Avoid the crowds in Venice. Photo / Daniela Becerra; Unsplash
In Venice, tourists can sometimes outnumber Venetians two-to-one, leaving Italy’s City of Canals heaving. But if you’re in the know you can still find a quiet campo with the residents, write Fiona Whitty.
8am
Head towards Piazza San Marco and settle down inside Pasticceria Da Bonifacio. Tucked away quietly on a side street, it serves excellent coffee and sweet and savoury pastries, such as anchovy and tomato tart.
8.45am
For insider tips take a walking tour with a Venetian guide - try Deborah M. from ToursByLocals. Her hidden gems include the 16th-century red paint graffiti in the piazza of “1588″ - the year locals celebrated work on the Rialto Bridge. She also showed us a bronze torso with a protruding belly which Venetians rub for good luck.
12.45pm
Grab freshly-baked pizza by the slice from any small outlet along the passageways off Piazza San Marco. Much quieter than the main square.
2pm
Stroll over to Scala Contarini del Bovolo. Hidden down an alley, it’s an 80-step spiral staircase from 1499 that translates as “stairs of the snail”. Climb up for great views.
2.45pm
Head back to Piazza San Marco and the elaborate Basilica di San Marco - the cathedral dedicated to its patron saint. To avoid huge queues book great-value “skip-the-line” tickets on the official website. For views, add on the Basilica’s 99m-high Campanile bell tower.
4.45pm
Venice’s vaporetti water buses are cheap and simple to use. To hop on and off, buy a 48-hour Venezia Unica City Pass – it covers the city and islands.
Catch the 4.1 or the 4.2 to the island of Murano, famed for glass-blowing (some places are simply worth the crowds). Browse its glass shops and visit Murano Gelateria for homemade ice cream - try ginger and liquorice.
7.30pm
After returning to Piazza San Marco head to Al Portego for Venetian classics like sarde in soar (fried sardines marinated in sweetened vinegar) and bigoli in salsa (pasta with anchovies). Join locals for a spritz – have it with Aperol or Campari.
10pm
Venice hotels are expensive but, for ease, stay somewhere central, preferably on a canal, like Splendid Venice. Top-floor terraces overlook the Campanile, offering an elevated escape from the throngs below.
8am
Follow the locals and start off Venetian-style at Pasticceria Tonolo. Order coffee and pastries from the counter - try choux-style buns filled with different creams - then eat while standing in the bakery as only the locals do.
8.30am
Wander south through the cool Dorsoduro district over tiny bridges, narrow passageways and pretty campi - paved open spaces lined with bars and restaurants.
9 am
Beat the crowds to watch boats and gondolas from the wooden Ponte Dell’ Accademia, one of four bridges over the main Grand Canal.
9.30am
Jump on vaporetto number 1 or 2 to Ferrovia, stopping off at the Rialto Bridge. From here go to glitzy department store Fondaco dei Tedeschi, where the roof terrace provides perfect rooftop views (free but book in advance). Carry on to Ferrovia, stopping off at Ca d’Oro palace and gallery, then return to Accademia.
11.30am
Art lovers are spoilt for choice here. For traditional Venetian art including paintings by Giovanni Bellini and Titian head to the Gallerie dell’ Accademia. For modern work by Pablo Picasso and Salvador Dalí try the Peggy Guggenheim Collection.
2pm
Enjoy a lunchtime spritz and cicchetti - small snacks like cured meats or seafood on bread - outside Osteria Al Squero and watch craftsmen repairing gondolas at the 600-year-old Squero di San Trovaso boatyard across the canal. Afterwards, enjoy an icecream on the Zattere waterfront.
3pm
Follow the canal back up past Al Squero, enjoying tranquil, near-empty paths. Cross the Ponte dei Pugni, a bridge once notorious for gang fights, then browse the fruit and veg boat alongside before stopping off for coffee at Al Bocon Divino on Campo Santa Margherita. As you leave, catch a glimpse of Banksy’s Migrant Child, a graffiti work featuring a refugee holding a lifejacket and purple flare.
4.30pm
Visit the beautiful Basilica di Santa Maria Gloriosa dei Frari, an 800-year-old Franciscan church with vast artwork including two 16th-century Titians.
5.30pm
Stroll back to the Rialto Bridge via Campo San Polo. Popular All’Arco is great for a spritz but there are many great cafes and bars to nip into.
6.30pm
Catch a number 1 or 2 vaporetto to Piazza San Marco. Just after the Peggy Guggenheim Collection on the right have a look – if you dare - at the Ca’ Dario house, said to be cursed because several owners have died or suffered hardship. Superstitious Venetians feel chills just seeing it.
6pm
If you fancy a gondola ride grab one now before the evening rush. Legend has it that couples who pass under the Bridge of Sighs at sunset as the Campanile bell tolls will enjoy everlasting love – so at sunset it gets busy.
7pm
Jump back on the number 2 to Accademia or Ca’ Rezzonico and join locals again on Campo Santa Margherita. Try da Fede for Venetian favourites like spaghetti with seafood or squid ink spaghetti or Bifora for cured meats and cheese. Afterwards, adjourn one of the buzzy bars.
For more things to do in Venice, see visitvenezia.eu/en
When there's nothing as far as the eye can see, you may appreciate the company.