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Hot and cold running chocolate and a castle ... it's the stuff of fairy tales surely? Nope, it's Dunedin.
A New Zealand winter destination often written off as too cold and overlooked by all but the hardiest rugby supporters, Dunedin is in fact quite the hidden treasure when it comes to holidays - especially if you want to keep the kids amused. Here are some suggestions:
1. Cadbury World
Never mind Willie Wonka, the kids will be open-mouthed with awe and greed on a visit to Dunedin's famous chocolate factory. Part adventure playground, part feast and part educational field trip, a visit to the factory includes lessons on the history of chocolate as well as DVD presentations and tour (with tastings) through the factory.
And if you're Dunedin-bound in the July school holidays the Cadbury Chocolate Carnival will pretty much take over the city. The programme of events for the week-long carnival, from July 7 to 13, includes magic shows, theatre, craft competitions, film screenings, jazz nights - or watching 20,000 Giant Jaffas (the chocolate kind obviously, it's not a display of cruelty to northerners) rolled down Baldwin St, which claims to be the world's steepest street. The list of events basically takes in all Dunedin's key attractions.
See www.cadbury.co.nz.
2. Larnach Castle
Built in 1871, this is Dunedin's most famous building. It attracts thousands of visitors every year, drawn as much by the buildings' dramatic, often tragic, history as the beautifully restored rooms and stunning grounds.
Give the kids the heebie-jeebies with some of the ghost stories that haunt the castle and let them run them through the gardens which, while being heaven for the greenfingered, also have an Alice in Wonderland quality that kids will love.
And if you visit in winter there's a chance you'll see the castle covered in snow which adds to the magic no end. Before you leave be sure to climb to the top of the tower to make the most of the incredible views over Otago Peninsula.
3. Taieri Gorge Railway
Dunedin's beautiful, historic railway station is worth a visit in itself but it's also the departure point for the fantastic Taieri Gorge Railway. The train departs every day (except Christmas Day) for the four-hour (77km each way) return trip to the tiny Central Otago settlement of Pukerangi. Along the way it passes through the spectacular Taieri Gorge, across huge iron viaducts and through tunnels carved out by hand more than 100 years ago. There's a full commentary during the journey plus photo-stops along the way.
If, from Pukerangi, you want to press on through Central Otago to Queenstown, a bus can collect you from the railway station. The trains run, winter, rain, snow or shine, and the carriages are snugly heated - making it the perfect all-weather adventure.
See taieri.co.nz.
4. Royal Albatross colony
This is another one the kids are bound to love. The Royal Albatross Centre at the bottom of Taiaroa Head on the Otago Peninsula marks the world's only mainland breeding colony of these huge seabirds. Since 1938 the fledgling colony - now a protected nature reserve - has grown to 140 birds. If you visit between April and August the colony is in its nesting and feeding cycle, which means there are generally several very cute, fluffy, although still very big, chicks to admire.
After birdwatching there are several other sights to see in this part of the peninsula including Fort Taiaroa - a network of tunnels built more than 100 years ago to guard against the threat of invasion from Tsarist Russia. Today the fort is a museum. Two historic homes and gardens, Glenfalloch and Fletcher House, are also nearby and open to visitors.
See albatross.org.nz.