Introducing the Italian region that has (largely) remained under the radar. Photo / Lonely Planet
Introducing the Italian region that has (largely) remained under the radar. Photo / Lonely Planet
Discover a year’s worth of unforgettable short trips with Lonely Planet’s latest book, 100 Weekends in Europe. Here, in an extract from the book, we take a look at Viterbo, a delightfully under-discovered province in the Lazio region of Italy.
Nestled in northern Lazio, between the Tyrrhenian Sea and the Tiber Valley, the region around the city of Viterbo has (largely) remained under the radar of visitors. Yet it holds myriad treasures: fabulous Renaissance castles and gardens or the grand papal buildings of Viterbo, as well as Roman amphitheatres at Ferento and Sutri, picturesque villages and dramatic hilltop settlements such as Civita di Bagnoregio and a wealth of Etruscan remains, from the Unesco-listed necropolis sites at Tarquinia and Cerveteri to the city ruins of Vulci and Norchia.
The hilltop settlement of Civita di Bagnoregio, Italy. Photo / Giuseppe Mondì on Unsplash
There are natural attractions aplenty too: in a mosaic of landscapes that alternates between mountains and olive groves, vineyards and vast plains, you can bathe in the hot springs at Bullicame, Carletti, Bagnaccio and San Sisto; go canoeing, fishing or birding in volcanic lakes; or head into the hills to enjoy hiking trails through the beech forests.
The local cuisine is another drawcard: sample freshwater fish from the lakes or local delights such as zuppa di ceci e castagne (chickpea and chestnut soup) and acquacotta (a rustic broth enriched with bread and egg) – and don’t forget fine local wines such as Montefiascone’s Est! Est!! Est!!!
Some 20km southeast of Viterbo, Caprarola is home to the lordly Palazzo Farnese, a 16th-century gem commissioned by Cardinal Alessandro Farnese, the future Pope Paul III (1534–1549). Its distinct pentagonal design, internal circular courtyard and extraordinary columned staircase are the work of Antonio da Sangallo, with later modifications by one of Renaissance Italy’s finest Mannerist architects, Giacomo Barozzi da Vignola. The interior frescoes are spectacular, and it’s well worth making time to explore the formal gardens, with their fountains and French-style parterre (an ornamental garden arrangement of flower beds).
Caprarola is home to the lordly Palazzo Farnese. Photo / Getty Images
Stroll through ravishing Renaissance gardens
In Bagnaia, the Villa Lante also designed by Vignola, has a very different look to the Palazzo Farnese. Here, the buildings feel like a mere ornament to the garden, which features fountains, an ingenious water cascade and, at the bottom, a perfectly manicured parterre. In Vignanello, Castello Ruspoli features a beautifully maintained formal garden, first laid out in 1611. The region’s most eccentric 16th-century garden is Bomarzo’s Parco dei Mostri (Park of Monsters), aka the Sacro Bosco, brainchild of Count Vicino Orsini, and scattered with sculpted animals, ogres, giants and dragons.
Discover Viterbo’s medieval marvels
Known as the City of the Popes, Viterbo had its heyday between 1257 and 1281, when it was a favoured papal residence. Transport yourself to the heart of the medieval city in Piazza San Lorenzo, overlooked by a fantastic ensemble of buildings, including Palazzo dei Papi and the Cattedrale di San Lorenzo. Then lose yourself in the maze of alleyways in the San Pellegrino district, its houses flanked by external staircases (profferli), arcades and towers.
Lose yourself in the maze of alleyways in the San Pellegrino district of Viterbo. Photo / Getty Images
Visit Viterbo’s Lakes
Of the two volcanic lakes near Viterbo, Bolsena is the larger and offers a wide range of activities – sailing, kayaking, fishing, birdwatching – as well as beautiful villages such as Bolsena, Capodimonte and Montefiascone along its shoreline. Surrounded by the Monti Cimini and a protected nature reserve, Lago di Vico is for nature lovers. Hiking trails thread into the hills around the lake, taking in the wild slopes of Monte Fogliano and Monte Venere.
Explore an Etruscan Realm of the Dead
The Necropoli di Tarquinia (also known as Monterozzi) dates to the 7th century BCE and comprises about 6000 tombs, some 200 of which are adorned with fabulous frescoes. Full of life and colour, they depict banqueting, hunting and fishing. Of the 20 or so tombs open to the public, one of the most beautiful is the Tomba dei Leopardi, with a rich banquet scene complete with dancers and musicians. End your Etruscan adventure at the superb Museo Archeologico Nazionale Tarquiniense in the pretty medieval town of Tarquinia.
Interior of an etruscan tomb in Tarquinia, Italy. Photo / Getty Images
Tuscia and Beyond
The corner of northern Lazio around Viterbo has a storied history and one that’s possible to trace through the region’s burial sites and forts, palaces and grand villas. This was once at the centre of Tuscia, the historical heartland of the Etruscans, whose civilisation reached its apogee in the 6th century BCE and whose legacy lives on in the area’s fortresses and necropolis sites. Conquered by the Romans then the Germanic Lombards, the region later became a papal state, with a succession of popes resident at the palazzo built for them in Viterbo. In the 16th and 17th centuries, palaces were built in Viterbo, Bomarzo, Caprarola, Bagnaia and Vignanello.
PRACTICALITIES
How to get there and get around
Rome’s two airports have flights from Europe and around the world; from the city centre, Viterbo is about an hour and a half’s drive to the northwest. Direct trains also run between Rome and Viterbo; journey time is about an hour and 40 minutes. It’s a 40-minute drive from Viterbo to Tarquinia.
Where to stay
At the end of a long pine-lined road, and surrounded by olive groves and fields, Tenuta di Paternostro (tenutadipaternostro.it), near Vetralla, offers five chic suites in the heart of a working farm that also offers equine therapy and wellness retreats.
Events
Among Tuscia’s traditional festivals, the most famous is the annual procession of the Macchina di Santa Rosa, an illuminated 30m-high tower built to honour Viterbo’s patron saint. On the evening of 3 September, a hundred men – known as Facchini di Santa Rosa – carry the macchina through the town; it’s a grand spectacle that’s included in Unesco’s Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity list.
Discover Vienna’s vines, Umbria’s hilltop towns or Oxford’s literary legends with this collection of 100 itineraries for short trips in Europe. Whether you’re seeking inspiration for city breaks, family escapes or outdoor adventures, this book has everything covered.
