California dreaming

KAREN GOA has an Alice in Decoland experience in a Napier bed and breakfast

From the outside Cobden Villa, built high on Napier Hill in 1870 for rural entrepreneur Nathaniel Kettle, is a fine example of a late-19th-century villa. A sea of roses laps at its venerable timbers. Step through the latticed archway into the hallway, though, and it's a total immersion art deco experience.

Saying owners Amy and Cornel Walewski love art deco is like saying ducks are a little bit fond of water. Three years ago the Walewskis left their award-winning deco home in San Jose, California, for New Zealand - "Cornel has wanted to live here his whole life," smiles Amy - and their dream of renovating a historic home in Napier, the deco capital of the world.

The couple scoured antique shops and internet auctions for authentic lamps and light fittings, furniture and artworks to glamorise the B&B's four nostalgically sumptuous suites, hallway and living areas.

A mohair, clamshell-shaped 1940s lounge suite from Nebraska sinks voluptuously into flower-patterned carpets in the guest lounge. The sunstruck conservatory, like the lounge, gives wide vistas of the Pacific Ocean in one direction and opens on to spacious decks facing the sunset in the other.

While sampling complimentary hors d'oeuvres in the conservatory I find my favourite thing among all of the deco treats - a working Zenith Cobra-matic Record Player and Radio Phonograph Combination.

Each centrally heated and air-conditioned bedroom suite (three with ensuites) is named after a period artist or sculptor. The Chiparus, or Honeymoon, Suite features the grandest prize - the double bed built in America for the 1925 International Exposition of Modern Decorative and Industrial Arts in Paris, which debuted art deco to the world. Flanked by palms, a chaise longe in the bay window adds a luxury touch.

Artist and designer Cornel, who made the poster for the Art Deco Weekend last month, has seamlessly grafted his own art deco legacy on to Cobden Villa's existing features, explaining, "It was a labour of love and a dream job."

The trompe l'oeils in the bedrooms pay tribute to the art deco ziggurats and other details from iconic Napier architecture such as the Daily Telegraph building. Cornel's black and white lead-lights in the Chiparus bathroom and double steam room - a place to linger long - are themselves instant classics.

My room, the Vargas Suite, is all 1930s Hollywood glam and a silver and black shrine to pin-up artist Alberto Vargas' sweetly seductive "girls". French doors open on to a private verandah where even the ashtrays and doormats are deco.

The room conjures up some Hollywood magic - somehow, the next day, my scrunched-up morning face looks less scary in a bevel-edged mirror's soft patina.

* Karen Goa was a guest of Cobden Villa.

ON THE WEB www.cobdenvilla.com

Where to find it Cobden Villa, 11 Cobden Rd, Bluff Hill, Napier.

Ph (06) 835 9065, fax (06) 833 6979, email stay@cobdenvilla.co.nz

Getting there Four hours' drive from Wellington, five from Auckland, daily flights from main centres. Cobden Villa is 10 minutes' walk from Napier city centre or a short, chauffeured drive in the Walewskis' 1938 Buick Special.

What it costs Suites range from $225 to $365 single or double occupancy a night; includes gourmet breakfast. Ask about special packages - Bridal and Honeymoon, DECOdence or Ultimate Relaxation.

Wheelchair access Yes.


Smoking Outside on the verandah or in the garden.

What to do Art deco city walks and tour, hot air ballooning, Hawkes Bay wine trail tours by van or bicycle, National Aquarium and other attractions along Marine Parade, dine at a restaurant in the city or at a vineyard.

See also www.hawkesbaynz.com