Forget the pilgrimage to Eva Peron's grave in Recoleta's cemetery or even Buenos Aires' most famous square, Plaza de Mayo - if you're a football fanatic (of the round ball variety) or travelling with one, top of the sightseeing list in the city is going to be La Boca.
I admit, until the Boca Juniors came to New Zealand last year, I'd never heard of them but for my husband, a chance to see the once-home ground of Maradona (yes, I had heard of the 'Hand of God') was always going to be the highlight of a brief stop in Buenos Aires.
As we'd been staying in Recoleta, one of the city's most expensive neighbourhoods (in one of the cheapest hotels) our arrival in La Boca was something of a culture shock. While Recoleta reeks of money and privilege, La Boca is more in the realm of the have-nots, where people live not in multi-million-dollar apartments but in crowded tenements and shantytowns sheltering under highway fly-overs.
This is a working class (for the lucky ones) neighbourhood, a place where football is not simply a sport, it's a dream of escape, where rags to riches tales can come true. There's a vitality and a sense of community in La Boca that is missing from the better-heeled side of town.
Even so, the first sight of the environs around La Boca's stadium - which can house up to 49,000 screaming, cheering weeping fans - is a reality check after the excesses of Recoleta. There's graffiti on the graffiti; rubbish lies in drifts in the side streets and people prop up doorways while smoking in the shadows. Tourists are warned not to leave the main streets and not to explore anywhere at night; when we veer off into a side alley even in broad daylight we meet a trio of well-armed policemen on surveillance duty.