Tackling Patagonia for the over-60s. Photo / Getty Images
Tackling Patagonia for the over-60s. Photo / Getty Images
Age is but a number. This is how you go about hiking in Patagonia when you’re over 60 years of age – in a manner that is both challenging but comfortable, writes Sue Halliwell
We came to Patagonia for a walk on its wild side.
This one million-plus square kilometre shared territory of southern Argentina and Chile had long drawn us. So, with a South American-based Antarctic cruise behind us and ten days before returning to New Zealand, we could no longer resist Patagonia’s thrusting peaks, limpid lakes, glistening glaciers and enchanting forests. We would go wild there, although not as we had once hoped.
Patagonia's thrusting peaks. Photo / Getty Images
Now well over 60, the attraction of lugging monstrous packs across Patagonia’s mountainous terrain for weeks on end had somewhat dimmed. Add to that our time constraints, and comfort and convenience called. But, would this mean losing the full experience of this outdoor wonderland? Would we feel ancient and outcast among the pack-laden 20-somethings fresh from arduous Andes trails? Thankfully, the answer was a resounding no.
Indeed, we ticked off our full Patagonian wish list, overcame a number of challenges and even achieved long-held goals. Our simple formula was to remain young at heart and retain our senses of wonder and adventure and nowhere is this easier to do than in Patagonia.
We chose a reasonably-priced 9-day, online tour from the Tripadvisor website covering our Patagonian must-dos of El Calafate, El Chaltén, Torres del Paine National Park and Puerto Natales. Our accommodation, transport and most of our activities were included, with optional tours – such as a Torres del Paine trek - available should we fancy them.
Now very popular among younger South American travellers, it was our first online tour experience, and I confess it took a little getting used to. While we adapted well to the independence of being unguided, and loved the mid-range option of its three accommodation levels, we struggled with receiving the next day’s instructions via Whatsapp each evening, and relying on return messaging for further assistance.
Cue that sense of adventure. Each day then became a magical mystery tour and while we extracted the most from our excellent local guides on day excursions, we did our own research beyond that.
The view at Torres del Paine National Park. Photo / Getty Images
That research should probably have begun before arriving in Patagonia. Had we investigated Argentina’s current financial instability and stratospheric ATM fees more fully, we could have saved ourselves a bank-load of stress by taking American dollars to exchange. Likewise, online reviews would have alerted us to the vagaries of cut-price airline, Flybondi, for our internal flights. Frustrating doesn’t come close to our experience, which was anything but cut-price by the end.
Thankfully our tour ran more smoothly. As with many organised Patagonian tours, it started at the tourism hub of El Calafate on the shores of Lake Argentino. Called the “gateway to the glaciers” for good reason, it proved an excellent base for exploring nearby Los Glaciares National Park, particularly the dynamic Perito Moreno Glacier, one of the few in the world reportedly still advancing.
Our day-long Perito Moreno excursion brought our senses of wonder to immediate attention. It was awe-inspiring, and as older visitors we appreciated the extensive boardwalk network from which to view its many faces. No arduous treks here, but plenty of benches from which to watch the continual calving of the glacier, something I could happily do for hours.
We appreciated the extensive boardwalk network from which to view Perito Moreno Glacier’s many faces. Photo / John Gardiner
There would be hikes galore at our next stop, Argentina’s trekking capital of El Chaltén. We booked an amazing drive, boat and walk tour to incredible Mount Fitz Roy, Lago del Desierto and Vespignani Glacier for our first day, and walked the stunning Laguna Capri trail toward Mount Fitz Roy massif on the second.
Both adventures required entry into Los Glaciares National Park, for which fees have now been introduced. Some tours include these fees in their price, but if not, save time waiting in queues by prepaying on the park website.
The frontier-like town of El Chaltén delivered lots of young-at-heart fun, including in its buzzy eateries each evening. Had it been our Patagonia highlight we would have been completely satisfied but the best was yet to come.
El Chaltén’s spectacular environs offer a large variety of picturesque hiking experiences. Photo / John Gardiner
The next day saw our return to El Calafate before the long drive south through the Chilean border to delightfully picturesque Puerto Natales. We adored the town’s upbeat vibe, however that wasn’t our primary reason for being here. With many years of wishing behind us, we were now on the doorstep of the much-anticipated Torres del Paine National Park.
Beyond doubt, the park was our Patagonian highlight, although for different reasons. We opted not to attempt one of the demanding days-long circuits, instead going our separate ways on day excursions. He took the challenging 8-hour hike to the base of Torres del Paine’s three iconic horns, while I explored some of the park’s 2400sq/km wilderness on a drive-and-walk tour.
A walk on Patagonia’s wild side to Vespignani Glacier in Los Glaciares National Park out of El Chaltén. Photo / John Gardiner
Both delivered peak Patagonian experiences, and I kid you not, mine was a puma. Loping languidly down a hillside not far from our van, an excitable cub dancing around her feet and two more visible as tawny lumps outside their distant mountainside den, she was my apex Patagonian moment. Sadly, I will never have proof, so captivated was I by this glorious animal that I forgot to take a photo, but she will forever be etched into my memory.
Meanwhile, around 2 away and much higher up, photographic evidence was being produced of my other half’s Patagonian pinnacle. At 79 years old - his guide’s second oldest client ever – he had reached Torres del Paine’s track summit, something he had dreamed of for decades and spent weeks training for.
The 8-hour Torres del Paine trek was worth the considerable effort with a dream realised for this 79-year-old on reaching the track summit. Photo / Sue Halliwell
Our senses of wonder were in overdrive that evening at our Puerto Natales hotel as we compared high points. We had proved anything was possible in Patagonia with age no barrier, but agreed we would have made one change to our itinerary.
Had we fully appreciated the natural wonderland that is Torres del Paine National Park, we would have booked at least one night’s stay in this breathtaking place, and given our young hearts and adventurous spirits their fullest, wildest Patagonian workout yet.
Checklist
PATAGONIA, SOUTH AMERICA
GETTING THERE
Patagonia covers some 1500km from the gateway capital cities of Santiago in Chile and Buenos Aires in Argentina. The most popular trek in Torre del Paine is the W Trek.
