Views from Portugal's coastal road may take you by surprise. Photo / Getty Images
For Travel
Views from Portugal's coastal road may take you by surprise. Photo / Getty Images
For Travel
Portugal's roads are considered to be among the best in the world, making it a wonderful destination for a self-drive holiday.
There's no need to have a car while staying in Lisbon or Porto, as public transport is excellent and the hop-on hop-off bus is easy for sightseeing. But a leisurely road trip between these two ancient cities (approximately 5½ hours' driving time) is the ideal way to enjoy a taste of the townships and sights along the Atlantic coastline. Start in Lisbon and head north.
After spending time seeing Lisbon's highlights (see below), take the Metro back to the airport to pick up your rental car - there are plenty of choices and no need to navigate your way out of the city. Book in advance - the earlier, the cheaper.
Manoeuvring out of the tight rental carpark exit lane requires care and attention, especially with a left-hand drive that is probably manual – two elements that may be unfamiliar. Don't let this put you off. Do take photos of all aspects of the car before hopping inside, and again at the end of the trip before handing over the keys, as an indisputable record of the state of the car.
Driving on Portuguese roads is safe and systematic. Most of the auto-estrada motorways are multi-lane toll roads taking you from A to B swiftly and easily – worth paying, although there are free routes too. Hire a transponder from the rental company and drive straight through the "Via Verde" lanes; tolls are automatically charged to your credit card. Waze GPS navigation app is worth downloading.
Here are the don't-miss highlights to add to your road trip route.
Lisbon
With a long and rich history, prominent architecture and notable museums, Lisbon is one of the oldest continuously inhabited cities in the world. Mosaic Portuguese pavements originated here and examples of decorative ceramic tiles are everywhere. Travelling around the city is easy (metro, trams, trains, ferries). Purchase a Lisboa Card to ride for free and gain entry to various sightseeing options.
Lisbon is a hilly city, built into a succession of terraces overlooking the coast. Thoroughly modern yet retaining a strong air of yesteryear, astounding vistas spread before you. For a small charge, elevators and funiculars transport those with weary legs up or down. Boats and seafood are abundant and the Vasco da Gama bridge spanning the Tagus River is the longest in the European Union.
Visit the impressive Tower of Belem, Jeronimos Monastery and the old quarter of Alfama showcasing Roman and Moorish architecture amidst narrow streets.
Commerce Square sits proudly in Baixa, the heart of the city. Rossio Square is lively, with cafes, fountains and a wave-patterned pavement that is both striking and disorienting.
Bacalhoa Buddha Eden
An hour north of Lisbon, this oriental garden - the largest in Europe - was created as a reaction to the destruction of the Buddhas of Banyan in Afghanistan. It's easy to while away a morning in peace and tranquillity, wandering through the 35 hectares of gardens featuring buddhas, pagodas, terracotta statues and sculptures. Open every day except Christmas Day and New Year's Day.
Blue Buddha Garden: A copy of the Terracotta Army, at Bacalhoa Buddha Eden. Photo / 123RF
Obidos
Drive 20 minutes north from the Buddha Eden Garden to Obidos, a charming medieval town complete with imposing castle. Park by the aqueduct (pay and display) and take the short walk up to the old walled town which reveals narrow alleyways draped with cascading colour, shops and restaurants with faded facades, and beautiful churches with exquisite wood and tilework. Pick a cafe in a shady cobbled street and watch the world go by over cold beers and simple, tasty food. The enchanting 13th Century castle operates as a luxury hotel so stay a night if budget and time allow.
Peniche
Head west to the Silver Coast, where a three-night stay is ideal in this surprisingly large maritime hub. The locals love to entertain and restaurants cook fresh seafood in outdoor alleyways. Eat at Os Americano's (fine food and exceptional service); enjoy casual drinks at Tres As Bar (friendly and atmospheric with a vintage flavour); sample pastries from the various bakeries (spoilt for choice). Try to stay upwind of the large sardine factory!
Peniche has a history of bobbin lacemaking. There's a small museum dedicated to this intricate craft and locals proudly demonstrate in the square. The Fortress was once a political prison, renowned for two daring and successful escapes; an impressive setting that combines a slice of history with fabulous panoramic views.
Early morning sea fog often pervades the seafront but, once the sun is out, head to one of the excellent beaches for surfing, swimming, paddle-boarding etc. Beware, the Atlantic Ocean can be cold even in the height of summer.
Take a memorable day's boat trip to Berlenga Island, a marine reserve with natural beauty and rich history. Walking tracks, caves, a lighthouse, turquoise water and a spectacular fort which offers inimitable accommodation and a cafe. Even in perfect weather, be prepared for roller-coaster marine swells – second nature for keen boaties and worth it even if you're a tad nervous on the water, especially when there are dolphins about.
Head to Nazare's headland for fantastic views and Portugal's brave big wave surfers. Photo / 123RF
Nazare – Home of Giant Surf
An hour north is Nazare, home of giant surf. The old square sits high on the clifftop; visit the charming 14th Century Sanctuary of Our Lady church then meander down to the lighthouse on the headland for fantastic views.
To the south is the Praia de Nazare beach with its colourful beach shelters, terracotta rooftops, sun worshippers and swimmers. To the north lies the golden expanse of Praia do Norte beach where huge Atlantic waves roll in, gifting skilled and fearless surfers with the waves of their dreams (October to March). Generated by an underwater canyon, the surf is legendary.
The old fort on the headland houses a beautifully curated Surf Museum displaying surfboards that have survived the big waves and showcasing stories of the bold surfers who have ridden them. Quirky gull sculptures standing on guard upon the fort walls add a lovely creative element.
Take the funicular down to the seafront for lunch and maybe stay a night or two.
Coloured boats on the canal in Aveiro, the 'Venice of Portugal' Photo / 123RF
Aveiro
In this upbeat university town, described as "the Venice of Portugal", mercantile boats gently take tourists through a network of canals and Venetian-style bridges to the salt marsh lagoon. Once known as "white gold", salt was mined in Roman times and is still mined today, although tourists have become the new white gold. Enjoy a G&T at a bar by the market followed by an unpretentious dinner at a local restaurant. Stay at a hotel overlooking the canal.
The nearby township of Costa Nova is worth visiting. Known for bold striped chalets and seafood restaurants, settle in for a languid lunch. Walk from the tranquil harbour to the rugged Atlantic beach where surf surges and, way over the horizon, lies America. Locals roasting peppers in front of their homes is a common sight.
Porto – A City Like No Other
Another hour's drive north and you'll arrive in Porto, a city like no other. Dating back to 300BC, this mesmerising city offers much to see and do. Six bridges span the Douro River and the fully integrated transport network ensures traffic, trains, people and boats flow easily from one side to the other. The locals are a happy bunch and hugely proud of their city – "the most beautiful in all of Europe", they say. It's easy to concur.
The art nouveau interior of the iconic Majestic Cafe evokes the splendour of the Belle Epoch era. Livraria Lello bookshop attracts tourists thanks to its twisting wooden staircases, stained glass ceiling and magnificent architectural features, which reportedly inspired JK Rowling when she was dreaming up Hogwarts school in the Harry Potter series. The shop does have a touch of magic about it but be prepared for crowds and an entry fee.
The many port houses are situated in Gaia, on the southern side of the river. The terrain is steep and your tipple will be well-earned. The white port is exceptionally good!
Matosinhos
Continue north to spend time in Matosinhos, which is an unusual mix of traditional old town, modern architecture and Atlantic coastal resort with an atmospheric industrial vibe. The beach has silky caramel sand, gentle surf, an esplanade, cafes, apartment blocks and old castle ruins.
An eye-catching sculpture, inspired by fishing nets, is stunning from all angles. The tiled buildings in the old town seem about to crumble and it's a strange sight to witness the modern Metro train zip through history.
For lunch, head to Rua Herois de Franca, a street lined with authentic seafood restaurants, where smoke and steam billow from grills as fresh catch is salted, sizzled, basted, turned and served. Most of this is done outside in the street and whatever you order – octopus, prawns, sardines or turbot – it's bound to be unbelievably good.
CHECKLIST: LISBON
GETTING THERE The most direct route from Auckland to Lisbon or Porto is with Emirates via Dubai or Qatar Airways via Doha. Talk to your travel agent about car rental options. DETAILS For more things to see and do in Portugal, go to visitportugal.com
