Described as one of the ‘most upscale ski resorts’ in the US by court reporting, Thomas Bywater delivers his verdict
Gwyneth Paltrow was taken to court this week by a skier in a $300,000 case regarding an incident at the high-end Deer Valley ski resort.
The Oscar-winning actor and founder/CEO of lifestyle company Goop countersued the 76-year-old optometrist over the claim, in a trial that now has more twists and turns than the downhill course at the 2002 Salt Lake Olympics.
It features missing GoPro footage, celebrity, thousand-dollar court outfits and glamour that has been irresistible for the press. The hearing over the alleged collision, which happened seven years ago, is expected to last at least another week. Like Utah’s record snow season, it’s dragged out longer than anyone could have imagined.
At this stage, all that can be said for certain is that the resort at the centre of the case is not your usual resort. Having had the opportunity to ski all six of the peaks connected to the exclusive Utah resort, just last week, I can testify to that.
Described by court reporting as one of America’s “most upscale ski resorts”, Deer Valley in Utah is one of the last resorts in America that still bans snowboarders.
Famously, Jake Burton of Burton Snowboards put out a bounty on the “elitist” ski resort, offering to pay $5000 (and court costs) to anyone who could show photographic proof of them poaching a run in the resort’s 820-hectare boundaries.
Deer Valley the resort at the centre of Gwyneth Paltrow's trial, inset, is one of the US's most upmarket ski resorts. Photo / Alex Goodlett
Sat on the Silverlake Express, one of the 20 high-speed chairlifts, a snowboarder friend was turning white with envy. “My board! If only I had my board,” he said, looking at the resort which had received almost triple its annual snowfall. We were not after Burton’s bounty this time, borrowing a pair of sticks to see what the exclusive ski resort has to offer.
A 50-minute cab ride from Salt Lake City Airport, Deer Valley Resort sits in the Wasatch Mountains.
As Goop’s website notes, it is a convergence point for coastal Americans with cash to burn. “New Yorkers can be on the mountain by 1pm, and West Coasters can carve turns before lunch.”
Once a year the neighbouring Park City resort plays host to the world’s film stars and movie studios during the Sundance Film festival. January is essentially “Hollywood on Ice”.
However, even by these glitzy standards, Deer Valley is a cut above. The $4625 annual pass makes a season at Mt Hutt seem pretty reasonable.
To go back to Goop:
“Deer Valley Resort consistently tops lists for its customer service. In skiing parlance, that translates to on-site ski valets to help you unload your gear, immaculately groomed slopes, and well-appointed lodges.”
Stepping out of the car, first impressions are of equally well-groomed ski valets in Jager-green jackets, picking up your ski gear. Nothing makes you feel more self-conscious than someone else carrying your skis to the slope.
Skiing the cruisey groomers of Deer Valley Resort, Utah. Photo / Thomas Bywater
At the entrance guests are greeted by the gracefully slow funicular rail carriages, carrying them to the St Regis Hotel. That and a statue of Stein Eriksen.
Eriksen - a Norwegian gold-medal-winning Olympian, “godfather of freeskiing” and progenitor of the “Stein Turn” - made Deer Valley his home after World War II. Legend has it, as a teen in Nazi-occupied Oslo, he snuck out to the woods to perfect his ski technique. What a rebel.
He came to Utah for a fresh start in 1952, and was skiing almost up until his death six decades later at the age of 88.
Deer Valley has an interesting mix of “old country” imports from its assorted Alpine migrants.
The Montage Hotel at the centre of the Deer Valley Resort Salt Lake, Utah. Photo / Visit Utah
Der Goldener Hirsch, a faux Austrian Inn, is full of Kitzbuhel kitsch. Connected to mountainside residencies, via enclosed glass walkway, there’s a whiplash contrast between the folksy inn and the modern accommodation with heated rooftop pools. Not even the plentiful imported carpentry and antique alpenhorn can quite bring the two sides together. This hasn’t stopped the Gaststube from being named the “World’s Best Ski Boutique Hotel”, two years in a row.
Like the rest of the valley, the “Golden Stag” is a bit dear. It might be the only place I’ve seen a breaded Wiener schnitzel on the menu for $62 (US!). I’d still go back for another.
On the slopes you’re unlikely to see many people performing one of Stein Eriksen signature backflips.
Much of Deer Valley’s 103km of smooth groomers are suited to well-heeled skiers and grandchildren in ski school.
Locals (snowboarders) and die-hards with little time to shred are normally spread across the six other ski resorts, within an hour’s drive of Salt Lake City.
That’s not to say there isn’t any challenging terrain. I ate snow at the bottom of a very ungraceful descent of Daly Chutes and Daly Bowl, the resort’s two double-black diamond runs.
Der Goldener Hirsch hotel, Deer Valley. Photo / Thomas Bywater
I should have heeded the sign reading “No Easy Way Down” at the bottom of the Empire Express chair lift.
Deer Valley is of course famous as a celebrity getaway. Apart from defendant Paltrow, the Kardashians are all known fans of the resort and the anonymity afforded by a ski mask.
Although, pre-2020, Kanye West was reportedly seen skiing Deer Valley in a full-length mink coat.
The biggest secret, however, is found “off piste”.
More than half of the resort’s skiable terrain is through trees. Broad aspen groves which few guests ever ski. In spite of this, Deer Valley has some of the most mellow glades, bright clearings and easy gradients I encountered in Utah, which make it a perfect place to learn.
The silver trees are a uniquely North American ski experience.
The other open secret among locals is that some of the best skiing is to be had in January, when the film festival is in full swing. While you might struggle to find affordable accommodation the, slopes will be empty.
Sundance attendees don’t ski.
Skiing the Utah aspens in Deer Valley Resort. Photo / Thomas Bywater
How to ski upscale Deer Valley on a budget of $50 per day
An adult day lift pass costs US$430 mid-season.
For tourists wanting to sample the skiing on a longer trip, there are a number of visitor tickets that allow you into the resort.
