Casa bella in Whitianga

By KAREN GOA

Getting to Giorgio and Margherita Allemano's Villa Toscana Lodge is a bit like a treasure hunt. Drive through Whitianga, twist up a private road and through a wrought iron gate and even in the spring drizzle the Tuscan-style villa glows like the fabled pot of gold.

Giorgio, who is from Turin in Italy's Piedmont region, and Tuscany-native Margherita bypassed emigrating to cold Canada and poisonous Australia in favour of bushy but wet New Zealand - on a reconnaissance tour it rained for nine out of 12 days.

Undaunted by the deluge, the Allemanos came permanently in 1995 and bought four ferny acres near Whitianga, "because at the time it was one of the few places in the North Island with a marina", says Giorgio, a marine biologist and enthusiastic fisher.

The spot they chose to build their villa has heaven's own view across Mercury Bay - where Lieutenant James Cook recorded the transit of that celestial body across the sun in 1769 - and far beyond.

For complete privacy there is only one guest suite so the view is all ours, along with everything else. The fully equipped kitchen features a benchtop crafted from imported Italian granite. In the two king-size bedrooms lavender potpourri scents the pure cotton bed linen, and embroidered curtains frame solid wood casement windows.

The ensuite and generous lounge/dining area take up the rest of the suite's 100sq/m. Underfloor heating warms the terracotta tiles that also made the trip from Italy.

Much of the furniture is antique, including the chairs, writing desk, bureau, dressing tables and the largest wardrobe I have ever hung my coat in. Smiles Giorgio, "We managed to steal as much as possible from the [family's] country house".

At the time of our visit, Margherita, who is a watercolour artist, is in Tuscany with son Giorma visiting relatives so we are invited to dine with Giorgio and 6-year-old daughter Fiamma in the family kitchen.

Before dinner Giorgio, who studied oenology as well as shrimp culture at university, helps us to choose some imported Piedmont wine from the villa's cellar to have with our meal. We end up with a chardonnay and two reds, a Barolo and a Barbera.

While our host attends to the important matter of food there is time to meander across the schist terrace and down the path for a soak in our spa pool. Screened from the main house by ponga, manuka and eucalypts we bubble away blissfully and contemplate the panorama. It's hard not to suffer a serious attack of view envy.

Dinner starts with Giorgio's homemade toma cheese and bread baked al forno in the outdoor terracotta pizza oven. Then comes Italian buffalo mozzarella cheese and fresh rosemary on pizza bread, followed by ham, mozzarella and pepper calzone.

Fiamma announces that "we're having pig" and so we are - blackened leg of pork roasted in the pizza oven and drizzled with olive oil.

During dinner Fiamma, who is afraid of spiders, confides that she would like to visit Australia but wouldn't want to stay overnight. That can never be said about this transplanted piece of Tuscany. Overnight is barely enough.

* Karen Goa was hosted by Villa Toscana Lodge

WHERE TO FIND IT

Villa Toscana Lodge, Ohuka Park, Whitianga. Contact host or see website for directions.

It's a two-hour drive from Auckland. Helipad onsite.

Ph (07) 866 2293, fax (07) 866 2269 email giorgio@villatoscana.co.nz


WHAT IT COSTS

Single party bookings only.

1 April-30 October: $440 1-2 persons a night.

1 November-31 March: $640

1-2 persons a night. $70 for each extra person a night (maximum 2).

Five star Qualmark rated.

WHEELCHAIR ACCESS No.

CHILDREN Very welcome.

SMOKING Outside.

PETS ON SITE Karma the friendly Alsatian and one elusive cat.

FOOD

Silver service continental Italian-style breakfast (cereal, home-baked Italian bread, fruit, freshly squeezed juice, yoghurt, biscuits) delivered on a pre-laid moveable table indoors or on the terrace.

Dinner is by arrangement and is selected from an extensive four-course Italian menu, accompanied by wines from the cellar.

Villa Toscana Lodge caters for a maximum 35 guests for wedding parties.

WHAT TO DO

Archery, mountain biking, bush walks, sea and river kayaking, contract bridge, billiards English- or Italian-style. Game fishing charters on the hosts' 32-ft Bertram launch Mamma Mia.