Escape to the Matakana valley

By GEOFF CUMMING

You know you're out of Auckland when the man selling bags of mandarins at a roadside stall hands over a few loose ones for the car. "Must be hard work picking them," I venture. "Nah, the wife's out doing that," he shrugs. And he hands over a few more.

They have their priorities in order in the laid-back Matakana valley. Complete strangers still say good morning to one another. There's a generosity of spirit that's appreciably different to the big city, even though it's just an hour down the road.

What's surprising is that these relaxed, happy faces are likely as not to belong to Aucklanders, or former Aucklanders.

Nestled between hills on one side and the island-studded waters of Kawau Bay on the other, the rolling Matakana countryside has long attracted cityfolk looking for a better lifestyle. It's a great getaway for the mildly active - snorkelling at the Goat Island marine reserve; surf beaches; Tawharanui Regional Park; the Hauraki Gulf for boating, fishing or diving; Kawau Island just a ferry ride away.

But the extension of the Northern Motorway to Orewa has accelerated its transformation into a more indulgent playground. There is quality food and wine in abundant variety - Aucklanders can get back to nature while still doing the things they love best.

It was the quiet country life that drew Nigel and Varey Keys to the area three years ago. Nigel, a lawyer, was tiring of the daily grind and the blood-pressure-raising drive from one side of Auckland to the other just to get to work and back.

Varey was equally stressed by her job as a social worker. And their friends were exhibiting signs of stress - such as dropping dead from heart attacks.

So they resolved to quit the rat race and find an old villa in the country. But instead they found a warm, modern house on a sunny slope with a view to die for. The idea was that by running a bed and breakfast, they could cut back on their professional commitments and live the good life.

What they underestimated was the multiplier effect of the motorway extension. Curious Aucklanders discovered the area and thought: why limit yourself to a day trip when there's so much to do and see? Particularly now that there's a wine trail and cafes to showcase the area's emerging reputation as a gourmet nursery.

The result is that Nigel and Varey are nearly as busy as ever, tending to stressed out cityfolk who descend on the 775 Bed & Breakfast off the Leigh road.

Hens roam freely around the 4ha of pasture and bush running down to an upper arm of Whangateau Harbour.

"We don't discourage them as they contribute significantly to breakfast," says Varey, who also keeps doves and maintains the garden.

Among their guests are a steady trickle of overseas tourists. "They pay to stay here and then invite us back to their place for free - they're wonderful people," says Varey, who enjoys nothing more than a warm summer evening on the patio, glass of red wine in hand, pointing out the Southern Cross to her foreign visitors.

When we visited, Nigel was spending a lot of his time chasing hens, and stumbling upon their eggs.

But what does most to lower their stress levels is the panoramic view which stretches from Pt Wells, across Omaha Bay and over to the Coromandel Peninsula.

Guests arriving by night don't know what they're missing until they roll up in the morning for "Nigel's famous breakfast" - and he does have a way with fried potatoes and those free-range eggs.

The temptation is to go no further than the conservatory, but the Matakana valley offers much to explore. In the past 15 years, former dairy farms have been carved into 4ha blocks and green pasture replaced with grape vines and orchards.

A roadside trawl confirms the organic commitment of many lifestylers in their capsicums, mandarins, lettuces, free-range chickens and eggs. Pop over to Snells Beach and you can sample John Nicholson's export-quality oysters as well.

What the influx of visitors has brought, says Nigel, is a refreshing degree of co-operation to the once haphazard hospitality sector. At last count, there were around 100 places to stay, ranging from backpackers to B&Bs and luxury lodges.

The wineries, restaurants, potteries, art studios, accommodation and leisure operators have joined forces to promote themselves as Matakana Coast Wine Country, a name that has raised some eyebrows in Hawkes Bay. Growers who once eyed one another warily now sing each other's praises.

There are now 11 vineyards; six - Ransom, Ascension, Matakana Estate, Heron's Flight, Hyperion and Mahurangi Estate - have formed a wine trail offering cellar-door tastings and sales.

Heron's Flight and Ascension have excellent food as well, with outdoor tables. Even so, it hasn't been easy.

At Heron's Flight, the oldest surviving vineyard, we sampled the last of winemaker David Hoskins' chardonnay. He's ripped out his vines three or four times in an attempt to find the perfect grape for the moist climate and puggy clay soils.

He's now concentrating on Italian sangiovese and dolcetto varieties. The sangiovese is highly rated and Hoskins' harvest was up this year while the rest of the country's was down.

But the best known winery is Ascension, its Spanish-style cafe and cellar building prominently positioned just over the hill from Warkworth.

Darryl and Bridget Soljan's range of palatable home-grown wines and richly varied restaurant fare are as good as the carpark suggests - overflowing with Beamers and 4WDs.

But our personal culinary highlight was at the least likely venue, surrounded by sharp metal implements and intimidating wooden beams at Leigh's themed Sawmill Cafe.

My yellow fin tuna with roast almond butter on beetroot salad with capsicum, lemon and fennel salsa was a divine combination. Gina's organic eye fillet on tomato jus, shitake hash brown, mushrooms and spinach was equally good and further proof we were in the country - the serving was far too big.

We left thinking that when we return, we really must try some of the area's more active pursuits.

* Geoff and Gina Cumming were guests of 775 Bed & Breakfast.


Matakana Coast


WHERE TO FIND IT

775 Leigh Rd, RD5, Warkworth. Ph (09) 422-9127, fax (09) 422 9157.

WHAT'S THERE

Within the house are three double bedrooms - the Twin Room, the Primrose Room and the Wine Room. A shared bathroom features a luxurious and large spa bath. The Suite includes a queen-size bed, bed settee and private en suite and is ideal for families or small groups. Television and tea and coffee facilities included. The Loft features queen-size bed, bathroom and shower, television and small balcony. All rooms have robes and slippers and electric blankets.


WHAT IT COSTS

Twin Room, Primrose Room and Wine Room: $120 a night; The Suite: $180 a night. The Loft: $180 a night. Tariff includes full cooked or continental breakfast.

ACCESS

The house is easy to enter and exit and The Suite is recommended for the wheelchair-bound.

FOOD

"Nigel's Famous Breakfast" is the real deal with bacon, mushrooms, fried potatoes, tomatoes and free range eggs. There's fresh fruit, yoghurt, cereal, juice, perked coffee and a range of teas. Lunch hampers for two are available for $50.