KEY POINTS:
You might have to wait a wee while at the much-maligned Kopu Bridge, but think of it as a marker between the real world and paradise.
Drive slowly over the 80-year-old, one-lane bridge and leave your worries behind you. The Coromandel Peninsula awaits you with its astonishing scenery, cruisey pace and endless opportunities for R&R.
You don't have to wait long to get the feel of the Coromandel. Turn right at Kopu and then left onto the Kopu-Hikuai road, one of the great drives in New Zealand. This beautifully constructed road curves its way up and over the Coromandel Range with glorious views of craggy peaks, bush-clad valleys and meandering rocky streams.
The bush is so close in many places, you can just about touch it, but take time to get up close and personal. Explore a stream or walk to see the Devicich kauri, the peninsula's ninth biggest, near the summit.
At Hikuai, take the road opposite the turn-off to Pauanui and it's a short drive to Broken Hills, one of the lesser visited gems of the peninsula. Lying beside the gentle Tairua River, this Department of Conservation Forest Park reeks of history.
Around the turn of the 20th century, the gold-mining settlement of Puketui sprang up in the Broken Hills gorge. By 1912 the hills were being extensively mined and there were 200 people living along the river. Puketui had shops, a hall and a post office.
Two years later, however, production at the mines tailed off, the miners moved on and the settlement slowly fell into ruin. Today there's little sign of it but the park is full of relics of mining and kauri logging.
Much of the land was cleared but regenerating bush includes some lovely plants, predominantly manuka, rewarewa, five-finger, red matipo and totara. Some remnants of mature podocarp forest remain, including a few kauri.
There are a number of signposted tracks, ranging from easy walking paths to hiking routes and a small, unserviced camping area. Near the Puketui end of the park, the river runs through a spectacular gorge, providing a great spot for kayaking. The river also offers opportunities for trout fishing and swimming.
After a picnic lunch by the river, head north to Hot Water Beach, about 15 minutes drive from the Whenuakite turn-off on State Highway 25, and visit Moko ArtSpace & Sculpture Garden.
Artists Sonya Corlett and Simon Buchanan have created a stylish, Pacific-themed gallery and garden that features the work of many Coromandel artists, as well as other New Zealanders. The tropical garden is the perfect setting for some extraordinary Indonesian glass sculptures.
If you're ready for coffee, try Hot Waves Cafe just down the road from Moko.
By now you'll need to head to Whitianga for the night. The once-unassuming seaside town has had a phenomenal growth spurt in recent years and there is a wide range of accommodation, restaurants and cafes.
If you have children, bring their bikes and take them to the new Moewai Adventure Park, near the airfield, where there are bike trails, walks, and a petanque court. Or visit the revamped Mercury Bay Museum opposite the wharf.
In the morning, head for Kuaotunu and then out along Black Jack Rd to beautiful Otama and Opito Beaches. Swim in the lovely clear water and, if you're feeling energetic, walk up to the top of the hill at the southern end of Opito for great views over Mercury Bay.
Lunch at the Castle Rock Winery near Whangapoua and travel on to Coromandel town, where the past is lovingly preserved - from the colonial era through to its hippie days. Again there is a wide range of accommodation.
You can spend the afternoon exploring the art and craft shops, trying the excellent products at the Coromandel Smoking Co and generally soaking up the atmosphere. Or take a tour around three great gardens: Taraire Grove Gardens just north of the town, Waitati Gardens in town and Waiau Waterworks on the iconic 309 Rd just south of the town.
In the evening, consider a sunset cruise on the lovely launch Clematis, which operates out of Oamaru Bay and tours the coast and off-shore islands. Dine on fish and chips at one of the Coromandel pubs or go up-market and visit the popular Peppertree Restaurant.
Unfortunately you have to go home the next day but give yourself time to enjoy another great drive, down the coast to Thames where a new walkway through what is thought to be New Zealand's oldest arboretum has just opened. William Hall Reserve contains a collection of nationally and internationally significant trees that were grown from seedlings in the early 1870s.
The reserve is located off Mount Sea Rd, from Parawai Rd, and affords amazing views over the Firth of Thames.
