Clarke Gayford: What NZ seafood is all about

Peter Gordon and Clarke Gayford, at Homeland, Auckland. Photo / Mike Bhana

This week marks the end of our latest series of Fish of the Day on screen in New Zealand and our 50th show. In past seasons we split 10 shows between New Zealand and the Pacific Islands but in these unusual times, a last-minute pivot saw us exploring more of what NZ has to offer. It was a chance to go places I'd not been before and added significantly to my knowledge of what this truly remarkable country has tucked away in quiet corners.

A small silver lining is that all these NZ-focused shows will screen as a National Geographic series playing in more than 80 countries next year. So to wrap it up, I'd like to share a couple of recipes that are a great snapshot of what we are all about.

The first is by the legend himself, Mr Peter Gordon. Lockdown provided Peter with some dangerous idle time and although there were no prior plans, his newest project, Homeland, which is in the old Mantells on the Water in Auckland's Wynard Quarter, has sprung to life.

It is described as a NZ food embassy and Peter's inclusive nature is borne out here, with a venue that is a combination of cooking school, community meeting place and unique dining experience. We cooked the very first meal here, while surrounded by builders still putting the place together - a special gurnard and scallop dish just in time for summer. Peter's goal, like ours, is to celebrate NZ's best produce and to share those experiences with all.

Peter Gordon's gurnard and scallop with salsa. Photo / Mike Bhana

The second dish is by chef and co-owner Tom Hishon of Auckland's new Kingi restaurant. For years I've been encouraging people to step outside of their seafood comfort zones and try something new. Kingi has embraced this ethos wholeheartedly and has one of the most refreshing seafood menus I've ever seen in New Zealand.

The standout dish for me was the aged kahawai sashimi. The process of dry-ageing fish is enjoying a resurgence. It's an ancient eastern technique designed to make fish last longer. By ageing the fish over seven to 10 days, its muscle and sinew all soften and the fat under the skin renders more flavour into the flesh. The result is kahawai like you've never tasted before, a true celebration of this oft-overlooked fish's potential. The process was so simple that it has even inspired me to convert an old fridge to begin ageing my own.

Clarke Gayford is the host of Fish of the Day on TV3. Catch the final episode, tonight at 5.25pm.

Kahawai, hanging to be dry aged. Photo / Mike Bhana

Seared kumukumu (gurnard) with scallop and salsa ceviche

Peter Gordon, Homeland

Serves 2

1 large gurnard, filleted and pin-boned, skin on
4-6 scallops, depending on size
½ avocado, diced
2 asparagus, peel the base then thinly slice the whole thing
2 small kawakawa leaves (or use 8 basil leaves)
4 Vietnamese mint leaves (or use 10 regular mint leaves)
2cm thinly sliced lemongrass from the soft centre of the stem
½ red chilli, finely chopped
½ tsp lemon zest
Juice of ½ lemon
½ sweet crunchy apple, julienned
½ tsp chilli oil – I used one made by an Auckland producer called Banu's that also contains peanuts and sesame seeds
1 lime

Method:

Season and lightly oil the gurnard fillets.
Remove the roe from the scallop and dice.
Gently mix the roe with the avocado, asparagus, kawakawa, Vietnamese mint, lemongrass and chilli.
Stir in lemon zest, juice and a little sea salt.
Slice the scallops in half to give you two circles and lay on two plates.
Heat a heavy-based pan over medium-high heat. Add gurnard fillets, skin side down, and cook 2 minutes (less for smaller fish).
Turn and cook to caramelise the white flesh.
Place on plate next to the scallops, top with apple and the salsa. Drizzle with chilli oil.
Grate lime zest on top, squeeze with lime juice and sprinkle with a little flaky sea salt

Aged kahawai sashimi

Tom Hishon, Kingi

I purchase fish from independent fishers from around the country, caught by hook and line and processed with care. For the kahawai, this includes being bled, iki jime (having the brain spiked) and stored on ice. These steps are arguably the most important as it keeps the fish's blood from influencing the flavour of its flesh, as kahawai are endothermic.

I created this recipe one summer when staying at a friend's bach on Waiheke. There was no wasabi in sight so I gave a lonely jar of Colmans the opportunity to step up to the plate. This dish is now a staple on the menu at Kingi and it represents many things that I love about the ocean, our way of life and the fish itself, kahawai.

You can still try this dish with freshly caught kahawai, just make sure it is bled, ikied and put on ice first.

Dry aging

Scale, gut and hang the fish from the tail using a butcher's hook in a refrigerated chiller with circulating air for 7-10 days. This storage method keeps the exterior of the fish dry so there is virtually no odour. Moisture is drawn away from the fish because of the cold circulating air and humidity control. Fat is the most important factor for dry ageing any protein. With moisture removed slowly over a period of a week, the depth of flavour is heightened and the fish becomes more delicate in the mouth.

Chef Tom Hishon, co-owner of Kingi. Photo / Mike Bhana

Method:

Begin the following process once the whole fish has been aged for 3-10 days. Keep your work surface, board and knife clean, and fillet the fish with care using long, slow cuts so as to not damage the flesh.

Remove the skin and blood line of each of the fillets then store them on a covered tray in the chiller.

Not everyone has a sashimi knife but here are few tips to get you a good result.

When slicing the fish use a long sharp knife. If right-handed have the tail of the fillet running left to right and what would've been the skin side facing down. Ideally we're looking to get a piece that is between 2mm and 3mm in thickness. You want to cut against the grain of the fish so hold the knife at a 45-degree angle to both the board and the knife's blade. If none of this makes sense, then just slice the fish thinly into a medallion and have a go!

Serve with Colman's mustard and white soy sauce.

Aged kahawai sashimi, Kingi. Photo / Supplied