Paul Davies visits Brighton's North Laine.
When London gets sunstroke: go to Brighton. Avoid the Underground, jump on a train (providing they still work) and shoot through the rolling countryside to England's south coast — officially the sunniest part of the UK (according to its tourist website). Upon arrival, dart down the main drag towards the water, throw on your swimsuit, jump in and cool off. Done? Good. Now get changed, avoid the glitzy glare of the famous fairground and battle those iconic pebbles back up towards whence you came. We're off to Brighton's North Laine.
Everyone knows about Brighton Pier. The "pleasure pier" hovers above the sea like a mystical waterworld. It anchors most photos of the southern coastal city and shows off the English talent for utilising limited space. Carousels and a rollercoaster on the ocean, isn't it fantastic? At least that's what I've heard, I've never had any of my nephews with me which might qualify me going. But we're not talking about the pier — we're all about North Laine, a more mature part of the city that deserves equal attention. It's Brighton's eclectic district of art spaces, cafes, restaurants, bars, music shops and outdoor markets.
It's too often missed in the beeline from the train station to the water. If you resist and hang an early left, you can stroll down brightly coloured alleys hanging with bunting and lined with stalls, eateries and creative looking chaps with exceptional moustaches.
A slum in the 19th century, North Laine starts just to the east of the main street, Queens Rd. Winding your way down its paths, you're likely to find all manner of stores, and all manner of people. It's home to collectives like Art Schism, which features local art and resident artists who also mind the till. Their transient nature means it'll move on, but probably not far. This is the bohemian quarter — the place for creative types to cultivate.
