Rotterdam is just 25 minutes by train from Amsterdam and it’s here you’ll find kubuswoningen, the city’s strange collection of cube houses. Now a hostel, budget travellers will find it’s as retro as it is reasonably priced, writes Julia Hammond.
It had been a long day. My rucksack lay carelessly discarded on the floor; the key card I’d dropped had landed on a neatly rolled towel at the foot of the bed. My raincoat hung on the hook – I’m not a complete slob – but the rest of the unpacking would have to wait for a bit as I rested my head on the pillow and took in my surroundings. The sparsely furnished room with its sterile wet room was anything but average. My eyes followed straight lines, but only a few met at 90 degrees. The doors were right, but the windows, walls and ceilings? They were completely off. Instead of falling into a restful slumber my mind tried to dredge up rudimental concepts of geometry as I stared at a pentagon-shaped window.
Piet Blom was the man responsible for this bizarre but intriguing place. Born in Amsterdam, by the second half of the 20th century he’d become one of the Netherlands’ most influential architects. He was guided by the motto “Living under an urban roof” and believed that by connecting small dwellings with larger communal spaces, he could achieve a greater sense of belonging. In effect he was trying to create a village community at the heart of the city. Principles such as integration, coherence and shared values were at the heart of his designs.
To the delight of Rotterdam’s planners, Blom’s blueprint for an urban forest of treehouses turned out to be as practical as it was striking. When complete, this remarkable string of elevated, tilted cubes formed a bridge over the Blaak, enabling pedestrians to cross the busy road safely when moving between the inner city and Old Harbour. Witty locals dubbed it the Blaak Forest. Florence’s 14th-century Ponte Vecchio was supposed to have inspired Blom’s cube house project, though the way I looked at it, the place couldn’t be more Eighties even if you wrapped massive leg-warmers around its concrete ankles.