KEY POINTS:
Vancouver is a beautiful city. Located in western Canada, in British Columbia, it is the proverbial melting-pot of cultures. Bustling, but without feeling too overcrowded, the city has, by necessity, been built upwards. With the Pacific Ocean to the west, the mountains to the north, the skyscrapers and condo living reminded me of a clean New York - full of life and excitement.
First things first
Getting there couldn't be easier. Air New Zealand begin direct flights from Auckland to Vancouver in November, operating three times a week between November-March and July-August. (Online fares start from $2636 return.)
Once past the astonishingly friendly immigration and customs officers, either grab a cab (25 minutes into the city for about $30) or take a bus with options to change and ride the skytrain into the city.
Almost complete is the Translink railway, part of the city's impressive upgrade as it prepares to host the 2010 Olympic Games, which will link the airport with downtown Vancouver. Auckland take note.
Vancouverites make the most of the Glass City's waterside location. You can kayak and sail, water taxis take you around False Creek, either to shop in the ecclectic Granville Island (1) markets, or to relax in one of the many bars and restaurants such as Nu restaurant and lounge (2) (www.whatisnu.com), a lovely glass-walled place specialising in seafood and using almost all Canadian-grown ingredients. Nu overlooks the market island, and has live, but not overbearing, music playing in the background as you enjoy your lunch. Sea planes buzz around the city, giving access to Victoria, Nanaimo and Gulf Islands from as little as C$55 one-way.
Take a bike
An excellent way to see the city is to make use of the Seawall Promenade. You can either walk, run (but why would you?), skate or cycle along this 9km path that, not surprisingly, follows the sea wall around the city from the seaplane harbour to Kitsilano Beach. Bicycles and blades can be hired at a reasonable price from various rental shops around the city. (Bikes from as little as $9/half-day, $12/full day, and blades from $10/half-day, $12/full day.)
Stanley Park is a good place to start. Hire a bike on Denman St (3), head to the waterfront and turn left. The ride should take you around two hours and try not to fall off as you take in the views of the city.
You will pass by the Aquarium and Marine Science centre (www.vanaqua.org) (4) which is well worth a visit even if, like me, the only fish you are interested in is the one you are having for dinner. Check out the luminous jelly fish and the ghostly white beluga whales. And if you want to see something so cute it is sickening, have a look at the otters as they sleep floating on their backs in the water, a frisbee clutched in their tiny paws.
Continue around the park, under the bridge and be amazed at the views as you pass by Prospect Point (5) and look out across Burrard Inlet towards Vancouver Island. Once you've picked yourself up and brushed down your grazed knees, keep cycling and you will come, via beautiful English Bay Beach (6), full-circle back to Denman St. Two hours very well spent.
A bit of history
Gastown (7), to the east of the city centre, is the birthplace of Vancouver (which actually went by the name of Gastown at one time). The Victorian buildings, cobbled streets and old-fashioned lampposts evoke the feeling of history, while the trendy bars, boutiques and galleries bring the area into the present. A word of warning, though, Gastown is not the best place to hang around after dark. Some of the less salubrious aspects of the Victorian age are alive and well in this gritty neighbourhood!
A statue to local hero and alcoholic, Gassy Jack Deighton who, I was disappointed to hear, was not named for his flatulent disposition, but rather for his ``tall stories' stands a couple of blocks away from Gastown's stream clock (8), a strange tourist attraction that is the only one of it's kind in the world. However, it is not as old as it looks (built in 1977) and don't expect too much from its slightly disappointing quarter-hourly toots.
Oh, and it's powered by electricity too...
Taste of the Orient
Journey south of Gastown and you come to Vancouver's Chinatown (9), a plethora of streetmarkets with lucky red awnings. Explore the vibrant and exciting shops that sell everything from jade and silk, to pig heads and chicken feet. I was especially intrigued by a huge stall of fish and seafood, some of which I couldn't, for the life of me, identify, and one of which, I am sure, waved a glistening tentacle and winked.
If all the yelling and bustle of the markets get too much, you can take sanctuary in Dr Sun Yet-Sen Classical Gardens (10). Experience zen as you wander the tranquil stone paths past trees and pools and enjoy a cup of tea under a pavilion. Entry costs about $9 and includes a tour explaining how each and every plant and rock are deliberately placed to achieve balance and harmony with nature. Unable to resist, I secretly moved a large stone just to see if the place would shake with discord. It did.
If you fancy giving the credit card a bit of exercise, Vancouver's the place to do it. If you don't mind it busy, head to Robson St (11). Souvenir shops give way to the trendy stores and to the Pacific Shopping Centre (12), a three-block mall containing department stores and international chains.
A spot of shopping
If you want a more eclectic shopping experience, head to Granville Island (1) where you can peruse various shops and markets selling jewellery, pottery and paintings, or visit the art galleries.
Dinner and drinks
Start with a delicious cocktail in Zin (13) (www.zin-restaurant.com) and then head for a sumptuous feast at the Blue Water Cafe (14) in Yaletown (www.bluewatercafe.net). I can recommend the crab; be prepared to do a bit of plier work (and warn those sitting nearby to be alert for flying shell shrapnel).
If you can't be bothered travelling as far as the Blue Water Cafe (or if you had a few too many cocktails in Zin), you can stagger to Cin Cin (15), only a few blocks away (www.cincin.net). The food is excellent. And so is the wine...
Vancouverites love their food, and it certainly shows in the quality of dining available in the city.
Leaving the city
A must-see, only a few kilometers north of the city is the world's longest and highest suspension bridge.
Capilano suspension bridge (16) is Vancouver's oldest attraction (www.capbridge.com). A bridge has spanned the tumultuous Capilano river for well over 100 years. The first suspended bridge was built there in 1889 and was constructed from only hemp rope and cedar by George Grant Mackay. Now it is the centre of a tourist attraction, including a totem pole and nature park, a First Nations Carving Centre and the Treetops Adventure walk. A network of suspended walkways that evokes images of the Ewok village.
To say I have a fear of heights and of flying is like saying the haka is just a little dance. I find it difficult to look up without losing my balance and yet, here I was about to step onto Capilano Suspension bridge. I took a deep breath and a furtive glance around (just to make sure there were no mad scythe-wielding priests of Kali, a la Indiana Jones and the Temple of Doom), and trusted my life to a few planks of wood and string that spanned the chasm of mind-numbing horror.
Actually the 137m bridge is safely constructed from steel, cedar and concrete, and strong enough to take the weight of 1333 people. Now if only I hadn't eaten such a large breakfast...
The bridge recently rode out the terrible storms that battered Vancouver and withstood the weight of a huge tree which fell onto it. Months of dedicated repair work now sees the bridge open to the public once again. It is very safe.
Anyway I made it all the way across. I even looked down at the Capilano river 70m below, and had my picture taken (although you won't see it reproduced here as the medium of print has not yet been developed that can replicate that kind of terror. And also, I was wearing a silly hat with tassles).
So, Vancouver City. A fantastic start to a tour of British Columbia, a base for adventures to Whistler, Vancouver Island and beyond, or an indulgent long weekend. Whatever your reason for visiting, you cannot fail to enjoy yourself. The food is great, the people are friendly and the scenery is breathtaking.
Now, a slight word of caution, just in case you (like me) are a little taken aback by the unusual toilet situation in this lovely city.
In Vancouver, and possibly all of Canada, the natural state of the toilet bowl is to be full of water. This is not a plumbing emergency, the bowl is not blocked. It's just how things are.
So don't wake up in the night and forget to put the seat down. I'm just saying...
*Phil Welch flew to Vancouver courtesy of Air New Zealand.
- Detours, HoS
