Dunedin: The scarfie who never was

Historic Larnach Castle is open for day trips and overnight stays. Photo / NZME.

A castle, gardens and penguins give the student town of Dunedin a more refined air, finds Sam Wicks.

"It's Bill smyth, anythin I said or did which u might incorporate in your article must be checked with me then agreed. Cheers."

The text came through the morning after, from 19-year-old Bill (name changed to protect the not-so-innocent) - enthusiastic scarfie and self-appointed host for the evening's festivities; an overcrowded flat party in Dunedin (where else?) complete with youth gone wild, earbleedingly loud dubstep and flaming mattresses.

A fire engine arrived to douse the furniture and the crew barely blinked at the sight.

Just another Friday night on London St, apparently. And the neighbours?

"Not to worry," said Bill.

"All our neighbours are scarfies too. It's all good, bro."

It was the moment I'd missed out on nearly 15 years ago - my chance to visit Dunedin, neck Speight's out of the bottle and generally mooch around making the most of this very small yet very lively city. The scarfie who never was. I'd always regretted that Victoria University didn't quite match the stories I'd heard about down south. So when the chance came to have a week's explore, I was keen. Like an uncool uncle trying to relive his youth.

Bill, as it turned out, eventually disappeared into the throng of other dancing/drinking/yelling scarfies and I was left to make my way back to the hotel having had just a glimpse of the life I missed out on. No matter, I had to get up early to begin my week's exploration. After all, I was there to experience some of the city's more refined attractions, too.

The Dunedin Chinese Garden

A real highlight of Dunedin, yet little known, this serene spot was opened in 2008 as a collaboration between Dunedin City Council and its sister city Shanghai. Wander through the authentic Yuanlin spherical grounds, circling a pond with goldfish. Head inside the teahouse for traditional Chinese teas, dumplings and steam buns.

Larnach Castle

A large mansion on the Otago Peninsula, Larnach Castle is open for day trips and overnight stays. William James Mudie Larnach was born in 1833 in New South Wales and ended up in Otago, thanks to its 1860s' gold rush. The magnate and politician's demise was tragic: He took his own life in 1898 and the family was torn asunder by legal battles over his wealth.

However, what remains today is a charming, beautifully gardened, peaceful retreat comprised of materials from all over Western Europe: Italian marble, Welsh slate, British floor tiles and Venetian glass. I stayed in the historic stables - a 140-year-old historic building boasting incredible views of the surrounding countryside. The furnishings were appropriately quaint and it was almost difficult to drag myself away to explore the surrounds.

Penguin sighting

From Larnach Castle you're perfectly situated to take a tour of the region's wildlife; namely yellow-eyed penguins. Penguin Place Conservation Reserve is a private enterprise set up in 1985 when there were just eight remaining pairs. They get you as close as possible to observing these adorable creatures.

Our visit began with a short talk about the issues and achievements surrounding the conservation effort, after which we were led through a unique system of covered trenches and viewing hides. One highlight was when we all stood still and listened to a penguin stomp over our heads on his way to his bachelor's crib.

Historic Larnach Castle is open for day trips and overnight stays. Photo / NZME.

Speight's tour

The local drop of choice since 1976, no trip to Dunedin is complete without a tour of the mecca on Rattray St where there's been a brewery since 1876. Whether you're a history buff or a beer fanatic, this is a chance to glean some secrets from the people behind the quintessentially Southern ale and - importantly - a chance to sample it fresh from the source.

Cadbury World

Dunedin is also home to Cadbury World, where you can learn the history of chocolate, watch it being made and sample, not to mention the swag-filled care package you leave with. For serious fans, Cadbury hosts a chocolate festival every July in Dunedin.

Activities include the famous Giant Jaffa Race down Baldwin St - the steepest street in the world. The carnival is great for kids and conveniently falls on the second week of the school holidays.

CHECKLIST

Getting there: Jetstar flies from Auckland to Dunedin daily.

Further information: See dunedinnz.com.