Visitors are rewarded with sacred rituals that touch the heart and soul. Photo / Getty Images
Visitors are rewarded with sacred rituals that touch the heart and soul. Photo / Getty Images
On your next trip to Bali, don’t just observe Balinese culture while sipping cocktails on the sand – participate and embrace the country’s spiritual heart, writes Tiana Templeman
Balinese culture is everywhere: art is integral to the local way of life, people make offerings every day; it seems there’s a festival for every occasion and family are everything. Visitors who want to truly experience Bali and immerse themselves in its spiritual heart are rewarded with captivating performances, artistic exploration and sacred rituals that touch the heart and soul.
Cultural celebrations abound in Bali, but Nyepi (also known as the “day of silence”) is one of the island’s most important ceremonies. On Nyepi Day there are no roaring motorbikes or blaring horns and there is no local chatter on the street. Bali’s airport closes for 24 hours and even the birds seem to chirp more quietly. Residents must follow four rules: amati lelangon (no noise), amati lelungan (no travel), amati geni (no light) and amati pekaryan (no work). Nyepi is taken seriously and pecalangs (traditional security men) patrol the deserted streets to ensure all Balinese comply.
Tourists are also asked to respect Nyepi Day, albeit in a more relaxed way, with hotels providing information about the celebrations along with a couple of torches. We spend the day floating in our villa’s plunge pool and speaking softly to one another, then walk to dinner bathed in the glow of flickering candles. The resort is wrapped in the warm embrace of a tropical night heady with the scent of frangipani. Here in the silence under a sky scattered with stars, we feel relaxed and at peace for the first time in months. Nyepi Day is a time for quiet contemplation and introspection; for visitors it is also a panacea for the daily demands of modern life.
This year, Nyepi Day takes place from 6am on March 29 to 6am on March 30.
Kecak performance at Uluwatu
In the late afternoon, tour buses begin climbing the winding road that leads to the atmospheric Uluwatu temple perched on a clifftop high above the sea that is home to one of Bali’s most famous performances. Kecak (pronounced ke-cha) is a dance that tells the story of Prince Rama and Princess Sita who must escape the clutches of an evil villain. As the sun sinks towards the horizon, the performance begins with over 50 bare-chested men seated on the ground chanting “chak-a-chak-a-chak” in a hypnotic rhythm. There is no gamelan orchestra for this classic dance performance, only the sound of the male chorus, which rises, falls and changes tempo in time with the action taking place on stage.
Dancers wearing colourful costumes tell the story of royal lovers who are saved by Hanuman, a monkey warrior as mischievous as the real monkeys that call Uluwatu temple home. Before he defeats the evil king, the dancer playing Hanuman leaps through the crowd, bounding from one hapless audience member to another like a furry white parkour expert. He swipes hats and sunglasses (although, unlike the real monkeys, he gives them back) and plays cheeky tricks on those who aren’t paying attention. When Hanuman is captured and put inside a crackling circle of fire, the audience spontaneously yells out “No!”, before their favourite dancer makes his escape and goes on to save the day.
The Uluwatu temple’s kecak dance is performed without instruments. Photo / 123rf
Balinese gong massage
There’s nothing better than a little pampering on holiday, but a handful of spas offer something more meaningful than a simple massage. Treatments that connect visitors to the local culture offer a unique way to experience Bali’s spiritual heart. Even better, you can do it lying down.
The Healing Village Spa at the Four Seasons Resort Bali at Jimbaran Bay combines Balinese spirituality with indigenous treatment techniques. Some use a Balinese gayung – a vessel used to splash water infused with seaweed and herbs – while others feature weteng massage, which uses a combination of herbal paste, binding and hot stones. One of the most unusual massages involves a 15-minute “sound bath” created by the boom of Balinese gongs, which emit deep, rich vibrations that make your insides quiver. It’s a strange yet deeply relaxing sensation.
Four Seasons Jimbaran Bay. Photo / Four Seasons Jimbaran Bay
Head for the hills
If you want to discover the heart and soul of Bali, book a tour or hire a car and driver and spend a day exploring the areas in and around Ubud.
On our most recent day trip, we visited sites such as Museum Puri Lukisan, the oldest art museum in Bali, filled with artistic treasures. Soft rain fell at Tirta Empul Temple as we stood at a respectful distance while fully clothed residents and pilgrims pressed their hands together and bowed under the holy spring water.
Our guide took us around the back of the temple to show us the water bubbling up through the ground as he explained the significance of the temple complex. We finished the tour at Goa Gajah, a temple famous for its intricately carved entrance, then explored the rest of the temple complex.
After a sweaty climb up stone steps, we walked through an archway to discover an elderly Balinese woman surrounded by canang sari (offerings). She motioned for us to bow our heads and bestowed a blessing, pressing a piece of rice to our foreheads as she chanted. Our offer of money was waved away with a smile.
Canang sari, the daily offering baskets seen throughout Bali, are handwoven and filled with flowers, incense and prayers. Photo / 123rf
Soul purification ritual
Even the popular Nusa Dua resort strip offers spiritual surprises for those who know where to find them. As sunrise dances on the waves at Sawangan Beach, guests from the Ritz-Carlton commence their spiritual journey with a devotion to the gods, followed by a tepung tawar ritual – a washing of the hands, feet, face and mouth with purified holy water – to cleanse the mind, body and soul. This beachside Hindu soul purification ritual conducted by a Balinese priest calls on Baruna, the god of the ocean, to bestow a blessing on travellers for a clean and fresh beginning. As the sun climbs higher into the sky, a piece of three-coloured string called benang tridatu is tied around our wrists. As we prepare for our flight home, we feel blessed in more ways than one.
A Balinese priest conducts a beachside Hindu soul purification ritual. Photo / Supplied
