What I liked most about Washington DC's dining scene. Photo / Getty Images
Washington DC is famed for its national monuments and museums as well, of course, the White House. What you might not know is that the US city’s food and drink is exceptional, writes Madison Reidy
If you’re visiting the political amphitheatre of the United States, prepare to be impressed by the delicacies as much as the politics. From fresh seafood, to all-out Italian, DC delivers on all fronts.
If you feel the need to down a few drinks for democracy’s sake, Washington wins votes in that department too.
A stone’s throw from the White House and across the road from the Treasury Department (where pre-election economic calculations are made) is a bustling restaurant made of mahogany wood, booth seats, and the best steak you’ve ever had.
Old Ebbitt Grill is an institution. One can only imagine the agenda-altering discussions had across its white tablecloths over the decades.
Walk into its warmth on any week night and there’s a queue of suited professionals waiting for a table inside. It pays to book in advance, but if you don’t, it’s worth the wait.
Old Ebbitt does simple food, exceptionally well, with an emphasis on the highest quality produce.
Beginning with a raw bar, offering oysters from a Massachusetts marina to rivers in Maine, every morsel is tracked to its source and its flavour explained as such.
As your server may suggest, a mix from all of the above is available and what I went for. With a sour-over-sweet, lemon and honey and cocktail to top it off.
The list of entrees is extensive. I decided to keep it light to save room for the hearty mains, opting for a beets and burrata salad, topped with perfectly crunchy pistachio nuts.
For the main event, one cannot go past the steak frites, finished with a shallot-Dijon cream sauce. It’s apparently an entree size, but certainly enough for one on its own. With a deep red wine, this was the meal of my trip.
As Washington’s oldest saloon, its founding dates back to 1856. It’s called its current location home since 1983.
Old Ebbitt is part of the Clyde’s Restaurant Group, which took it over in the 1970s.
Its more relaxed restaurant The Hamilton is popular for its live music and sushi happy hour.
Filomena Ristorante
This underground adobe in Washington’s Georgetown suburb exudes Nonna’s charm with America’s confidence.
The diners on the table next to me put it best, saying: “I’ve never been this impressed with a restaurant before eating”.
It has a small street front for its large personality. Enter Filomena just off the main M street and walk down its steps to a dark but lively restaurant boasting laughter, chatter, and clinks of glasses by groups big and small.
The menu is embossed with the names of famous people who’ve dined here before, their favourite dishes in bold. I’m told it hasn’t been updated in 10 years - the menu wouldn’t fit in your hands if it included the latest list!
Founded by JoAnna Filomena, and named after her mother Filomena, this spot serves an extensive list of pasta and saucy mains such as ossobucco and parmigiana, with non-negotiable cheesecake desserts.
The restaurant is decorated with Filomena’s original furniture, antiques, and knick-knacks, with a dining room in the kitchen designated for fame and fortune only (ask for a tour!).
Wines from all over Italy and beyond are on offer. I ordered a glass of house Cabernet, but the waiter, Tom, knew I could do better. He impressed me with a bottle of something full-bodied and Sicilian. Trust Tom.
I had the homemade burrata, slow-cooked ragu pasta and finished with a slice of chocolate caramel cheesecake. The dishes improved in that order. They were all delightful and far too generous for me to finish.
Tables are tidied with a tradition. A crystal glass of liquor Sambuca or Amaretto, with three coffee beans dropped in each, representing good luck for health, wealth, and love.
And, because Nonna wouldn’t let you leave without takeaways, everyone exits with a doggie bag in hand.
Booking is essential. Filomena’s is a phenomenal vibe.
Via Sophia
If you needed another reason to believe DC does Italian as decent as New York City, this osteria underneath the Washington Post is delicious.
I happened upon this Italian restaurant by accident, and returned with the intention of a second time.
The duck ragu rigatoni (gluten-free) and crispy, buttered brussel sprouts with pine nuts and golden sultanas could be contenders to challenge New York’s Italian dining scene.
The location of this incredible osteria made me feel as though I could eavesdrop on important reporters readying for the election result.
Founding Farmers Fisher and Bakers
If you’re like me and feel like fresh food among the fried while travelling the US, this spot on the Washington Harbour in Georgetown will win your vote.
Open all day, every day, for breakfast, brunch, lunch, dinner and drinks, this farm-to-table restaurant facing Roosevelt Island serves real food made from scratch.
Kettle corn to calamari, cornbread and ceviche, this chain co-owned by more than 50,000 farmers traces ingredients back to their source.
Flour comes from North Dakota farmers, the meat from independently owned American farms and the cocktail spirits from a farmer-owned distillery in DC.
It was too early for me to test the latter, but I can vouch for the sustainably caught seafood and rainbow of vegetables that featured in the mixed cobb salad.
Eat good here while doing good. The business has a charity that funds sustainability efforts and supports neighbouring communities.
Drinks
Near Old Ebbitt Grill is the Willard InterContinental Hotel. Step into its fabulous and infamous hotel lobby, turn right and you’ll find yourself at the Round Robin Bar.
Dubbed the “Oval Office bar”, this iconic, circular bar has been a destination on DC’s drinking and dining scene since 1847.
Delivering classic cocktails and its signature Mint Julep, made famous here by former US Senator Henry Clay; try your luck for a seat in this typically crowded, must-see spot.
What I liked most about Washington’s hospitality:
Waiters wear suits. But diners can be as casual as they like.
Staff are typically very attentive to customers’ needs and any dietary requirements.
Tipping is typically priced into the final bill so there’s no need to guess how much is appropriate to tip after every meal.
Meals were not unreasonably large, unlike some other American states.
Checklist
WASHINGTON DC, US
GETTING THERE
Fly from Auckland to Ronald Reagan Washington National Airport via Los Angeles with Delta Airlines.
Madison travelled to Washington DC with hospitality from Destination DC, Delta Airlines and dined with hospitality by Destination DC and Old Ebbitt Grill.
To start planning your Washington DC adventure visit washington.org