Everywhere I look there are more geysers, each one different and each one steaming away in the sub-zero chill.
As the sun comes up, the temperature rises dramatically - as does a strange queasy feeling.
Ignoring it, we walk through more geysers, breathing in the steam and watching the hot pools bubble, froth and spit.
The sun shines through the geysers, creating an eerie light through the steam. People just feet in front become shadows and shapes as the geysers reach out of the ground and head skyward.
The rising sun is brilliant to see on the opposite part of the sky to the moon, which by 8am is only just settling into the horizon.
As we warm up and stop for a cuppa in the midst of the geysers, that strange sick feeling takes over and I realise I have been stung by the one creature you should avoid while travelling in the Atacama Desert - altitude sickness.
To begin with, it feels like a mild case of car sickness but, as it takes hold, it feels more like the worst possible hangover teamed with a migraine.
Our guide hands out cups of mate de coca, a herbal tea that curbs the symptoms. It helps, but the next leg of our journey, which involves almost two hours on an unsealed road, does not.
We leave the geysers and head south for the Puritama hot springs. As we drive, more of the group start to feel the effects of the altitude and it's a quiet trip.
We're lucky to have our own private spring to use, complete with a shady picnic area.
Everyone is quick to get into the water, which is a blissful, balmy 30C. To say it's crystal-clear is an understatement. The water is stunning and sitting soaking up its pureness, as well as the serenity of the environment, is wonderfully relaxing.
As if we're not spoiled enough, we're treated to a sumptuous mid-morning picnic of local salmon, cheeses, olives and even wine for those who are over the worst of the altitude sickness.
The area where the springs lie is at the bottom of a deep canyon, which is lush and green compared with the reddish-brown landscape of the desert. It really is a slice of paradise in the middle of nowhere.
CHECKLIST
Getting there: LAN Airlines has daily flights from Sydney to Santiago, Chile, via Auckland. From Santiago, LAN offers extensive connections throughout Chile and other South American countries. Phone 0800 451373.
Where to stay: Explora Hotel de Larche Atacama has packages from three to eight nights starting from $1980 per person twin-share, including three nights' accommodation, all meals, house wine, soft drinks and beverages, daily activities and explorations with English-speaking naturalist guides, and return airport transfers.
Anna Leask visited Chile as a guest of Lan Airlines and Explora Hotels.
