KEY POINTS:
Rugbying and beer are still going strong in Christchurch. In the Queen City, a trip to the races may be more about silks, heels and champers. But there's no doubt that New Zealand Cup and Show Week down south is one big party. Unless you're an errant journalist, that is.
There I was, invited along to check out the fun, only to find I'd been landed with a pass stating: "Media: NO ALCOHOL to be served."
Funny way to treat your guest, I thought, when all around me at Addington Raceway - and we're talking lunchtime - the punters were already showing the effects of one or two too many. Turns out a few bad eggs connected to my not-so-esteemed profession had pilfered passes in the past and fairly rolled around the birdcage.
So I did what any sneaky journo would do; I hid my pass and blended into the crowd to check out the biggest day of Christchurch's biggest week. There was All Black captain Richie McCaw, there were a few of his queue-jumping rugby mates in the beer tent, and there was the usual ruck of pretty lasses trying to get close.
About now, Melbourne may be getting over the hangover from its annual racing party, but Cantabrians know they have to pace themselves, because there's a lot on offer over the next few days.
First comes the New Zealand Cup at Addington (harness-racing), then the thoroughbreds, then the dogs, then back to the trots, winding up on the Saturday with the other New Zealand Cup (the gallops) at Riccarton.
The week actually kicked off early with racing last weekend and Style Christchurch fashion shows on Friday and Saturday, then a top line-up at the South Island's biggest multi-stage music festival, Southern Amp, on Sunday. There's also the country's only international rodeo event next Saturday.
In between the main races, Canterbury's annual A&P show runs (this year basking in the glow of its new status as a Royal Show).
The combination of events explains why the shindig's official title is the New Zealand Cup and Show Week. The show alone draws well over 100,000 visitors and today's cup meeting will lure more than 25,000 punters.
The gallops at Riccarton are a more restrained affair with lower stakes, but the 2000 Guineas has a glamour $1 million purse.
Right now central Christchurch is chocka, with parking hard to find and space at a premium in the city's nightspots.
Moleskins and aertex shirts are still in evidence, but that look is rapidly being overtaken by the international uniform of race-course chic: natty suits and, more curiously, cocktail dresses tarted up with a fascinator and some strappy sandals (curiouser still when a southerly whips through and blows said skirts sky-high).
This year I spent Melbourne Cup partying at Ellerslie, but last year I was at Addington for Christchurch's Cup Week and, once I'd gotten over the booze ban, I had a real knees-up of a time.
Christchurch City Council has again got behind the events, turning on free entertainment around town to keep the punters happy whatever happens on-track. The Casino is pumping and the shops are in festive mode.
And as much as Auckland Cup Week is making a mark in its new March home, for the next best thing to Melbourne-style madness, Christchurch is it. Even Ellerslie's racing ambassador, Bridget O'Sullivan, admits to buying some of her race-day hats down south (The Hat Shop in Victoria St is a great place to start).
For serious race fans, this is an important week that attracts plenty of out-of-towners, including a bevy of Australians who come to check out the equine action.
The Aussies were in residence at my hotel; the roomy central-city Crown Plaza overlooking Victoria Park, and they were also in vocal evidence around town. Even the usually restrained Cantabrians find full voice during Cup Week, discussing where to meet up. Ask for some local insight and you'll probably get invited to join in too - as long as your fake tan doesn't send out an Auckland alarm.
Of course, there's plenty to check out around Christchurch with or without Cup Week - from the arts precinct, museum and botanic gardens to the growing cafe scene and city boutiques.
SoL Square (South of Lichfield) is the newish heart of town and a good place for socialising and dining. If you want to take in some scenery, you can bus out to the seaside settlements of Sumner or Lyttelton for lunch or pick up a rental and extend your stay by a few nights to take in Akaroa or Kaikoura.
But one thing's for sure - if you do travel south for Cup Week, you'll need stamina. Today's Cup Day will start with champagne brunches all over town and by the time you blag your way into a boot party at the members' carpark at Riccarton, you'll be worn out.
Cantabrians cherish the country fair flavour of Cup Week celebrations. From the packed Lindauer Lawn at Addington to the crowds spilling out of bars in the wee small hours, the only exclusivity is in the stories you hear on the local grapevine, rather than read in the Sunday social pages. Like the one about the All Black who ... but hey, I'm a Christchurch girl at heart, so I'm not telling.
Janetta Mackay was a guest of the Christchurch City Council.
Further information: If you aren't already in Christchurch you've probably left it a bit late to attend this year's New Zealand Cup and Show Week. But it's not too soon to plan ahead for the 2009 event which will be held from November 6-14.
Package deals for flights and accommodation will be available nearer the date on the official website. co.nz, or check out that website and bethere.co.nz for a 2008 overview.
