Chilling out in the lap of luxury

By KATHY OMBLER

Palliser Bay, one of the most exposed and windswept coastlines in the country, was in a peaceful mood the day I drove to Wharekauhau. It augured well. The last time I had stayed on this coast a southerly storm raged through the night. And I was staying in a tent.

Wharekauhau Country Lodge, Small Luxury Hotel of the World, luxury travel writer Andrew Harper's International Country House Hotel of the Year, promised a different experience from that night in wind-battered nylon shelter.

The only turbulence today came from a helicopter delivering two guests direct from Wellington on to the lodge's front lawn. Those guests would have enjoyed a superb scenic flight over Wellington Harbour and then the Rimutaka Ranges. But then my two-hour drive, across the same ranges then through a rural landscape, with a stop at a Featherston cafe, also had appeal.

Arrival formalities at Wharekauhau quickly over, I was given a short tour "so that you don't get lost", explained receptionist Karina. We explored the living room, homely country kitchen, the courtyard, the croquet lawn, tennis court, indoor heated pool and spa.

My tour ended at Stormwatch Cottage, my lodgings. Karina explained, "Cocktails are at 7pm in the living room, dinner is at 8pm. So you have some time to relax, use whatever facilities you like, the pool, spa pool, lounge. You can wander wherever you like over the farm, or take a mountain bike from reception. We have maps with marked tracks."

Or, I could never budge from my delightful cottage. That was a tempting proposition. A king-sized, four-poster bed, sofa, chairs and open fireplace, (just to be sure of comfort, under-floor heating warms the carpet), separate dressing room, kitchen, tiled bathroom, private courtyard and, from every window, a coastal panorama.

A mini-bar exploration revealed a treasure trove of classic wines. So, four hours before cocktails and a farm to play on? Armed with map and mountain bike I sped across the farm tracks, climbed a bush track up Mt Wharekauhau and admired the views across the bay.

Time then for more relaxing pursuits. I headed for the pool and spa, both mine for the duration of my late afternoon soak and swim.

There are 12 cottage suites at Wharekauhau. The property may be huge but the ambience is intimate. One could "play" all day here and hardly see another soul, so cocktail hour is the time to meet fellow guests - and Wharekauhau manager Bruce Garrett.

Garrett started as hotel general manager for 800-room "bed factories", moving on to a 50-room boutique hotel, then assistant manager at Huka Lodge (with 20 rooms/cottages) and now at Wharekauhau.

He enjoys meeting guests. "In a big hotel you have your room and that's your space. Here it's like staying in a private home. In a hotel the manager is called to the front desk when there is a problem. Here it'll be a guest to say goodbye."

Garrett tells me about 20 per cent of guests each year are New Zealanders. Aucklanders will come for a weekend treat - especially during winter when rates are lower.

Tonight my fellow guests are Americans and English They are "lodge-hopping" through the country, from Kauri Cliffs to Huka to Wharekauhau. At least two couples have a major tramping trip planned.

We adjourn to the four-course dinner prepared by Steve Harris, a former Huka Lodge chef who has been with Wharekauhau since the lodge's pre-opening in 1997. Before dessert, food and beverage manager William van Epenhuijsen entertains with an entreaty for us to try an unusual match of pinot noir wine liqueur with the Valrhona chocolate sorbet. We do. He is right.

In a post-dinner chat with van Epenhuijsen (who has also worked at Solitaire Lodge, Millbrook and Blanket Bay) I discover his enthusiasm for sourcing the best, and unusual, New Zealand food and wine products for Wharekauhau.

Happily and thoroughly sated, I wander my path home to Stormwatch Cottage. The sea, calm and peaceful, bathes in the reflection of a full, silver moon. It is like Wharekauhau has thought of every last detail.

Where to find it:

Wharekauhau Country Estate, Palliser Bay, Wairarapa. Ph 06 307 7581. reservations@wharekauhau.co.nz

What it costs:

Winter tariff (May 1 to September 30) $595 each (double occupancy), $795 a person (single occupancy).

Includes accommodation in cottage suite, breakfast, evening cocktail hour, dinner.

Also available are shareholder homes on the property, which range from three-bedroom cottages to "Chateau Wellington" (two storey, three ensuite bedrooms, minimum two-night stay all inclusions of Wharekauhau, complimentary bar and continental breakfast).

Getting there:

By road, Wharekauhau is an easy two-hour drive from Wellington. Transfers are also available by helicopter from Wellington airport or by road.

What to do:

Swimming (indoor heated pool), gymnasium, farm and bush walks, mountain biking, horse riding, clay target shooting, tennis, petanque, croquet, quad bike adventures, tramping. The health spa offers a full range of treatments.

Food and wine:

Evening dining (inclusive in the tariff) features a set, table d'hote menu. Guests with special requirements can be catered for with advance notice.

Breakfast (also inclusive) presents a bewildering yet welcome choice of fruits, cereals, breads and spreads, some 20 loose leaf tea selections, coffee, juices and hot drinks.

As well, there is a comprehensive a la carte breakfast menu.

Drinks are complimentary during pre-dinner cocktails, wine with dinner. Cottage minibars are extra.