Everest: Nepal rewrites rule book for climbers after deadly season

Lonely at the top: Mt Everest permits will soon be limited. Photo / Guy Cotter

Following a shambolic and deadly season on Everest the Nepalese government has rewritten the rules governing the 8850-metre mountain.

Climbers seeking a permit to take on the famous peak from Nepal will have to demonstrate prior high-altitude climbing experience.

A permit will depend on climbers having summited a prior peak of at least 6500 metres.

A commission by the Nepalese government looking into high-altitude safety came up with these measures after what was one of the deadliest seasons on Everest in history.

Eleven climbers were left killed or missing, presumed dead over the month of May.

Nine of these climbers perished on the Nepalese side. Two died on the Chinese-managed Tibet ascent.

Many of these are blamed on inexperience and the volume of climbers over a difficult climbing window.

The review criticised the permit awarding body for allowing anyone who paid the $17000 cost to make the ascent. Veteran guides had long complained of the volume and quality of climbing parties on Everest. However, in May, a photo of the "traffic jam at the top of the world" by Sherpa Nirmal Purja captured the attention of the world.

However, the panel were quick to dismiss the idea that the crowded slopes were not the cause of the high death toll.

"Climbers died due to altitude sickness, heart attack, exhaustion or weaknesses, and not due to traffic jams," said panel member Mira Acharya.

Traffic jam at the top of the world: Climbers on Everest in May. Photo / Nirmal Purja, Supplied

"Climbers to [Everest] and other 8,000-metre mountains must undergo basic and high altitude climbing training," read the panel's report.

The panel – consisting of climbing experts, guides and government officials – said those attempting a climb should have previously summited a Nepalese peak of more than 6500metres before being given a permit. Other rules include mandatory health checks and the accompaniment of climbers by Nepalese guides.

Solo attempts were to be banned as an unnecessary risk to lives.

Nepal which holds eight of the ten tallest mountains in the world is a key destination for climbers.

The income from mountaineers and the employment provided by climbing makes it an important factor for the country's economy.

However the rapid growth of the mountaineering sector combined with the relative ease of access to the mountain has seen underqualified climbers being able to attempt the climb at increasingly low cost.

"One of the biggest problems are the inexperienced climbers tackling the mountain with un-regulated expeditions," Guy Cotter of Adventure Consultants Wanaka, told the Herald.

"It's the local budget operators that endanger the lives of their climbers and others."
Nepal issued 381 permits for Everest this year, with the key window for ascent being in May.

"The government will now make the required changes in laws and regulations guiding mountain climbing," said Ghanshyam Upadhyaya, a senior tourism official for Nepal, talking to reporters.

These new recommendations will be made law in time for next year's Everest climbing season.