The Lanes district in Brighton. Photo / Greg Bowker
The Lanes district in Brighton. Photo / Greg Bowker
Pebble beaches, promenades and cobblestone streets filled with quirky shops and pubs make Brighton endearing, finds Greg Bowker.
We are in Brighton, it's London by the Sea," says a drinker on whose pub conversation I'm eavesdropping. We're in The Evening Star Pub, a small local brewery, five minutes' walk from the city's train station. It has plenty of local history and the Dark Star American Pale Ale is excellent.
And it's a great way to set the mood after the 50-minute overland train ride from Victoria Station, London. You can book your rail tickets in advance from New Zealand, making a stress-free start to your trip.
Brighton is full of wannabe musicians walking the streets, guitars hanging from their backs. Other arty types have dyed quirky colours through their hair.
It is summer and there is a bit of a heatwave hitting these shores, so being near the sea is a great idea, for me and the other thousands of bodies crammed on to the steep pebbly beach for dips in the English Channel.
After sunning my wintered pale skin, I head to The Lanes district to find Brighton institution Food for Friends. It claims to have put the "V" into vegetarianism and has been serving the vego stuff for well over 30 years. It wasn't cool then, it was just what they did. The little corner cafe is still serving the herbivore dream. Getting a table can be tough during the holiday season, however if you can, it's thoroughly worth it.
Don't let the warren of narrow cobbled streets, which are bursting with alternative stand-alone shops, put you off because if you're looking for something different, cool and which nobody else has then this is the place to fill your suitcase with gifts.
Brighton's famous Pier. Photo / Greg Bowker
"It's a more enjoyable shopping experience than London ... all the shops are so close and it's never that far to drop off a bag or two at a hotel," I hear a lady explain to the man carrying the bags.
I find a tiny wood turner that will make any and everything from adorable baby toys to classic egg cups.
Once you're done with shopping, make your way to the top of town, grab a classic Amsterdammers' rental bike and get lost among places of historic note.
Not far from the bike shop is one of Banksy's celebrated graffiti art installations, the Kissing Coppers. It is carefully framed on the side of the Prince Albert pub in Trafalgar St. Roll on past there into Brighton's central park and, while sampling a local coffee, watch young skateboarders trying the latest moves. Or pop into Jamie Oliver's wee Italian Restaurant for some pukka tukka.
The Evening Star pub. Photo / Greg Bowker
If you're looking for a touch of history, the spectacular Royal Pavilion features an Indian exterior and Chinese interior.
It was built by the Prince Regent, who later became George IV and who set a frivolous tone for the town as he was notable for his love of partying.
Finish your Brighton odyssey with a stroll along the seaside boardwalks and sample authentic English fish 'n' chips with a beer ... Brighton is an excellent place to break up your visit to London and recharge your batteries.
CHECKLIST
Getting there: Emirates flies from Auckland to London Gatwick, via their hub in Dubai.
The writer travelled to Brighton courtesy of Visit London, Railplus and the Neo boutique hotel.
