Move over Mykonos, here comes Paros Island. Photo / Getty Images
With equal beauty and fewer tourists, Paros and Antiparos may not be as famous as their neighbouring islands, but they’re highly desirable, writes Bob Wallace
Not every (already) top-class destination can boast another obscenely attractive destination on its doorstep, but if anywhere can, it’s the Cyclades Islands in Greece. Famous attractions include the striking white buildings and blue domes of Santorini, and the party island of Mykonos.
However, the key destination in this piece is Paros; of all the 24 inhabited Cyclades islands, Paros is trending as one of the most desirable places to stay in Greece. Better yet, its bonus attraction is just a short ferry ride away – the smaller sister island of Antiparos.
Having recently visited Paros as part of an Intrepid Travel premium small-group tour that took in the much vaunted and photographed Santorini, as well as the largest of the Cyclades, Naxos, our group leader polled us on the final evening of the trip as to which of the destinations we rated best. To his surprise, among our group from the United States, Australia and New Zealand, the unanimous vote went to Paros – perhaps even more fascinating given that we had just finished experiencing the undoubtedly magnetic attractions of Santorini.
The group opinion was that picturesque Santorini was certainly a star-turn, but Paros won by a hair’s breadth due to its almost undefinable, evocative attraction. Perhaps because it doesn’t host so many tourists – it has only four flights inbound each day from Athens compared with as many as 20 into Santorini (or Thira as it is known locally).
Paros seems relatively unspoiled with its nicely balanced mixture of sandy beaches and water sports, enticing food options, vivid nightlife, traditional whitewashed buildings and great natural scenery. London-based friends who frequent Paros described it as not necessarily remarkable – “just prettily Greek”.
It may have helped that our accommodation was the excellent Paros Agnanti hotel, sited nicely at Krotiri looking out across the Aegean and above the sandy Krios and Marcello beaches, just outside the main Paros town of Parikia. While there was no public bus service available, the hotel provided its own gratis mini-bus transport to and from the town centre three times a day. Otherwise, a coastal hiking path was well worth the 45-minute walk; at least in the daylight. Or perhaps better still, for just a few euros, there is a half-hourly service by small ferry from Krios that takes about 10 minutes.
Getting to Paros from the Greek mainland can be something of an experience. Taking one of the large Blue Star ferries on a 3.5-hour trip from the Athens port of Piraeus to Paros is a good way of getting into the Greek island holiday zone. Boarding and disembarking through the big stern doors, you deposit your main piece of luggage in the dedicated areas on the other side of the deck to trucks, cars and other vehicles; taking just a day pack upstairs to the seating areas.
Tip for the hurly burly of disembarkation: Find an identification point when you park your luggage when you board. This is where travelling on a group trip helps – your group leader will make sure you go looking in the right area when it’s time to get off.
If you are not part of a group already, a Paros highlights tour is an easy come-by once you are there. Make sure it takes in Panagia Ekatontapyliani, the Parakia monastery church with 100 doors (99 are known, the 100th is said to be secret) and the charming hill village of Lefkes, in the centre of Paros, with views of the scenic landscape below, and out to sea. Then head north to the picturesque port town of Naoussa.
You will pass old marble quarries that have contributed to history in various ways. Regarded as superior to marble mined on the neighbouring island of Naxos, prized Parian marble features in the Temple of Apollo at Delphi, as well as being used for famous sculptures, most notably the Venus de Milo. Tiles from Paros once provided the roof of the Parthenon.
It is even easier unguided to access the gem that is Antiparos. Online, antiparosferries.gr will provide details of how to reach it – essentially via the port of Pounta, south of Parikia, or from Parikia itself during the summer months. As the closest mainland port to Antiparos, the Pounta ferry takes only seven minutes and costs a couple of euros, with vehicles extra, providing up to 36 sailings a day. The passenger-only Parikia ferry sails five times a day, with the 30-minute trip an equally economical sum of five euros (to be paid in cash on board).
Apart perhaps from helicopters, the ferries are the only way to reach Antiparos. This may add to its appeal for royalty, rich-listers and movie stars, including Tom Hanks, Bruce Willis and Pierce Brosnan, who are among its regular celebrity visitors.
But this is no exclusive escape. Take the public bus from the main town and port of Chora (also known as Hora, a common Grecian name for the biggest settlements) to reach any one of half a dozen sun-kissed beaches – some with more tavernas or accommodation than others. One or two have no such facilities. Be aware that on the beach close to Chora, known as Camping Beach, clothing is optional – it has been an official naturist beach for 50 years.
Apart from providing a cheap and easy way to get to the beaches, the bus also goes inland and uphill to the remarkable Antiparos cave, in the southern centre of the island. It is the only “upright” cave in Greece that is without water in its interior and descends 100 metres.
Intrepid travellers can go all the way down through a series of well-constructed stairways and more than 400 steps. On the descent, marvel at countless stalactites and stalagmites, including one huge stalagmite that is regarded as Europe’s most ancient.
The cave has been an attraction, shelter and refuge for numerous legendary figures, as well as notable others who have left their mark in graffiti – the engraved names include those of French botanist Coronelli, Venetian cartographer Laeke, and various religious heads and royalty, including Greek ruler King Otto and Queen Amalia in 1840.
Going down to the cavern’s depths is a memorable experience and a good level of fitness is required. Even the keenest of gym attendees will need to rest at some point. In any event, afterwards you can recover on one of those heavenly Paros beaches.