A trip to the 'winterless north' is not over until the kiwi sings, finds Helen van Berkel.
Our guide, Peter Clark of the Hokianga Express, insisted the best way to enjoy surfing the giant dunes on the shores of Hokianga Harbour was to skid down the sand and keep skating out on to the water. But, on this cloudy afternoon, we'd neglected to bring our togs, meaning it was do it in our underwear or not at all.
Yes, skittering across the harbour on a boogey board was huge fun - the wet underwear afterwards was not. Luckily, there is plenty to see in this lush, sub-tropical part of New Zealand to keep our minds off our sandy, damp nether regions.
Our next stop was the mighty kauri twins Tane Mahuta and Tane Matua Ngahere (by turns, the largest and oldest living kauri trees) nestled in the Waipoua Forest. The trees are an awe-inspiring reminder of New Zealand's pre-settlement, wilderness past - and the best time to visit them is at night.
We entered the forest as dusk settled, accompanied by local guides, Tuwhare and Bill from Footprints Waipoua, both a fount of bushlore and Maori mythology, who led us along the easy paths and boardwalks.