Peace reigns among the tribes but it wasn't always that way, writes Diana Balham.
Bob, our guide, proudly tells us that Malaysian Borneo is "the land of the retired headhunters". Well, that's a blessing, I think, although it's hard to equate this warrior image with the gentle, peaceable and usually quite tiny indigenous people I have met so far.
They officially stopped bopping each other on the head during the reign of "White Rajah" James Brooke in the 19th century but tribespeople maintain an affectionate relationship with the family heads to this day. People from the Bidayuh tribe have a special house for their skulls, called a head house.
They also have a nice sense of humour, as this is also the house where the village chief lives. And in the Bidayuh village of Annah Rais the head house is also where the village leader lives, next to a crate of skulls.
The Bidayuh people are one of about 28 ethnic groups in Sarawak, traditionally choosing to live on hillsides to more easily defend themselves against the aggressive Iban people. In simpler times, societies ran on rice: tribes conquered other tribes (and took the skulls of young warriors) to obtain more land for growing their staple food. But in Iban villages the skulls belong to individual families and are not on display.