Buses are a true Turkish delight

By CHAS TOOGOOD

We had spent six weeks hopping through the Greek Islands and wanted to go to Turkey, to get away from big cities and lots of people and into the heart of the country.

We decided on a circular route by entering Turkey at Kusadasi, heading across the country's vast inland to Cappadocia, across to the coast, then north and back to Kusadasi.

It was perfect. There was no doubling up of territory and the last part is along the spectacular coastline with its picturesque fishing ports and beach resorts.

Kusadasi offered similar attractions as Istanbul on a somewhat smaller scale - an old historic section, bazaars, carpet factories and the fun of haggling .

We stayed at Sammy's Palace, a centrally located backpackers' hostel, and had a clean double room with bathroom for $18 a night.

Two days in the hustle and bustle of Kusadasi was enough for two travellers keen on the rural side of life. Pamukkale was to be the next stop, a four-and-a-half-hour bus journey from Kusadasi.

Pamukkale sounded much like the Rotorua region - volcanic, with hot springs and a hillside much like the ancient pink and white terraces of Mt Tarawera.

Although spectacular, the terraces have lost a lot of their former glory. Five hotels have been built along the hilltop, affecting the flow of much of the thermal water and many of the terraces, which have taken thousands of years to form, have been ruined in the past few years.

Six hours in Pamukkale proved enough and we decided to move on .

We had been apprehensive about travelling through Turkey but found the people friendly and helpful and the Turkish bus system cheap and efficient.

From Pamukkale we jumped on a small regional bus (dalmuch) to Denilizi, where we caught a huge Mercedes bus which would take us on our 11-hour journey through central Turkey. The fare? Just $30 each.

Travelling at night means a saving on accommodation and does not waste a valuable day.

On the bus is the driver and a steward. Within the hour we had been splashed with a refreshing eau de cologne, served a cool glass of water followed by coffee and biscuits and a little later, a coke. This service continued for most of the trip.

Our arrival in Goreme was unforgettable. We were dropped off at the deserted town square at 4.30 in the morning and as the night slowly turned into day, the stunning landscape of Goreme was revealed.

The plains of Cappadocia were formed millions of years ago by volcanic eruptions. Larva flows created unique land forms which were covered with soil, then washed away by wind and water to leave what remains today - huge stalagmite-like formations that rear hundreds of feet into the air.

The township of Goreme has been built among these creations, and as the day dawned these fairy chimneys, as they are known, slowly emerged, towering over the town.

They are so large that many have been hollowed out and are used for houses and pensions where visitors can stay.

Being in the township is like stepping back in time. Strict Muslim traditions still dominate life, and after the modern lifestyles of Kusadasi it was a surprise to find the women still in the traditional long dresses over pantaloons and wearing the yashmak, or face mask.

A 10-hour, 200km tour of the surrounding area cost $45 and covered travel, Ali our guide, entry fees to tourist spots and a three-course lunch with wine.

After Goreme it was on to Olympos Beach, 14 hours away on the coast, again just $30 each for a ticket.

Olympos Beach is a popular stopover for young backpackers and novel accommodation is provided in tree houses built in pines.

We checked in to the Kadir Treehouses and had a comfortable room, dinner and breakfast for $25, cheaper with communal bathroom - further evidence of the great value to be found in Turkey.

The next day it was on to Dalyan, four hours north along the coast.

The town sits on the banks of a natural canal which carries the overflow of Lake Koycegiz 10km to the Mediterranean .

The riverbank is crowded with hundreds of river boats used to transport visitors to the coast.

Dalyan is also a centre of adventure tourism with white-water rafting, kayaking and trekking.