Cycling the Bow Valley Parkway in Banff National Park, Canada. Photo / Shannon Martin
Cycling the Bow Valley Parkway in Banff National Park, Canada. Photo / Shannon Martin
In Jasper and Banff National Parks, new trails and tour operators are making it easier than ever to get on your bike, writes Jessica Wynne Lockhart.
High above me, the mountains glisten with fresh snow, but down below it's the perfect spring day in Jasper as I daisywheel around aquamarine lakes. Richardson's ground squirrels pop their heads up from their underground homes, chirping as I roll past. I navigate around roots and rocks, making a U-turn when I spot a protective elk and her calf blocking the trail. Then, on my final climb back into the Jasper township, I see two coyotes, surveying their territory.
Canada's Bow Valley Parkway is now closed to vehicles in May, June and September, making it ideal for cycle holidays. Photo / Paul Ziska
As a form of travel, cycling is perhaps one of the most underrated. Two wheels can access wilderness areas that four wheels cannot, while moving at a slower pace makes it possible to see, smell and hear things you'd never notice from inside a car. These are just two of the reasons that bicycle is the ideal way to explore Alberta's Jasper and Banff National Parks.
Yet even though I'm a born and bred Albertan, this is the first time I've ever cycled through the Canadian Rockies. I get that it likely sounds counterintuitive — especially to Kiwis — to have access to massive mountains and never bike through them. But trust me when I say it hasn't been due to a lack of interest, but rather a lack of opportunity.
Jessica Wynne Lockhart's partner looking out at the Athabasca River in the town of Jasper, Canada. Photo / Supplied
Until recently, there have been few places for tourists to rent bikes and even fewer tour operators to guide them. And due to perceived trail user conflict between hikers and cyclists, alongside concerns about erosion, cycling was previously permitted on only a limited number of trails in Jasper and Banff National Parks.
It wasn't until 2020 that many of the trails in the two parks became multi-use and it was only in December 2021 that further amendments were made for e-bikes.
If the pandemic is to thank for anything, this might just be it. Over the past two years in Alberta, there's been a "bike boom", with retailers selling out of the two-wheeled toys and locals heading to the Rockies to test them out.
It's also responsible for the celebrated Bow Valley Parkway cycling project. In 2020, Parks Canada temporarily closed 17km of the scenic roadway — which runs from Banff to Lake Louise — to help decrease the spread of Covid-19. It wasn't long before cyclists started taking advantage of the car-free stretch. It became so popular that the secondary highway is now closed to motor vehicles every May, June, and September.
Cycling the Bow Valley Parkway in Banff National Park, Canada. Photo / Shannon Martin
The boom also gave birth to two tour operators, including Journey Bike guides in Jasper, run by Elissa Cummings.
"People are only in Jasper for a short amount of time, and they want to get as much in as they can. With mountain biking, you can go twice as far," she says.
Meanwhile, when Clare McCann launched Bikescape in 2021, she became the first guiding business licensed to offer mountain-bike tours in Banff National Park.
"You're going to take me for a ride today," she tells me as we head up Tunnel Mountain, assuring me we aren't going to do anything too "gnarly".
This calms my nerves, but also reflects the ethos of Park Canada's new "bring your own bike" campaign — the sport is accessible for all, with suggested trails, tours, and bike rentals to suit all skill levels. Yes, you can test your skills on "gnarly" mountain bike trails, but you can also rent a cruiser e-bike, get a picnic from Banff Graze Co, and have a leisurely day out exploring relatively flat trails.
Canada's Bow Valley Parkway is now closed to vehicles in May, June and September, making it ideal for cycle holidays. Photo / Paul Ziska
On my final day in the Rockies, I decide to challenge my own skills by riding the 60km from Banff to Lake Louise on the Bow Valley Parkway. On route, I see bears and deer enjoying a reprieve from the traffic. For me, cycling has transformed a familiar destination into something entirely new — but I have no doubt that it will create lasting memories for first-time visitors that would be impossible to get from the passenger seat of a car.
Travel writer Jessica Wynne Lockhart's partner cycles the Bow Valley Parkway in Banff National Park, Canada. Photo / Supplied
When to visit Parks Canada's Bow Valley Parkway Cycling Experience is a three-year pilot project running until 2024. From May 1 to June 25 and September 1 to 30, 17km of the scenic roadway from Banff to Lake Louise is closed to cars. Don't forget your bear spray, though — this is also the season that bears are most active, and when you're most likely to see them along roadsides.
Where to stay in Jasper The recently refurbished Bear Hill Lodge is centrally located, with lodge rooms that feature gas fireplaces and kitchenettes. bearhilllodge.com
Where to stay in Banff The Canalta Lodge is designed for cyclists, with a bike rack out front. If you want to pop downtown quickly — a five-minute pedal away — bicycles are also available for rental. Best of all, no locks are necessary thanks to Banff's bike valet service. canaltalodge.com
CANADA GETTING THERE Air New Zealand flies direct from Auckland to Vancouver. Air Canada's direct service resumes on November 12.
