Favourites irresistible when Coronet Peak calls

CATH GILMOUR finds that her favourite skifields are better than ever and that Queenstown is bustling with things to do.

Exchange Drop, Million Dollar, Greengates, Ego Alley - memories of childhood remain my passion today.

We should soon be out there, schussing down Coronet Peak's big runs and enjoying Central's vibrant blue sky and crisp clear air - then relaxing with coffee on the deck with friends and basking in the excited ambience that is part of skiing's buzz.

Research shows that for Australians, Queenstown is synonymous with skiing.

Coronet Peak is its oldest attraction. Facing south, its wide faces retain their snow for many months though it basks in the sun from August. The Remarkables field, on the back side of the famous range that is the backdrop for Lake Wakatipu, gives skiers a north-facing sunbathe for a slightly shorter season.

Wanaka's Cardrona and Treble Cone fields and the cross-country skiing resort of Waiorau are also within easy range of Queenstown.

Visitors are spoilt for choice with accommodation, restaurants and apres-ski entertainment to suit every pocket and style.

Queenstown's two fields have different characters, partly inherent and partly created by nzski.com, as the former Mt Cook company now calls itself.

Remarkables, which usually opens late this month, is a family field. Kids aged to 10 ski free. The groomed runs are great for kids up to intermediate level and there's a snow-tubing park. Festivals during school holidays offer lots of free fun.

Remarkables also has a great range of off-piste, extreme skiing and snowboarding with Escalator, Elevator and Alta Chutes providing steep thrills and Homeward Bound a favourite for cruiser off-pisters. The lifts do much of the hard work but the need to climb or ski-tour makes sure bunnies don't stray here.

Coronet Peak started marketing itself last year as the "chardonnay and jazz field," with live jazz on Sundays and a cafe feel on the sun-soaked deck. Those diversions certainly work but the skiing is even better bait.

Coronet's broad face offers something for everyone. Smoothly groomed M1 for those who like their slope gentle, sure and wide enough to easily turn, Million Dollar for the next step up and Rocky Gully for those who like it a little rustic.

Then there's Back Bowls for those wanting it wild. Hidden gullies, favoured spots of track-making locals, leap out now and then to remind you that not all is as open as it may seem.

Extensive snow-making means that even in leaner snow years there's plenty of terrain to choose from.

Both skifields offer full services - terrain park, rental, repair shop, gear shop, ski and snowboarding schools, cafe, commonroom and deck, creche, kids' attractions, gear storage, first aid and medical help.

Both offer live entertainment on the deck at times during the season.

Coronet Peak, which has a licensed brasserie and bar, has night skiing on Fridays and Saturdays from July to September, depending on conditions. Full-moon nights are best but new-moon darkness offers challenging fun if you duck out of the lights' direct reach.

The skifield tries to cater for snowboarders while not antagonising its traditional market. Coronet has two half-pipes carved by a revolutionary half-pipe shaper developed by head groomer Garry Steedman. In September, for the first time in the 10 years they've been running, the national boarding champs will be held at Coronet instead of Cardrona.

That will be near the end of Coronet's events calendar this season. It starts with the Queenstown Winter from July 15 to 23. Events include fireworks, ice sculpting, suitcase races and a charity endurance race for international teams.

International and master skiers race throughout August and there's a mid-winter festival from August 25 to 28 complete with Santa, carols and Christmas fare. The Peak to Porridge event is on September 23.

The Remarkables holds big family weekends on August 5 and 6 and September 2 and 3, free skiing champs on August 20 and 21 and a mid-winter festival in late August. A spring carnival from September 15 to 17 emphasises fun for families.

Both skifields are less than an hour's drive from downtown Queenstown. It's only half an hour up a sealed road to Coronet and 45 minutes up a gravel road for the Remarkables.