Cruisy pace of life in the South Pacific

By SUE WALLACE

No one hurries in Port Vila, the capital of Vanuatu, which lies on the south-west coast of the island of Efate.

Walk to the sleepy capital, set within a magnificent natural harbour, and you will soon discover the pace is easy, the people are friendly and the shopping is good.

Port Vila is a potpourri of cultures, blending elements of Melanesian, English, French and Chinese tastes. Along the main street you will find duty-free shops, handicraft galleries, and T-shirts adorned with various logos and messages.

Floral shirts and grass skirts are everywhere and were soon snapped up for the Pacific Sky cruise ships' island night.

But the markets are where you discover the essence of the Ni-Vanuatu. Port Vila's markets come alive on Monday, Wednesday, Friday and Saturday from 6am to 1pm and are well worth a visit.

Wander through the rows of tropical fruit, vegetables, flowers, shells, coconut crabs - the island's delicacy - and souvenir stalls. Take a closer look at the vendors and you'll see how life is simple for most of them.

A good day at the markets brings its own rewards and there's plenty of laughing and singing after a boatload of tourists go on a spending spree. Take plenty of change and you will soon have your gift list completed.

Port Vila boasts many restaurants and cafes and the aroma of freshly brewed coffee and delicious pastries entice many in. Eat where the locals are and you will be rewarded.

French, Vietnamese, Chinese, Italian, Mexican, Thai, Melanesian and Mediterranean cuisine is offered. You can also buy an Aussie meat pie or an American chilli dog, but be adventurous and try the coconut crab.

We opted to explore the island and give our waistlines a break. To appreciate Vanuatu, head to the country - first stop was the Cascades waterfall, a great spot to cool off.

Just past the village of Mele Maat at the bottom of Klem's Hill, the Cascades provide an interesting combination of easy walking through light bush and a welcome swim.

It is a series of waterfalls and pools and for a few dollars, the locals will show you around and pose for photos.

A highlight of the stopover was a day cruise which took us to secluded coves and beaches of fine, white sand. The coral waters of the Sun and Moon Bay on Moso Island, not far off the main island, were spectacular and an unforgettable experience.

The fish are so tame they swim up for a feed and even though you know they are tourist-tamed, it makes a great photo so take along a disposable, underwater camera.

The biggest thrill was watching the dolphins surf beside the 23m ketch on the return trip.

Back in Port Vila, there was time for some last-minute shopping for more T-shirts before returning to the Pacific Sky.

Next stop was Noumea. It's great to know you really don't have to go to Paris for a French fix - it is right here in the South Pacific.

The Pacific Sky docked at 11pm and we couldn't resist the chance to walk around the streets and try out some basic French.

We had been warned that many of the locals shunned tourists and were rude but we were pleasantly surprised. They even indulged my schoolgirl French, which I regretted I hadn't paid more attention to.

There was plenty of French charm around, but few bargains. Unlike Port Vila, shopping is expensive and when you pick up a designer label T-shirt you know it is the real thing. Chanel, Versace, Pierre Cardin and other top-shelf designers were well represented.

But there was no charge for sitting in the Place des Coctiers, the town square, and people-watching - Noumea is home to 40 per cent of the total population of 200,000 who live in New Caledonia so there's plenty of scope.

As we left the ship next morning, croissants were on offer, which was a nice touch and encouraged everyone to try some basic French.

I couldn't resist asking "comment allez vous?" to a bus driver, who replied "I'm from Perth, luv - but I'm good all the same" and then burst out laughing.

One of the best ways to enjoy the city sights is aboard Le Petit Train which winds through the city at regular intervals. One look at the marina and the Nautical Club of Noumea and you'll soon see there's plenty of wealth in the city.

The best views are from the Ouen Toro and you'll be glad you aren't walking when you reach the top of the hill.

A visit to the Tjibaou Cultural Centre, known as the opera house of the South Pacific, is a must to see traditional and modern architecture in harmony.

The centre contains unique collections of Kanak and Pacific cultures and was named in recognition of the Kanak leader, Jean Marie Tjibaou, for his contribution to cultural development.

For a different look at Noumea, take a harbour cruise around the islands and waterways. The Baie de L'Orphelinat, with its magnificent views of Mont Venus, is stunning.

The cruise passes the Navy Base at Point Chaleix, the Baie des Citrons and the famous Anse Vata Beach - definitely where the well-heeled like to be seen.

But if you want to savour the French feel of Noumea, pop your head into the gourmet food shops. Patisseries, chocolate shops and boulangeries live up to the description of delightful decadence, with prices to match.

In contrast, take a trip down to the colourful city market in the early morning, where you will find fresh vegetables, meat, cheese and fruit at cheaper prices.

Once considered the backwater of France's Pacific colonies, Noumea is prospering.

After busy Noumea, the Isle of Pines is a welcome contrast. Perhaps the last thing passengers expect to see on a South Pacific cruise are lofty pine trees on a tropical island.

The island, which is only 18km long and 14km wide, has 1600 inhabitants and its sheer beauty leaves an impression. The best way to see it and to meet the Kanak locals is to walk or hire a bike.

You'll do your waistline a favour after all those cocktails and desserts enjoyed night after night on board ship and you'll get the chance to experience the lush countryside.

We landed at Kuto Bay, which lived up to its postcard-perfect reputation. Its long beach boasted fine, white sand that resembled talcum powder. It is the best of the island's beaches and attracts the most tourists as the beach is safe for swimming, clean and sheltered.

At dusk, islanders come to fish and are happy to show you their catch.

Behind Kuto Bay and just five minutes walk from the jetty is another beautiful bay, Kanumera Cove.

It is well known for its much-photographed coral rock, which sits amid waters of incredible blue tones. It is a sacred rock and tourists are asked not to climb on it, but you can swim nearby.

Snorkelling is popular and the brightly coloured fish seemed as inquisitive as I was.

After a five-minute sunbake to dry off, we set out to explore the Isle of Pines.

While most opted for taxis, we set off on a walk to the village of Vao, the island capital, armed with a backpack, water and plenty of film.

No one could tell us exactly how far it was but I knew it would burn up some unwanted kilojoules. First stop was a look at the convict ruins at Ouro.

The French built a penitentiary on the island to imprison the Paris Communards in 1872. More than 2000 prisoners were deported in the 1870s and the few prisoners who tried to escape drowned trying to get off the island.

A path leads to the cemetery - restored in 1968 - and there is a monument in memory of those who died in exile.

Life moves slowly on the Isle of Pines and our pace slackened as we enjoyed the views of the many pine-covered islets.

It's the colour of the water that caught our eye - superb shades of green and blue that sparkled in the sunlight.

Traffic was minimal and trucks passed us carrying friendly Kanaks who waved as we continued on. Seat belts and road rules didn't seem to exist, but what was obvious was the warmth of the islanders.

Lots of guesthouses were apparent along the way, which seemed like perfect havens for those wanting to get away from the rat race.

Just when I was beginning to think we would never get to Vao, I saw the church steeple.

It was lunchtime for a nearby kindergarten and cute Kanak children came out and played on the lawn, eager to have their photographs taken.

A food van offered sandwiches and refreshments but we opted for fruit. We then decided to walk back to the Pacific Sky, believing the hike would create a healthy appetite for dinner.

A local walked a little way with us and told of his life in Vao, his family and friends. His parents ran a small guest house, which attracted backpackers seeking a few days' holiday on the island.

The only trouble was, according to our friend, the days turned into weeks as they fell under the island's spell.

As we neared the ship, islanders had prepared a bougna, a traditional Melanesian dish usually reserved for weddings or a feast which was similar to a hangi.

It consisted of vegetables, chicken or fish which had been covered with coconut milk, wrapped in banana leaves then cooked over hot stones in the ground.

That night back on board, the dinner bell rang and we fronted for yet another five-course dinner and cocktails, but this time we really felt as if we had earned it.