The Bay of Islands' biggest jewel is ideal for a classic Kiwi beach break, writes Elisabeth Easther.
Vital stats: At 208ha, it's the largest of the area's 144 islands.
How to get there: If you've got your own boat take that, otherwise it's $35 return with Explore.
Origin of name: The island was named for the large-leafed puka tree that used to flourish here — to honour those origins a couple of puka have been planted either side of the wharf.
Population: There's one fulltime caretaker and about 180 sheep. In the height of summer, for about two weeks, about 400 campers descend.
Old news: Around the time of European contact there'd have been up to 1500 people living on the island making the most of the fertile land and access to kai moana and safe sandy beaches. The density of archaeology today is phenomenal thanks to the plentiful pa sites and middens. It's hard to envisage those crowds today, now that it's teeming with nature, a few sheep and a lot of birds.
Iconic shot: Looking down on the bay full of boats, the beach a patchwork of tents, with views to Cape Brett and beyond, this is where you'll snap your iconic photo of the Kiwi beach holiday.
Famous local: American adventurer Zane Grey came here in the 1920s, establishing a world-famous fishing camp in 1927, with some of those buildings still standing.
Otehei Bay on Urupukapuka island. Photo / Elisabeth Easther
Money for jam: Tourism, sheep farming, fishing and camping keep Urupukapuka afloat.
An opportunity: If you fancy operating a floating icecream truck over summer, it'd be like having a licence to print money.
Town fiestas:Project Island Song runs a few tree-planting days each year that are incredibly well attended and, with DoC, it also runs a fun day in summer for campers with sizzling sausages and games.
Here for a short time: Take the ferry from Paihia with Explore. It'll drop you at Otehei Bay, then walk for 40 minutes over the hills to Paradise Bay where you'll find a beautiful beach with good swimming and lots of pohutukawa shade. Frolic a while, then head back to Otehei Bay for a snack and a cold beer before jumping back on the ferry to go home.
Best reason to moor up: For the safe sandy beaches, epic snorkelling and back-to-basics camping.
Kids love: Swimming, gazing at fish, climbing pohutukawa and exploring 208ha of heaven. Many families visit with third-generation campers for that old-fashioned camping culture, with kids in big mobs meeting up every summer to have the time of their lives.
Best park: Nature. This place is a genuine jungle gym — tan sands outlined with crystal-clear blue water.
Best facilities: There are three campgrounds. Sunset Bay is the smallest, with room for just 10 campsites. Book it out with friends and you've got your own private sandy bay complete with composting toilet. Cable Bay is a bit bigger with room for 80 people on 20 sites and then there's Urupukapuka with room for about 120. If you can hold off till February, you'll avoid the crowds and it's even more delicious.
Best walk:Urupukapuka Island walk is an easy 7.3km walk that takes about five hours. Travelling in a clockwise direction, read the groovy interpretation panels along the way. If that sounds too much like hard work, there are two shorter loops — The Urupukapuka Bay Loop takes about 90 minutes or do the shorter Otehei Bay Loop, about 30-45 minutes around one of the hills, perfect for short-stop visitors.
Best view: Visit the trig station above Otehei Bay and gaze all the way up to the Kerikeri Inlet, over to Russell, Waitangi, The Cavallis and Cape Brett. Even though it's sheltered, from up here you get a sense of being part of a bigger, more dynamic coastal environment.
Best swim: If you need to ask, you're probably not fit to go into the water, but perhaps Paradise Bay outshines the other bays by a fraction.
Best museum: The Island Conservation Centre at Otehei Bay is free to visit and filled with fascinating facts about prehistoric and colonial history, as well as telling the story of the work done by Project Island Song and DoC to help restore native birdlife to the region.
Cultural outings: Take the six-hour Maori experience with Ngati Kuta and Patukeha people. The day includes a powhiri with waiata, workshops in flax weaving, Maori remedies and poi, a guided walk and delicious traditional food.
Nice arts: There are some lovely little turned wood pieces for sale at the visitors centre, with sales raising money for conservation projects.
Once upon a time: In the days Zane Grey lived there, a South African was also a resident, running a little museum that was filled with trophies from home. Huge horned water buffalo heads, zebras — how did these things end up on a little Northland island? This fruity chap left in the early 1920s and took his pieces with him, and they're said to be now somewhere south of the Bombays.
Eat, drink and be merry: The licensed Zane Grey Restaurant at Otehei Bay is family friendly and unfussy. You can get good coffee and reasonably priced food like nachos, fish and chips and burgers. Plus there are also lots of endearing old photos on the walls.
Wet your whistle: The cafe is licensed and grand for a beer or a vino. Nestle in on a beanbag and enjoy the beach, it's very relaxed, and the dress code insists on bare, sandy feet.
Otehei Bay is pretty special.
Best adventures: Hire a kayak or a paddleboard from Otehei Bay or book a half-day scuba trip. Jetskiers also visit, but unless you're the one driving it, they're just bloody annoying.
Chop chop: With a helicopter landing barge in Otehei Bay, book a fabulous package with Salt Air Helicopters if you fancy getting high.
Best kept secret: There's a viewing hide and dam at Entico Bay where pateke (brown teal) nest around the dam alongside various other wading birds.
Wildlife: In the air and in the sea, the birds and fish are legendary. Peel your eyes for dotterels, oystercatchers, pied stilts, paradise ducks, saddlebacks, robins, whiteheads and big old gulls. Orcas and dolphins are also regular visitors. When the stingrays are hiding in Otehei Bay, you'll know the orcas are coming.
Safety warning: Urupukapuka is pest free so follow biosecurity rules to the absolute letter. And do be sensible with sun and sea — slip, slop, slap and drink lots of water too.
