To my left a beach fringed with coconut trees stretches out of sight and to my right, a rocky coastline entices some snorkellers into the turquoise waters. A couple of young kids are playing on the shoreline with their Fijian nannies and some older kids are trying to see how many of them will fit on a paddleboard without it tipping over. As they play, a bird sweeps down a few times and tries to join in the fun. I'm simply enjoying being here.

That's the beauty of small ship cruising. As there are fewer than 100 people on board, your fellow passengers easily melt away on the island so everybody can enjoy their space - their "me" time.

On village visits too, the guests disappear in ones and twos for a tour of the school, or the gardens or even villagers' homes.

Village visits in this remote location are a real treat. The locals see so few outsiders they're almost overjoyed to have guests. When we first arrive, however, there is a shy awkwardness but it melts away quickly as the kids all go and dance to Fijian music, then chase each other through the surf.

We hand out some second-hand clothes and a few school things, almost embarrassed that we brought so little, but the kids are grateful and immediately don their new clothes and parade around as if it's Christmas Day.

We're here to see both the people and the places in this remote part of the world, and every day has a shore excursion of one kind or another: a Meke dance performance of school-age warriors with spears, a school visit, a church service or a traditional Lovo feast. The church service on the island of Oneata is particularly special - these people can really sing.

We spend just four hours at one village, a play on the beach followed by a Lovo and Meke performance, yet when we leave it's like parting from old friends with hugs and even tears.

Captain Cook Cruise in Fiji. Photo / Deborah Dickson-Smith

One excursion takes us through a stunning lagoon with odd mushroom-shaped limestone columns bedecked with greenery and a few coconut trees, others to visit hidden beaches and caves on uninhabited islands.

Each day the glass-bottom boat heads out for yet another pristine coral reef. They needn't have bothered with the glass bottom boat as no one looks through the glass - every last man, woman and child dons a mask and snorkel and enjoys the more immersive experience of being in there on the reef with the shoals of tiny colourful fish.

And there's always something happening back on the ship without it seeming busy: a Fijian fashion parade (a lesson in Fijian history), a movie under the stars, hermit crab racing and a kava bowl in some corner or another.

But right now, I'm drinking in the vast expanse of tranquillity of this deserted beach, hoping to store a piece of it in a corner of my mind - somewhere to escape to on a rainy day back at home.

FACT BOX

The next two departures for the Lau and Kadavu Cruise with Captain Cook Cruises Fiji are November 7 and March 6. Visit captaincookcruisesfiji.com for more information.