Coasting along in the Wairarapa

Fancy experiencing the great outdoors, but not keen on the effort or the deprivation often involved? JOHN HUTTON knows just the walk for you.

I admit it: I have fallen into decadence. Although my decline took three days, I knew within minutes of arriving at south Wairarapa's Tora Coastal Walk that I was on the slippery slope from idealism and self-discipline to comfort and self-indulgence.

To be honest, I had been flirting with temptation ever since I made our booking for the walk.

The alluring brochure offered me a de-stressing adventure through beautiful bush, over fertile farmland and along a stunning coastline. It enticed me further with assurances of civilised accommodation every night and, as a final act of seduction, promised that my pack would be transported for me.

Pack-free tramping - is this even ethical?

We arrive late one afternoon at the Elworthy farm, 30km south-east of Martinborough, and pull up alongside the Outstation, the original musterer's hut.

Actually, hut is a misnomer. This comfy old house would be regarded as a major upgrade if it was offered to my university student children as a flat. Fresh home baking and the requirements for a much-needed cuppa greet us in the cosy kitchen. Clearly, we are going to be spoilt.

Our hosts, Kiri and Kathryn Elworthy, drop by for a chat and to brief us on our expedition. They soon seem like old friends and their enthusiasm for this venture is infectious.

From small beginnings about five years ago, the Tora Walk has quickly gained a reputation for providing a comprehensive experience of New Zealand landscapes, including farming hill country, coastal scenery, river valleys and native bush. Increasing numbers of families, groups of friends and overseas visitors of all ages have enjoyed the exercise, fresh air and the warm hospitality of the host couples along the way.

The arrangements are impressive. Each night's accommodation has a fully equipped kitchen (including the can-opener we always forget), hot showers, flush toilets and civilised essentials such as milk, tea and coffee. All you supply is clothing, a sleeping bag, a small day pack and food for three days' meals.

Planning your meals is also hassle-free. Since luggage is transported for you (a combination of packs and a food box works well), it's goodbye pasta and hello steaks, perhaps with some wine to wash them down. And if you want to be really decadent, you can virtually forget about food altogether, as you can opt to have your food provided on the first and third days.

As if these physical comforts aren't enough, the hospitality and helpfulness of the host families along the way adds a special touch that turns the walk into an experience.

So it is with keen anticipation next morning that we say goodbye to our pack and foodbox, and set out across the hills.

At six hours (18km), the first day is the longest and most strenuous. The track often follows ridges across open farmland and has a reputation for being a tad breezy at times. The wind-powered generators on a nearby ridge aren't there for nothing. Nevertheless, whether you end up revelling in or wrestling with the elements, it's a good day's workout with many splendid views.

Mid-afternoon, we descend to cosy Karaka Cottage where our pack and foodbox are waiting for us. The cottage is a rambling coastal bach nestled against the bush. Lacking electricity, it features a woodrange stove for hot water, plus gas cooking, fridge and lighting (although we go all romantic and use candles).

Our hosts, Debbie and Mike Doyle, pop in to lavish more lashings of country hospitality on us.

In contrast to the rigours of the first day, Day 2 is a welcome 7km stroll along the coast.

After lingering over a lazy breakfast, we wander down the beach to inspect a 1926 wreck of a ship - whose captain badly misjudged the location of Wellington Harbour - then amble north towards to Jenny and Chris Bargh's comfortable accommodation at Greentops.

There's ample time for beachcombing, watching a seal colony, and picnicking. Alternatively, the cafe crowd can stop at Shirley's Coastal Garden for a coffee and a muffin.

Apparently some walkers feel under-exercised when they reach Greentops and elect to climb an adjacent hill to enjoy some spectacular coastal views.

Instead, I choose to enjoy Jenny's spectacular coastal home baking, which I find alongside our pack and foodbox.

Our last day dawns glorious and sunny, reflecting how we feel. This walk is doing us a power of good.

De-stressed and refreshed, we head up the Oterei River valley to an easy bush climb for some magnificent vistas, then descend along a pleasant bush walk beside a refreshing stream to arrive, a gently paced six hours later, back at the Outstation - where our pack and foodbox are waiting for us, in decadent splendour.

CASE NOTES

COSTS: The three-day walk costs $120 (children $65) including pack cartage and three nights' self-contained accommodation.

Up to 12 people a group. Suitable for people of all ages with moderate fitness. Meal option $40 a day for days 1 and 3.

CONTACT: Bookings are essential. Call Jenny Bargh on (06) 307 8862 or fax (06) 307 8867. E-mail: torawalk@wise.net.nz

READING: For details of similar walks, read Secrets Worth Sharing - Private Walking Tracks in NZ by Walter Hirsh.