Kittawa Lodge sits on King Island’s rugged southwestern coast. Photo / Emilie Ristevski
Kittawa Lodge sits on King Island’s rugged southwestern coast. Photo / Emilie Ristevski
A remote traffic light-free haven off the northwestern tip of Tasmania, little-known King Island combines world-class golf courses, seafaring history, beachcombing and culinary prowess, writes Brett Atkinson.
What to see
Located in the capricious waters of Bass Strait, it’s reckoned more than 60 shipwrecks ring King Island with a total loss of over 2000 lives. Explore the excellent King Island Museum to learn about this tragic maritime history including the 1845 foundering of the Cataraqui, a ship carrying colonial settlers from Liverpool. More than 400 people died and it’s still Australia’s worst civil maritime disaster. Including the Cape Wickham lighthouse, the King Island Maritime Trail is a driving route taking in many shipwreck locations around the island. Erected on King Island’s northern tip in 1861, Australia’s tallest lighthouse was built in response to the sinking of the Cataraqui. Like Waiheke and Aotea/Great Barrier in New Zealand, King Island’s population of around 1600 also supports a strong local arts scene. Visit the King Island Cultural Centre for regular exhibitions from island artists; much of the work is for sale. In February, the annual FOKI (Festival of King Island) weekend is the hottest ticket in town. Look forward to gigs with a blues, country and folk vibe with artists from around Australia.
The Cape Wickham lighthouse features on the King Island Maritime Trail driving route. Photo / Emilie Ristevski
Visitors keen to explore King Island’s rugged coastline have a couple of options. There are three golf courses on the island, with the Ocean Dunes course regularly rated one of Australia’s best public access courses. Look forward to negotiating a classic oceanside links course, secreted in the dunes of King Island’s west coast, and a great Southern Hemisphere stand-in for Scotland. Opened in 2015, the Cape Wickham course takes in the Cape Wickham lighthouse before finishing at a spectacular 18th hole high above the sandy arc of Victoria Cove. For a non-golfing walking experience, popular coastal trails include the easy 1.3km return stroll to the 7000-year-old natural landscape of the Calcified Forest. Nearby, the Seal Rocks Coastal Reserve has a boardwalk leading to a vertiginous viewing platform high above King Island’s windswept southern coast. It’s a great place for a Bass Strait sunset.
The Cape Wickham Golf Course opened in 2015. Photo / Adam Gibson
Where to eat
Mention King Island to most people around Australia and talk will quickly turn to King Island Dairy. Courtesy of local cows grazing on pastures enriched by salty spray, the island’s cheeses are renowned throughout Australia and also exported around the world. Visit King Island Dairy’s store in Loorana and buy up large for picnics, or enjoy a cheese board or oozy wedge of baked brie with an island-brewed beer. The Bass Strait Blue is an Aussie classic, and the company’s products also show up on menus around the island. Equally famous – on the island at least – is the King Island Bakehouse. Favourites include brioche and bacon burgers with local relish and King Island Dairy cheddar, and it’s probably frowned upon to leave the island without trying one of the bakery’s famous crayfish pies. For fine dining, head to Wild Harvest where the menu could include Bass Strait scallops or roast pork loin with island-foraged herbs. Near the water’s edge in King Island’s main settlement of Currie, the brightly painted Boathouse is known as “the restaurant with no food”. A barbecue and compact kitchen are both available, tables are laid with plates and cutlery, but you’ll need to bring along your own ingredients and prepare your own food. Book ahead to secure a table, and don’t forget to do the dishes. With a bit of luck you might even get a good tip.
The brightly-painted Boathouse is known as "the restaurant with no food". Photo / Stu Gibson
Unlike Kangaroo Island further northwest off the coast of South Australia, there’s no winemaking scene on King Island, but fans of other fermented beverages won’t be disappointed. Opened in 2021 by Sarah and Corey Brazendale - the couple met on a slow boat to Antarctica - the King Island Brewhouse turns out a range of beers. Spend an afternoon at the rural taproom from Thursday to Sunday, and definitely book ahead for the brewery’s popular pizza night on a Friday. Brews include Three Blind Mice, a Belgian-style triple pale ale, and they’ve even made a fresh hop beer from a century-old hop bine found growing wild on the island. For spirits also with a proud KI provenance, visit King Island Distillery where born and bred islander Heidi Weitjens crafts gin, vodka and whisky. Botanicals for her award-winning Native Gin are harvested by hand on the island.
Where to stay
Near the ocean at Naracoopa, King Island Accommodation Cottages has two self-contained one-bedroom cottages decked out in retro beachy style. kingislandaccommodationcottages.com.au.
A growing number of luxury stays includes Kittawa Lodge on King Island’s rugged southwestern coast. kittawalodge.com
Getting there and around
King Island Airlines and Rex Airlines both have direct flights from Melbourne to Currie on King Island. Rent a car from King Island Car Rental to get around.
