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Home / Travel

Cruise: Mercury rising

Susan Buckland
Herald on Sunday·
10 Dec, 2008 07:00 PM3 mins to read

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Monterey is Mercury's first port of call. Photo / Susan Buckland

Monterey is Mercury's first port of call. Photo / Susan Buckland

KEY POINTS:

Short voyages of seven to 14 days that take in exotic ports have opened up a world of cruising to those whose busy careers leave them time-poor.

Celebrity is one of a growing number of cruise companies which cater for such people. I stepped aboard Mercury, one of
the Celebrity fleet, for a week-long meander up the northwest Pacific coast of the United States to Vancouver, Canada.

We departed from San Francisco, a city so vibrant we wished we had more than an hour to explore it. More time to people-watch in Union Square, explore shops, visit museums and watch the deceptively languid seals at Fisherman's Wharf.

Once on board the ship, initial fears that I might be trapped on a floating skyscraper full of Hi-de-Hi!-campers quickly evaporated.

There was more than enough room for Mercury's 1600 passengers in the several bars, lounges, restaurants and recreational areas.

Passengers are spoilt for entertainment and dining choices, with espresso coffee cafes, a casino, night club, pool, spa and library. And to mitigate the effects of five-course dinners you can head for the gym.

Good business amenities are on tap, too. Mercury has internet access and it's impossible to remain out of touch - unless you decline the ship's offer of an email account for the time you are on board.

After sailing away from San Francisco, we headed to Monterey. Blessed with a balmy climate, rich history and reputable wines, it's small wonder that star residents have gravitated to the region - including Clint Eastwood, who bought a chunk of well-heeled Pebble Beach and eventually became its mayor.

Mercury turned north again for a day and night at sea before reaching Astoria in northern Oregon.

Named after America's first millionaire, John Jacob Astor, Astoria opens the way to Oregon's famously scenic coast and resembles a mini San Francisco with tiers of tall, wooden houses rising from the banks of the Colombia River.

After leaving Astoria, we faced another 24 hours on board Mercury before
docking at Seattle.

On a clear day, a must-do is to head straight for the Space Needle where you'll be rewarded with terrific views of the city. Leave time, too, for a visit to the contemporary Music Project Museum and the Boeing Aircraft Museum.

After Seattle, we set off for Victoria on Vancouver Island. Here, you can't start a shore trip without a cup of tea and cakes at the Empress Hotel - a charming English transplant that presides like a dowager on the waterfront. The compact city is a perfect size for exploring on foot.

Then, take a bus or taxi to reach the glorious Butchart Gardens, just a few kilometres out of town.

We enjoy another night of luxury on board Mercury before reaching Vancouver, the final port of call.

The public ferry from Victoria to Vancouver may take only 90 minutes, but we're happy to cruise slowly past the many islands separating the two cities.

Cradled by mountains and rising above a deep harbour, Vancouver is a beautiful city. Its far-sighted 19th-century governor general, Lord Stanley, gave the city a park that occupies almost as much land as the city.

From Gastown, the oldest section, to Yaletown - the contemporary enclave of boutiques, galleries and restaurants - this is a city to savour.

It's also a fitting spot to end a short but spectacular cruise.

Susan Buckland travelled to San Francisco with the assistance of Air New Zealand.

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