Is Rotorua as good as it's pitched to be? A US-based writer weighs in. Photo / Supplied
Is Rotorua as good as it's pitched to be? A US-based writer weighs in. Photo / Supplied
US-based travel writer Ashley Ellington Brown continues her road trip across New Zealand. This week she’s in Rotorua deciding if the tourist town is everything it’s touted to be.
Remarkable Rotorua! I’d been concerned it would be touristy, but it was spectacular. I must thank my friend Mary(who you’ll meet in the Wellington article) for recommending I stay there rather than do a day trip. I spent only two nights in Rotorua, but wished it had been more.
To me, this is a must-see destination due to the rich Māori culture and awe-inspiring scenery.
When I arrived via Intercity bus from Auckland, I was struck by the pretty, tidy downtown with its ornate architecture, brick footpaths, and bright flowers. After fuelling up at the i-Site cafe with tea and sliders (best I’ve ever tasted, naturally), I made the easy walk to Aura Accommodation. This turned out to be quite the find.
Not only was my room spacious and comfy, with a kitchenette, table, and plenty of supplies, but the staff were incredibly … well … accommodating! The young woman who greeted me carried my (overweight) suitcase upstairs to my room. Plus, I loved their mineral springs tub, which, while not attractive (it’s due for renovation), was extremely relaxing.
Refreshed, I explored the peaceful lakefront and gorgeous Government Gardens, encountering both beautiful and bizarre-looking birds. Then I got ready for one of the highlights of my trip: the Mitai Māori experience.
After a short ride to the village, we were ushered into the main hall where our fun host gave us a traditional Māori welcome. We then walked into the forest down a path along a crystal-clear rushing stream. I could feel the peace emanating from the land; it was extraordinary. A light drizzle added to the ambience as warriors paddled a waka around the bend, torches flickering and chants echoing. I still get chills thinking about it.
Witness warriors paddling in an ancient warrior canoe at Mitai Māori Village. Photo / Destination Rotorua
Next we went into a covered pavilion, cozy and warm with fires burning, for the cultural performance. The stories, songs, dances, and skill demonstrations were amazing and gave us a fascinating glimpse into the depth and breadth of Māori culture.
Afterwards, we returned to the hall for the feast. And what a feast! Everything on the huge spread was fabulous — the hāngī, the seafood chowder, that toffee pudding with custard— wow.
Then it got even better as we headed back into the forest to see the glow worms. The cynic in me resisted at first (these can’t possibly be real!) but I finally relaxed into the utter magic with childlike wonder.
The next day I went to Wai-O-Tapu (which absolutely is a “thermal wonderland”) and Waimangu. I was awed by the dramatic landscapes, steam vents, vividly coloured sulphur pools, bubbling mud, craters, terraces, and geysers, as well as Waimangu’s unbelievably lush native forest and the story behind it.
The "champagne pool" at Wai-o-Tapu. Photo / Supplied
Taking tons of pictures, I wanted to linger everywhere (although I did think that our Old Faithful beats your Lady Knox geyser). My half-day tour was too short and felt a bit rushed; I recommend spending at least a full day.
I had tickets for the afternoon tour of Whakarewarewa Living Māori Village, which was on the way back to town. My friendly guide suggested she drop me at Te Puia so I could have lunch there overlooking the impressive Pohutu geyser, then walk over to the village. This worked out perfectly.
I absolutely loved Whakarewarewa and learning about its history, the female guides who became celebrities, the hill where the warriors scared off invaders (chills again), and the cultural traditions that are still alive today. How wonderful that the Māori community continues to thrive on that sacred land.
I marvelled at the steam vents all over and the ingenious ways they were used, from the outdoor baths with the brilliant system for a flow of filtered hot water, to the cooking area with communal steam boxes and hot spring for boiling food. We each got to sample corn cooked in the spring; it was the best I’ve ever had, and I’ve had a lot.
Then, I took my sore self to the Polynesian Spa. If you’ve never been, you must go. To soak in the outdoor hot pools while gazing at the lake is absolute bliss. It was one of the most tranquil experiences of my life.
Rotorua's Eat Street precinct is a one-stop shop for diners. Photo / Supplied
The Priest’s Spring pool was especially restorative, and I alternated that with the cold tub multiple times. As I strolled back to my room during a stunning sunset, I felt physically and mentally rejuvenated. My usual back tightness all gone, muscles loose and no longer sore, energetic yet calm — I was on a natural high.
I headed to the famous Eat Street and devoured a delicious pizza. After a deep sleep, I made the easy walk back to the bus station, sad to leave but excited to see my friend. On to Wellington! ...
