First-time visitors have plenty of options in China's capital, writes Janetta Mackay.
The plastic carrier bag imprint says Climb the Great Wall, Eat Peking Duck, Do Shopping at Silk Market. It's a cheaper guide than many and the advice is as good as any on Beijing's popular tourist attractions. Throw in a couple of other drawcards and, for a first-time visitor, you've covered the capital city bases.
Beijing may lack the vibrant, bustling feel of some other big Asian cities, but it is unmatched in being at the centre of change and this, combined with the weight of its past, makes it a compelling destination.
The Great Wall
Perfect bricks and mortar attest to recent rebuilding, so the initial impression is a little disappointing, but do set off uphill for more of a sense of what the wall was about. The going is uneven, with cobbled steps varying widely in depth, leading to ramparts and fortified lookouts. Being built along jagged ridge lines means its demarcation is steeply exaggerated.
The most accessible sections are at busy Badaling, which is serviced by public transport (as is further afield Mutianyu), and the slightly closer and quieter Juyong Pass, is little more than 90 minutes from the heart of Beijing.
As at most popular Chinese sites, you will be surrounded by domestic tourists and, because there's not a lot of detailed English signs, swot up first or consider going on a guided tour. These are widely available through hotels and can be doubled-up with other attractions for a time-efficient day out.
Peking duck
Once strictly a treat for the Imperial Court, crispy skinned Peking Duck wrapped in mini-crepes became more widely available in the 19th century. Quanjude is considered the original specialist restaurant and there is now a chain of them, with the first, set up in 1864, still going strong.
For a more modern upmarket take, check out Duck de Chine, which draws a trendy crowd and requires bookings for its set menu's multicourse treat costing around $100.
Imposing figures greet diners at Duck de Chine restaurant. Photo / Supplied
Beijing is known for the variety of its snack food, making it easy to eat cheaply and well.
The night stalls around tourist-central Wangfujing St are good starting points. Skewered scorpions and starfish attract attention, but there are numerous more palatable dishes, including shao-mai, or pork dumplings, which are a specialty of the north.
Market shopping
For visitors put off by the shoving and shouting of Asian markets, the renowned Silk and Pearl Market is a more mannered affair housed indoors. Stallholders are under instruction not to chase shoppers and bargaining is good-natured. "Designer" and label sports gear and standard-issue gift items can be knocked down hard, but don't expect to get the good stuff for next to nothing. On the upper levels this includes strings of pearls, silk paintings, homewares, silk duvet sets and quality, fashionable, cashmere garments. Silk Market is at 8 Xiushui Dongjie, Chaoyang District.
Ask your hotel to book a taxi, advise on rates and provide you with a return address card printed in Chinese for the trip back.
Forbidden City
Ticket sales stop at 4pm, harking back to the time of day when the Imperial Court went into lockdown, ensuring the Emperor was the only man - eunuchs excepted - who could sleep over. No wonder, what with as many as 3000 royal wives and concubines in residence.
If you've seen The Last Emperor, the 1987 film shot here by Bernardo Bertolucci, you will have a good idea of the elaborate rituals of court life, but wandering across the vast complex, with its series of pavilions, only underlines what a labyrinthine world it was. Unmissable.
Main courtyard at Forbidden City, Beijing. Photo / Jim Eagles
Easy too, to add on a look at nearby Tiananmen Square and, if you are a history buff, make time for the monumental National Museum, which overlooks it and houses treasures that date back to the time of Peking man.
The Forbidden City is at 4 Jingshanqian St, Dongcheng District. Tickets cost Y60 a person (about $12.50) and can be bought at the gate. However, at weekends and on holidays expect a long queue.
798 Arts District
At the centre of the Arts District is the Flat White Cafe, named thus because its owner, Michal Hongfu, spent time in Auckland. It's a good place to refuel mid-walk around this former warehouse district, which is now home to artists' studios, art galleries and craft sellers. The area's relaxed boutique vibe attracts plenty of young Chinese and increasing numbers of Westerners, with several multinational companies moving their offices here away from skyrocketing CBD rents.
Among the arts crowd, the commercialisation evokes mixed reactions but, with the world-class Ullens Centre for Contemporary Art at its heart, 798 remains a drawcard. Work by the best-known Chinese contemporary artists costs a fortune, but you can pick up handmade gifts, posters and cards cheaply.
Getting there: Cathay Pacific, in conjunction with Dragonair, offers a daily one-stop service from Auckland to Beijing via Hong Kong.
Where to stay: A stay at the Peninsula Beijing starts from $318 a night for a superior room (inclusive). The hotel arranges guided and personalised tours and runs classes for guests. 8 Goldfish Lane, Wangfujing.
The writer travelled courtesy of Cathay Pacific and stayed as a guest of the Peninsula Beijing.
