Far northern exposure

Below us the track dropped steeply into the orange ooze. Getting across meant staying in the four-wheel-drive Landcruiser - and a chance of becoming an unwilling volunteer. If the Landcruiser got stuck someone would have to climb out and attach a towline in the knee-deep mud.

The alternative was walking upriver and crossing at the rocky almost-dry waterfall and watching someone else attach the towline.

Like most waterways in north Queensland, this one had a sign on the riverbank: "Warning, estuarine crocodiles inhabit this river!" It was fresh water - but we weren't taking any chances with a crocodile's understanding of the salinity. We headed rapidly across the dry rocks above the waterfall - and watched the action on the bank high above the creek.

The first vehicle powered through the mud, trailer and all. If the second got stuck, it would be winched through. It slid down into the mud and revved up, slipping and sliding, but somehow made it safely up the other side too.

River crossings like this one at Palm Creek were part of an overland trip from Cairns to Cape York in Australia's far north. Starting from Cairns we climbed the steep road through the rainforest to Kuranda and across the Atherton Tablelands.

The dense undergrowth of the Great Dividing Range changed to sparse gum trees and termite mounds as we headed inland. Around us, bushfires and burnoffs created a hazy, almost unreal effect as we headed for the first night's camp at Cooktown.

Only a few coats of fresh paint separated some of Cooktown's buildings from the goldrush and pearl-diving eras they were built in. The town's museum offered a further insight into its past, and the hill above the town gave a view over the Endeavour River and our campsite not far from its banks.

Camping in northern Australia brought thoughts of sharing the tent with some of the less desirable wildlife. We had totally enclosed tents that were designed to keep out everything, including snakes, and the campsite was far enough from the river not to have to test its crocodile-proof qualities.

From Cooktown the corrugated red dirt road wound its way through bush towards Laura, an abandoned cattle station built in the 1880s at the entrance to Lakefield National Park.

The roadsides were dominated by termite mounds. The larger cathedral mounds were shaped as the name suggests, while magnetic or tombstone mounds had sharp peaks and pointed directly north-south.

Occasionally a snake or wallaby crossed the road in front of us, while white cockatoos screeched above and smaller parakeets moved past in flocks, rainbow lorikeets the prettiest and loudest.

At the Musgrave Telegraph Station we watched the sun set in a red haze of dust and smoke. Blue-winged kookaburras announced sunrise, accompanied by a thousand galahs, rose-breasted cockatoos, that made themselves at home in the trees nearby.

At a ford we followed the riverbank to a vantage point. Several crocodiles lazed on the sandbanks below, but rather than the 6m monsters we had imagined, these were non-man-eating freshwater crocodiles a third of that size. Apart from one opening its mouth and the occasional blink of an eye, they didn't move.

Our white Landcruisers were a dull red by the time we arrived in the mining town of Weipa. We joined a bus tour to view one of the largest bauxite mines in the world. Hard hats and safety glasses were mandatory as we watched huge scrapers loading 150-tonne trucks with orange ore.

The ore was to be shipped to smelters, eventually becoming shiny aluminium cans like those we opened regularly to replace fluids lost in the tropical heat.

It wasn't just river crossings that caused stoppages. The trees that lined the road were referred to as "iron wood" and more than once a fallen branch penetrated a tyre.

These impromptu stops gave us more insight into the wildlife as we shared the roadside with tiny frogs and lizards. We could only guess at the origin of the animal tracks that crossed the dusty road.

The Twin Falls near the junction of the Cannal and Eliot Rivers offered a safe place to swim and a chance to wash off the dust.

There were crocodile warning signs but we had assurances that the crocs couldn't climb. The river cascaded down a series of waterfalls, flowing through tree-lined, red ironstone rocks under a brilliant blue sky.

A dark shape moved in the water - causing our rapid retreat from the river. It was a large water monitor lizard or goanna, climbing out to warm itself on the sand.

At daybreak the mist hung over the river and waterfalls, as the vocal kookaburras enticed the other campers to get up and share the start to the day.

Our next crossing at the Jardine River was too deep to drive through and the only way across was by ferry. Between trips the ferry driver fished, not far from the crocodile warning signs.

"Any crocs around here?" we asked.

"Plenty in the Jardine," he replied. "On sunny days they stay in the water - probably won't see them today."

He was right ... but how many of the river's long scaly inhabitants had watched us?

The last few kilometres to Australia's northernmost point were on foot, along a sandy beach to the rocky headland that looks out over Torres Strait. We opened a bottle of champagne to celebrate reaching Cape York.

Our final campsite was at Seisia, just south of Cape York, where another white sandy beach looked inviting for a swim. But we passed a memorial to someone who hadn't heeded the crocodile warning signs, and yet again decided to forgo a swim.

At dusk the sun dropped as a bright red orb into a grey blanket on the horizon. All around the bird life continued - doves dust-bathed on the ground, pelicans drifted near the wharf, and parrots squawked above us as they raced through the gum trees.

We opted for the spectacular, one-hour flight back to Cairns above the red dust, corrugations and smoke of one of the most interesting, yet largely unknown parts of Australia.

* Tony and Jenny Enderby travelled with Cape York Adventure Safaris, now called Exploring Oz, and paid their own way.

When to go:

Best time to travel to Cape York is during the dry season from June to October. In the wet season the road is impassable. A four-wheel-drive vehicle is recommended and a good knowledge of the area is required as there are few road signs. Most hire cars are not permitted beyond Cooktown.

What it costs:

Return tours with Exploring Oz vary from four to 12 days, travelling by 4 x 4 vehicle from Cairns to Cape York. Return is by vehicle, plane or a two-night cruise along the Great Barrier Reef. Prices start from A$699 ($793) for a six-day overland trip to A$1899 ($2155) for an 11-day trip with return by boat. Seniors receive A$50 ($57) discount. Second or subsequent travellers with the company receive A$100 ($113) discount. Included in the price are all meals, coffee and billy tea, all camping equipment and national park and camping fees. Not included: Cooktown Museum entry, Weipa mining tour, ferry to Thursday Island.

The journey:

The shortest road distance from Cairns to Cape York is 952km, but side-trips to Cooktown, Weipa and the national parks are recommended. Best way to return to Cairns is by plane, or boat along the Barrier Reef. Most organised tours give you the choice.

What to take:

Casual clothes including something for cooler nights (tracksuit etc). Walking shoes, swimwear, towel, toiletries, sunglasses, hat, insect repellent, sunscreen, torch, camera and plenty of film. Space is limited to one small soft bag or small backpack plus one piece of hand luggage. They'll find room for guitar, fishing rod, tripod etc.

Temperature

Daytime winter temperatures average around 30C but take a warm top for cooler nights.

Options:

There are many tour operators in Cairns, offering four-wheel-drive trips from six to 16 days. Tents, sleeping bags, food, camping fees and return transport is usually included. For more information contact your travel agent or Tourism Queensland.

www.exploring-oz.com.au