Far from madding crowds in Hawkes Bay

By GERALDINE McMANUS

A New Zealand country home: the tales it could tell of simple domesticity, of lavish entertainment, of croquet on the lawn and of a thousand things the world today has forgotten in its mad, material rush.

Driving down the long, tree-lined avenue and unsealed driveway to Hawthorne Country House brought back a rush of childhood farm-holiday recollections. Wrapped in the enveloping comfort of Hawthorne, one of Hawkes Bay's guest-house villas, memories come flooding back: the clatter of footsteps down the long, wooden hallway, warm and inviting rooms, crisp cotton bed-linen and windows thrown open wide to country sounds and smells.

As a child I spent my summer holidays at an aunt's villa in the farmlands of fertile Feilding. Staying at Hawthorne recalled these, adding another layer of contentment and relaxation.

From Auckland it's just an hour's flight to Hawkes Bay; driving takes five hours. The straight stretches of the Napier-Taupo highway edged by pine forests signal the destination is an hour or more away. Driving down out of the ranges, you see the first vineyards of Hawkes Bay at Esk Valley. To set the mood for the weekend allow time to get to Esk Valley Winery before the cellar door closes.

Hawthorne Country House is about five minutes' drive from the centre of Hastings. A sign hangs beneath large trees beckoning travellers in style.

The villa is hardly visible from the road - instead the first image is the impressive avenue of towering, 95-year-old trees. The large, single-storey home nestles in a leafy garden, framed by mature trees and surrounded by spacious lawn. Fields surround the garden, with horses, sheep and cattle grazing. Several hawthorne trees are on the property.

The house is a gracious Edwardian villa, rich in the elegance of a bygone era. Hawthorne has always been a family home in the country and still has that ambience - oozing relaxation and comfort. I wouldn't have been surprised to find gumboots and oilskin coats outside the back door - but Hawthorne's new life is welcoming laughter and the constant hum of guests arriving and departing.

I mentally compared my experience of a country B&B in the Lake District of England. My birthday treat, the B&B was selected for its garden and olde worlde appeal. We took a tray of afternoon tea into the wild, flowery garden on a lazy summer afternoon. So too, at Hawthorne, tea and home-made biscuits on the verandah or seats under the shady trees are a part of the welcoming hospitality and friendly service.

At Hawthorne the quality and style are spacious, beds and duvets chosen for supreme comfort. Our English B&B room was much smaller, more quaint, and the decor decidedly flowery and old-fashioned.

Each of the Hawthorne rooms opens on to the deep verandas leading directly into the garden. Croquet hoops are set out and a version of petanque is laid out to lead players around the garden.

Days at Hawthorne begin with a delicious country breakfast using fresh local products with the added delight of fresh eggs from the property, home-made muffins and yoghurt. Breakfast includes three selections of cereal, fresh seasonal fruit stewed or fruit salad, home-made yoghurt, eggs any way, mushrooms, bacon and tomatoes with basil.

Produce from Hawkes Bay is a specialty, including Holly Bacon and freshly roasted Hawthorne coffee. Previous hosts Jeanette and Peter Kelly started a coffee roastery at Hawthorne. Now their roastery is in Havelock North.

Personable hosting is part of the charm of staying at a bed and breakfast and host Susan Brook adds her own personality to the welcome.

"I have stayed at a lot of B&Bs over the years and knew what I wanted to create," she said. "I have always wanted to run a B&B and when this opportunity arose I packed up and - 108 boxes later - I arrived. I am so glad I took the rather large step as I love every minute of it. I just love looking after people."

On waking on my first morning I couldn't resist a walk while other guests slept on. I carefully crossed the grass down the avenue of trees to the gate. The tall and ghostly trees against the early-morning sky cast long shadows across the fields.

Hawkes Bay is the land of food and wine.

The fresh green of early summer clothed the vines and roses bloomed prolifically at the end of each row.

On Saturday we followed a wine trail before returning to Hawthorne to dress for dinner and a night out at Sileni Estates. Sunday called for a lazy country breakfast around the dining table - then back to Auckland in the afternoon. Well replete.

* Geraldine McManus paid to stay at the Hawthorne Country House.

Hawthorne

Hawke's Bay