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Home / Travel

Cold comfort in ancient lands

NZ Herald
31 Oct, 2008 02:00 AM5 mins to read

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The lobby of Budapest's sumptuous art nouveau Four Seasons Hotel gives a clue to its elegance, but a room for the night will set you back around $700. Photo / Supplied

The lobby of Budapest's sumptuous art nouveau Four Seasons Hotel gives a clue to its elegance, but a room for the night will set you back around $700. Photo / Supplied

KEY POINTS:

I am planning to spend a week each in Prague and Budapest in January, and hoping to travel between the two cities. I will be travelling alone and wonder if you have any advice on accommodation in either city and the best way to travel? Helen Fletcher

Train is the best way to travel in winter, tucked up snug and warm in your EuroCity carriage as you pass through the snow-covered countryside of the Czech Republic, Slovakia and Hungary.

The train trip from Prague to Budapest takes around eight hours, there are frequent services daily and, unlike flying, you'll arrive in central Budapest rather than out in the boondocks.

The one-way train fare is about $115; bus is cheaper (about $70) but not as comfortable. If you choose to fly, it's a one-hour flight and one-way fares start at around $220 with Malev, Czech Airlines or the low-cost operator Smart Wings.

Both Prague and Budapest are simply perfect for wandering and soaking up the atmosphere. Prague's major sights include Prague Castle and its surrounding churches and squares, St Nicholas Church, the lovely Charles Bridge, the jumbled Old Town and Wenceslas Square in the New Town (well, newer than the Old Town but dating back to 1348).

Budapest's main attractions are focused on central Buda, including medieval Castle Hill above the Danube, the neo-Gothic churches and lovely city squares, and the city's notable Roman ruins.

For accommodation, check out Lonely Planet's hotel booking service.

Have a look at the pink-pillared Hotel Da Vinci, rooms from $120; or olde-worlde Hotel Tchaikovsky, rooms from $260 near Wenceslas Square; the grand Danubius Hotel Gellert, rooms from $155; or centrally located Hotel City Ring, rooms from $140 in Budapest.

While travelling, keep in contact with your family, let them know your accommodation and dates of travel, keep your wits about you and read up about any scams to look out for on Lonely Planet's Thorn Tree travel forum.

Shanghai surprise
I am fortunate to be travelling to Shanghai with a small delegation of business people for five days of intensive trade show attendance and business meetings. Given that I have never visited China previously, I am contemplating taking an extra couple of days on my own to explore Shanghai and/or its surrounds to experience a little taste of its people, culture and flavours. Do you have any suggestions on must-sees and must-dos, and how best to go about achieving this economically? Brett Edmonds

While it can't match the epic history of Beijing or Xi'an's grander sights, Shanghai is a scintillating city swirling with rapid cultural change.

Your introduction to Shanghai might begin with a stroll on the Bund, Shanghai's most famous mile. It's at its best in the early morning and evening, and provides fascinating insights into the city's architectural heritage with its Romanesque, Gothic renaissance and art deco buildings.

The Shanghai Museum is a must-see and you can expect to spend at least half a day there.

For a different perspective, you can enjoy sweeping views of the Bund from the skyscraper-filled Pudong side of the river; to get there, trains ferry you through a tunnel between the Bund and the opposite shore. While on this side of the river, visit the Jinmao tower, China's tallest building, and stop off for a drink at the Cloud 9 Bar on the 87th floor.

Shanghai's other great attractions are the fascinating Old Town and the Yuyan Gardens, a fine example of Ming Dynasty garden design with shaded alcoves, carp-filled pools and pretty pavilions.

Other activities include dining out in the old French quarter, taking an evening cruise on the river, shopping on Nanjing Rd and joining in the early-morning tai chi in the People's Park.

If you'd like to take a day trip out of town, you could visit the water villages of the Yangtze Delta or the garden city of Suzhou.

Taking a guided tour will be your best bet, and you could also consider taking a half- or full-day guided tour of Shanghai. Ask at your hotel about recommended tours or have a look at the tours offered online by companies such as Viator.

Before heading off, have a read of the Ministry of Foreign Affairs & Trade's travel advisory for China at safetravel.govt.nz.

Going with the flow
We are thinking of a stop-off in Hawai'i on our way over to San Francisco to visit friends, and we intend to spend most time on the Big Island. I'm particularly interested in visiting a volcano. Can we self-guide (we will be hiring a car)? Swift Paterson

The Hawai'i Islands Volcanoes National Park is home to three active volcanoes and a geological history dating back 70 million years. There are over 225km of trails here, from easy walks to extreme summit hikes.

Kilauea is the youngest and most active volcano, not only in the park but in the world. If you're lucky, you'll see lava ribbons pouring into the sea.

You could easily spend a few days exploring the Hawai'i Islands Volcanoes National Park, but in half a day you can drive around 18km Crater Rim Drive, which encircles Kilauea Caldera, and take the Chain of Craters Rd, which meanders through a bizarre black landscape. Make sure you visit the Thurston Lava Tube and do the Kilauea Iki 6.4km loop hike.

The most spectacular sight here, however, is flowing lava. To find out about lava flows, weather and air quality and guided walks, go to the Kilauea Visitor Centre before you set off or call the park hotline (ph: 985 6000). The stunning 25-minute Kilauea Volcano documentary shown at the visitor centre is worth seeing, too.

ASK LONELY PLANET
Lonely Planet experts are available to answer questions from readers. Email: travel.info@lonelyplanet.com. They may not answer all questions and cannot correspond directly with readers or give advice outside the column.

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