There is a corner of the South Atlantic that is for ever British, probably, writes Pamela Wade.
First off, it's not "Port Stanley". Although we heard that name so often on the news back in 1982, Stanley is what the locals call the capital of the Falkland Islands. And while we're at it, they don't pussyfoot around there calling it the "Falklands Conflict" either — everyone who witnessed the fighting during those 10 weeks of turmoil is in no doubt that it was a war.
Certainly, in the well-presented museum in the town's old dockyard, the video testimony of a number of Falklanders, who were children at the time, about their experiences during the Argentine invasion and occupation makes for grim viewing. Bombs and burnt-out buildings, evictions from their homes, soldiers marching in the streets, aircraft overhead — it was a terrifying time, and still a vivid memory for all who lived through it. So much so that, in the 2013 referendum on remaining a British Overseas Territory, 92 per cent of the electorate turned out, and 99.8 per cent voted Yes. (The three people who voted No are still a matter of local speculation.)
Just along the waterfront from the museum is the Liberation Memorial, an obelisk commemorating the British forces and units involved in the fighting. Listed is the Rangatira, a former Picton-to-Lyttelton ferry which served as an accommodation ship in Stanley Harbour. Alongside the memorial is a bust of Margaret Thatcher, gazing steadfastly out to sea, above a quote stating the Falklanders' right "to declare their own allegiance". It's still an active issue, with Argentina maintaining its sovereignty over the islands: on the mainland, Ushuaia (southernmost city in the world) is full of signs proclaiming it to be the capital of Las Malvinas; while posters near Stanley museum demand "Argentina gives up its claim to our islands".
Meantime, Stanley life continues more British than Britain, with red-painted telephone boxes and pillar letterboxes (my postcard got home in just three weeks), terraced houses that look lifted straight from Southport, and pubs serving warm beer and hot curries.