Forget the luxury resorts: here’s where to ski in Europe if you want excellent skiing and après-ski without splurging. Photo / 123rf
If you’re dreaming of hitting the slopes on a European winter getaway, these lesser-known ski destinations offer a budget-friendly ski holiday, writes Beks Lockie
There are more than 4000 ski resorts in Europe. It’s an absolute mountain mecca. But before looking deeper into the world of European skiing, I’ll admit I could only name a handful of ski destinations in the region, which were naturally the most prestigious (and with that most expensive) places to hit the slopes. If you want the best of the best, don’t skip St Moritz, Verbier, Val D’Isere and Chamonix. But if you’re interested in expanding your horizons beyond France and Switzerland for your European winter getaway, here are some lesser-known ski spots with some delightful powder at a much friendlier price.
If someone asks me to recommend a cheap and cheerful ski location in Europe, my mind instantly goes to Poland. No, it’s not part of any world-famous mountain range but boy does it deliver on price. With cheap rental cars and accommodation and lift passes starting at around 143 PLN (NZ$60) per day, it’s the perfect place to hit the slopes without breaking the bank. As with other destinations, buying multiday passes online in advance of your visit can bring down the cost further.
Zakopane is my preferred destination in Poland because of the number of ski resorts all offering something a little bit different. If you’re travelling with a group, a chalet or hotel close to Białka Tatrzańska would be the perfect base, giving access to three different ski resorts with slopes for all abilities as well as thermal spas for the non-skiers (or for that post-ski soak). And there truly is nothing more comforting than a hearty meal of Polish food on a chilly day: pierogi (filled dumplings), potato pancakes with mushroom gravy and breaded pork cutlets spring to mind.
Czech Republic
The Czech Republic was not previously on my radar for snow sports at all. But only two hours from Prague you have Spindleruv Mlyn, a Czech ski village with 28km of slopes accessed for as little as 740 CZK (NZ$52) per day. It’s a perfect little weekend ski trip or an easy addition to your wintery visit to Prague. Intermediate and advanced skiers will be able to take advantage of all of the terrain here, while beginners might find this particular spot has limited options.
Aside from good value skiing, the picturesque Spindleruv Mlyn town has some fun apres-ski options: from cosy pubs and techno clubs to the igloo bar at the bottom of the piste. And of course more of that hearty mountain food that just feels right in a town like this. Go to Česká Hospoda for dinner in an authentic Czech cabin serving frankly ridiculous pork knuckle portions.
Andorra
Andorra, that tiny little country wedged between France and Spain, is an excellent place to explore the Pyrenees mountain range. Partly because of the novelty of adding one more country to your “visited” list and partly because its tax-free shopping makes it a relatively cost-effective option for both skiing and (as a welcome bonus) buying new ski gear.
With no airport in the country itself, you’ll need to fly via Toulouse in France or Barcelona, Girona or Reus in Spain and then drive approximately three hours into Andorra. Choose to base yourself closer to the larger more family-friendly Grandvalira ski resort or smaller but arguably more interesting resorts of Pal-Arinsal or Ordino. Ski passes are likely to be around €60 (NZ$107) per day at any of these locations. While Andorra might not have the best skiing in Europe when measured on the snow quality or access to iconic views, you’ll find some excellent facilities, beautiful bluebird days and 10/10 food that blends all of the nearby cuisines (think snails and crème brulee meeting hearty stews and mountain paella).
Bulgaria
Another good-value ski destination that holidaymakers flock to from all over Europe and the Middle East is Bansko in Bulgaria. This resort is 2.5 hours’ drive from Sofia and has some state-of-the-art facilities with (primarily intermediate) runs covering 75km. A day pass will set you back about 96 BGN (NZ$88).
It’s not hard to see why Bansko’s popularity is soaring. The resort is located within Pirin National Park, which is a Unesco World Heritage Site, the old town has a good reputation for nightlife and mixed grills and moussaka on offer in the on-slope restaurants only sweeten the deal. However, with that does come throngs of people. In recent years, visitors have complained of queues of up to two hours for the first gondola. If you’re still tempted to visit, try to avoid local celebrations and school holidays and start your day early to avoid getting caught in the crowds.
Italy
While not as “cheap and cheerful” as some of the other spots mentioned, skiing in the Italian Dolomites gives you by far the best bang for your buck. Positioning your stay in Val Gardena (three hours from Verona) or Cortina (three hours from Venice) gives you access to seemingly endless perfectly maintained slopes: 1200km of skiing to be exact. Buy a Dolomiti Superski pass from €75 (NZ$134) per day and you still won’t cover all of the terrain in a week.
A good place to start is by skiing the Sella Ronda (accessed from Val Gardena in the Northwest or Corvara in the northeast). It’s a relatively gentle and breathtakingly beautiful loop around a rock formation that takes you through four different ski valleys in around six hours. It should be on any skier’s wish list.
Aside from the impeccable skiing, Italy has (in my opinion) the best mountain food in all of Europe. Dotted across the piste are independent refugios (huts) serving lovingly prepared Italian (and some Austrian) classics. Sitting down to a warm bowl of pumpkin and sage gnocchi on a crisp but sunny day? There’s nothing like it.