A weekend in Coromandel town, with its old-fashioned Kiwi charm, makes for a refreshing getaway, writes Sarah Lawrence.
The waitresses of Coromandel don't stand on ceremony. At one cafe we watched as the fish of the day, held aloft, was carried out the door and up the road to a fellow shopkeeper; at another we were served by a lady in gumboots who made a mean milkshake.
It's this kind of old-fashioned Kiwi charm that identifies Coromandel town and made it such a refreshing getaway for me and my 10-year-old son, Jack. The town is still immersed in its colourful history and the proud locals seem determined to keep it that way. Shops on the main street seem virtually untouched from the days when goldminers inhabited the area. Locals wave out to each other and shopkeepers stop for a chat between customers. The pace is sleepy and relaxed.
We chose a leisurely way of getting there too. Instead of driving we took advantage of the ferry that departs from downtown Auckland. The two-hour trip is quicker than if we'd battled traffic out of Auckland on a wet winter evening, and we could enjoy a drink and read while someone else did the driving. Returning to Auckland on a calm, sunny Sunday was as scenic a boat ride as any in the world.
On our first morning we set off on a guided tour to Port Jackson at the tip of the peninsula, followed by a three-hour hike to Stony Bay, just north of Port Charles. Our guide, Barbara Peddie from Coromandel Discovery Tours, was full of fascinating information about Coromandel's history and geography, told well enough to keep even a 10-year-old enthralled. The hillside walk isn't difficult, but it's good to take advantage of the rest spots while enjoying the breathtaking view out to sea.
