An aerial view of Uga Chena Huts and the Indian Ocean. Photo / Uga Escapes
An aerial view of Uga Chena Huts and the Indian Ocean. Photo / Uga Escapes
A return trip to Sri Lanka confirms Sri Lanka is a country everyone should put on their travel wish list. With a five-minute read time, we’re positive Janet McMeekin will have you booking by the end.
And it’s little wonder. With palm-fringed, white sandy beaches, abundant jungles teeming with wildlife, and an abundance of historic temples and World Heritage Sites, this exceptionally diverse country certainly packs a punch.
My first night was spent at Uga Ulagalla, an extremely welcoming and charming traditional resort, located within 24 hectares of verdant grounds surrounding a beautifully-restored manor house, built in 1916.
Tearing myself away from my elegant, secluded villa (complete with private pool), early the next morning I hopped (albeit slightly bleary-eyed) into our air-conditioned minibus, eagerly anticipating revisiting one of Sri Lanka’s most popular attractions.
Guests at Uga Ulagalla can enjoy a Kamatha dining experience in a traditional setting. Photo / Uga Escapes
When I last ventured to this relatively small (think the size of Ireland), yet totally beguiling island nearly 30 years ago, one of my fondest memories was exploring Sigiriya; a towering rock formation that was well worth the 1200-step clamber.
Topped by the remains of an ancient fortress, Sigiriya dates back to the reign of King Kasyapa (477-495AD), who chose this site for his impressive capital.
After our 90-minute drive, I meandered through the tranquil, landscaped gardens before beginning the ascent to the magnificent summit-top ruins. Starting the monolith rock climb at 6am, to beat both the heat and the crowds, was one of many insider tips from our conscientious local guide, Kanchana, hand-picked for our show-stopper Sri Lankan adventure.
Sigiriya rock fortress. Photo / Uga Escapes
Drinking in the panoramic views of the lush jungle and far-reaching mountainous backdrop to the resounding strains of the Sri Lankan National Anthem was an incredible start to an action-packed week.
Having worked up a hearty appetite, when I returned to the boutique resort it was time to get hands-on during a cookery workshop with a difference.
Janet McMeekin getting hands-on during a cookery workshop at Uga Ulagalla’s solar-powered, organic farm and garden. Photo / Charlotte Rous, Charlotte Rous Communications
Accompanying the chef while he picked ingredients for our lunch in Ulagalla’s solar-powered, organic farm and garden, I inhaled the heady bouquet of fresh curry leaves, lemongrass and numerous herbs, before helping him to prepare curries and salads for a flavoursome feast for the senses.
As this visit to Sri Lanka coincided with Vesak – one of the most important festivals in the Buddhist calendar – it seemed particularly appropriate that my next port of call was Anuradhapura – just a 30-minute drive from Ulagalla.
In this ancient city, Buddhist pilgrims and tourists flock reverently to pay homage at shrines and relics, as well as the sacred Jaya Siri Maha Bodhi tree, planted in 245BC from a cutting of the Bo tree under which it is said the Buddha attained enlightenment.
Buddhist monks at Anuradhapura in Sri Lanka. Photo / Getty Images
At Uga’s resorts, sustainability and protecting wildlife are of utmost importance, and the next day began with an insightful and moving briefing at Ulagalla’s purpose-built Elephant Research Centre.
Dedicated and inspiring head naturalist Katharina Raaben’s passion for her vital work shone through, as she explained how Uga is helping to conserve and protect the elephant population in Sri Lanka, while also taking an active role in resolving the human/elephant conflict in the area.
Little did I realise that, coincidentally, just hours later, tears (of joy) would be rolling down my cheeks after witnessing the unforgettable sight of four trumpeting elephants playing gleefully in the nearby Nachchaduwa reservoir, a mere 10-minute drive from Ulagalla. This was a poignant highlight of our enlightening drive, taking in local villages, farmland and paddy fields to culminate in a surprise sundowner picnic.
The next day, I paddled through pretty pink and white lotus flowers and lilies, watching egrets and herons swoop effortlessly in and out of the water, during a peaceful kayak safari.
That evening, feeling energised by the kayak trip and cycle ride around the paths criss-crossing Ulagalla, I travelled back in time to savour a traditional Kamatha gourmet meal.
This lovingly-cooked feast, comprising 23 mouth-watering courses, was served in the atmospheric setting of a traditional clay house (complete with thatched roof), located on the edge of a working rice paddy field. Magical.
Preparing for the 23-course Kamatha gourmet feast. Photo / Uga Escapes
Switching up the pace, after a delicious farewell breakfast in Ulagalla’s superb Liya Wela Restaurant, four hours later I arrived in the island’s cosmopolitan, vibrant capital, Colombo. Within minutes, I stepped out of Uga Residence – a 180-year-old mansion house, converted into an eight-suite boutique hotel in the heart of the city – into buzzy, lantern-lined streets, where the Vesak festival was already in full swing.
The secluded Uga Residence, located in Sri Lanka’s capital, Colombo. Photo / Uga Escapes
It was an incredible privilege, and humbling, to be part of this colourful celebration, witnessing the procession alongside Sri Lankans dressed head-to-toe in traditional costumes, performing centuries-old dances with finesse, agility and pride.
Bidding farewell to this oasis in the city, the next morning it was time to head south and once more become fully immersed in the natural world.
Arriving at Uga’s all-inclusive Chena Huts, I could totally understand why I’d been warmly greeted with the words “Paradise is here”. The resort nestles deep within the jungle, just a 10-minute drive from Yala National Park, an almost 100,000-hectare nature reserve.
Chena Huts is a truly idyllic location, right on the shores of the Indian Ocean, bordered on one side by tropical jungle and on the other by a saline lake, where pretty painted storks wade gracefully in the shallows.
Each cabin at Uga Chena Huts has its own private pool. Photo / Uga Escapes
I was instantly impressed by the stylish, glazed reception area that links neatly via a neat wooden bridge to Basses restaurant, which boasts captivating Indian Ocean views and a tantalising menu. Elephants frequently wander down from the nearby forest to play in the surf at the shore – and who could blame them?
After a very hospitable welcome from the cheery Chena Huts team, I took a gentle stroll to my thatched-roof cabin, one of 18 discreetly tucked away within 2.8ha of lush, tropical grounds.
A thatched roof cabin at Uga Chena Huts. Photo / Uga Escapes
All the cosseting, secluded cabins have their own private deck and pool, the most comfortable beds, free-standing baths, plus indoor and outdoor showers. The sophisticated interiors, featuring tactile, solid wooden furniture, blend seamlessly, and very sympathetically, with the jungle surroundings.
The bedroom at one of the luxurious cabins at Uga Chena Huts. Photo / Uga Escapes
Having been introduced to Janith Jayarathna, one of the experienced and extremely enthusiastic rangers at Chena Huts, I couldn’t wait to leap into the customised jeep for a wildlife safari at Yala – Sri Lanka’s most famous national park.
The excitement in our sturdy vehicle was palpable as we made our way through the varying landscapes from forest to lagoons, scrub and grassy plains.
Within minutes, we’d spotted lolloping water buffalo grazing languidly with their young, watchful crocodiles, herds of Bambi-like spotted deer, cheeky grey langur monkeys, and the most photogenic Little Green Bee Eater birds with bright blue and green plumage hovering in the untamed, natural surroundings.
As we continued our safari, elephants passed nonchalantly by, virtually within touching distance. For me, the pièce de résistance had to be spotting a critically endangered sloth bear; mind you, catching a fleeting glimpse of a leopard came a close second.
Elephants at Yala National Park, near Uga Chena Huts. Photo / Uga Escapes
The last time I reluctantly left Sri Lanka, this teardrop gem with its incredibly endearing, friendly islanders stole a little piece of my heart.
It’s safe to say that when our Sri Lankan Airlines flight took off for the 10-hour direct flight to Heathrow, a similar experience occurred this time. So much so that I have already started planning my next trip to this fascinating island.
Checklist
SRI LANKA
GETTING THERE
Fly from Auckland to Colombo Bandaranaike International Airport (CMB) with one stopover with Singapore Airlines, Malaysia Airlines, Emirates and Qatar Airways.
